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Old 06-21-2012, 09:34 AM   #1
rod1210
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removing sway bar end links?

ok so im trying to remove my sway bar end links to install the new sway bar but it seems like its a littile rusted or maybe i just dont know how to take it off??

so any tips on how to take them off?

do i use the hex first then remove the nut or can i just remove the nut?!
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:39 AM   #2
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lots of heat and PB blaster, you may destroy your endlinks and rip the boot but what I did was vice grips and the wrench. I have new endlinks if you want to buy them from me $20.00. Might as well change them because I know your going to destroy them if they are really rusted.
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Old 06-21-2012, 09:40 AM   #3
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are you busy? wana help me change out my sway bars? you arent too far away
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:18 AM   #4
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You need an wrench and a hex key. You put the wrench around the nut and then the hex key inside. You hold the hex key still while you unloosen the nut.

If they're rusted to crap this maybe harder
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Old 06-21-2012, 10:30 AM   #5
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I can do it today. I got a class till 3. So give me a call. or PM you number so we can do this. Also I have a set of front AGX struts for sale too. Ill let you have them for a good price and Ill help you install. PM me.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:15 PM   #6
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Hit it with a hammer. That is what I do and if it doesn't change anything on the car at least I got to hit something with a big hammer
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:32 PM   #7
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Nicely put
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:37 PM   #8
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Funny, just did this on my wife's 2000 Corolla.

Same basic idea to taking them out, but I hope you have an easier time than me. They were rusted solid, and no possible way to hold the hex wrench well enough to get it loosened (I'd say it took well over 100 lb/ft of torque...against a tiny allen wrench?? not happening). Wound up starting to round out the hex bolt, and just decided since the end links were already crap (which is why I was removing them) I just used a Vise-Grip on them. Still not easy, had to work very hard to ever get a good enough bite on the bolt to get the nuts off. But...a few hours, some sweat, blood & a few breaks and they are both replaced. Just finished actually. But, no more clunking from the front end!

That being said, since you are removing to put in a new sway bar, you don't likely want to destroy your end links. So, I hope for your sake those stupid hex bolts aren't too rusty!
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:42 PM   #9
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I make rusted bolts my b1tch. Just takes a lot of sweat and groaning if you know what I mean
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Old 06-21-2012, 08:50 PM   #10
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What is this rust you speak of? I love my Texas car woot woot!
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:12 AM   #11
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Jesus we had to cut one off and the other one there was so much friction when the nut came off it was smoking.
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:36 AM   #12
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It was rust on the nut they were like frozen I'll put up some pics

The second one was the bottom half we cut off


Then we got the sway bar installed
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Old 06-22-2012, 09:44 AM   #13
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hacksaw
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:00 PM   #14
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ok so i dont want to start a new thread but i need a front sway bar endlink one of them is still good but the other one the hex stripped inside. so each endlink is $50 from my local auto parts store.

here is the question they have some on rock auto for like 13 bucks? and some few other ones. i just need one front one any advice ?
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:06 PM   #15
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Do both, one is bad the other is shortly bad as well.
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:11 PM   #16
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Well its not that they are bad its that when. I took it off I held the hex the wrong way and stripped it? Are the 13 doller rock auto ones reliable?
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:15 PM   #17
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Should be fine.
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:25 PM   #18
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what would be the significant difference in price quality or just name brand or something?
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Old 07-06-2012, 03:43 PM   #19
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are theses any good http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROCA-00-05-C...9d5727&vxp=mtr

might as well buy the set want them to match.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:02 PM   #20
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For the most part they're all the same. Nylon socket with a polished carbon steel ball.
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Old 07-06-2012, 04:58 PM   #21
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If you have a Torx set, you can try jamming one in there with a hammer. Worked for me.

Make sure you spray the threads thoroughly with PB Blaster and let it sit for 10-15 minutes.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:04 PM   #22
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Heat helps.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:35 PM   #23
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13 doller
or 1300 ponnies
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:28 PM   #24
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13 dahrer.
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:31 PM   #25
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im in the middle of changing all my end links, the fronts are done and the left rear is done too. what i did was use a handsaw to cut the olld links off as close as possible to the bolt so when i finished cutting it would simply slide right out, its worked for 6/8 bolts already. takes about 20 mins each bolt with a few breaks.
Probably unconventional, but it works!
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Old 07-06-2012, 10:48 PM   #26
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those front endlinks from a local auto parts store is like 47 bucks each you must be rolling in dough haha
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:31 AM   #27
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Old thread I know but just did them on ours the other day after getting tired of hearing that clunk sound on bumps at slow speeds. No way to remove the allen nut (seized) so I cut off the first link end, then realized it was way easier/faster to tear the boot and get a vice grip on the stud. Took 5-10 minutes apiece for the remaining 3 ends this way. Took a couple tries to make sure it was biting really good but wasn't too bad. Hopefully this helps anyone in the future.

Used Moog problem solver end links and if I ever need to remove them again the backside takes a 18mm wrench to hold while you bolt/unbolt the nut. Much better. And no more clunk too .
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Old 05-01-2016, 09:42 AM   #28
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If you heat the ball socket with a torch you can melt the plastic socket and use a pry bar or long screw driver and just push the link right off the ball. That works pretty well to get the link off and give a big thing to grab with a pair of vice grips. Then heat the nut a little and go to town cranking it off!
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 05-01-2016, 02:30 PM   #29
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If you heat the ball socket with a torch you can melt the plastic socket and use a pry bar or long screw driver and just push the link right off the ball. That works pretty well to get the link off and give a big thing to grab with a pair of vice grips. Then heat the nut a little and go to town cranking it off!
This.^^ Or if things are really frozen like mine were, cut them off with a whizzer. (air powered cut off wheel)
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Old 04-27-2018, 08:42 AM   #30
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Just wow lol....that Allen nut isn't seized lmao....use an Allen wrenches and a box end wrench. Use Allen wrenches to keep ball joint from spinning and loosen ith wrench lol....thanks for the good laugh lol...
God bless the guy using a hacksaw lol
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Old 04-27-2018, 06:08 PM   #31
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You're not familiar with road salt, are you kid?
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:13 AM   #32
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Okay. Buddy.......first of all I'm not abkid I'm 47 years old.....second....I've been racing this car for more than ten years and have rebuilt the suspensionore than once using hand tools.....and my celli was plenty rusted when I did it...some stuff had to be cut off... Had to buy a lot of new bolts......so yeah I know about rust....I also know you appear to be threatened by anyone else who maybe has a different view than you....that's cool dude...because I still have a great example of this car and I damn sure don't have these issues alot of you seem to have.......you can take what I say with a grain of salt...you can disagree...whatever.... but you can keep your negativity to yourself lol...
Have a nice day lol
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:16 AM   #33
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Anyone can guess why rusted stuff is so hard to remove?.........it's because when a steel bolt gets rusted or any part really.....because the actually makes the bolt thicker than it was...effectively "rust welding' it into place....my terminology..not a real term
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:45 AM   #34
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You seem to think you can just stuff an allen in the head of the stud and spin the nut right off by hand. That does not work on OEM stuff that's been on for a decade in road salt in the midwest. The inset hex will have rusted up to a circle with no sides so any allen wrench you hammer into it will just spin. I've done more end links on more cars than you know and very rarely do they come apart in the intended way. Most times the torch comes out and a few minutes with oxy/acet ends up with a hot nut zipped off with the air impact and vice grips grabbed onto the shank under the boot tightened down with another pair of vice grips.

Salt gets to these cars so bad up here, the rear suspension adjusting bolts totally seize into the bushing sleeves and there's no way to get more than maybe 1/2 degree of adjustment but you're binding the bushing up tight to get even that. It's not just a Celica or Toyota problem either, it affects all kinds of cars in salt.
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:56 AM   #35
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Yes exactly...stuff an Allen in there lol...use a smaller one if the holes no longer big enough....I also had to cut off the toe bolts and replace
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Old 04-29-2018, 07:57 AM   #36
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Or clamp a channel lock on the bolt behind the mounting flange and knock that nut off
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:48 AM   #37
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You're not getting it, there's not enough metal left in the inset hex for anything to bite into. Rust has turned the hex into a round hole, even when you hammer an allen in there it'll still slip and spin and if you try to heat it with the allen pounded in there then you ruin the heat treat on your tool and it rounds because it's been softened. I've tried with allen, I've even tried to hammer in Torx. Tool trucks don't like to warranty sockets with hammer marks on them.
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:43 AM   #38
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Then see second post about vice grips
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Old 04-29-2018, 02:24 PM   #39
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Which takes us full circle jerk back to my post about it. :lol:
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 05-01-2018, 04:33 PM   #40
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Then see second post about vice grips
See, but when you try all of that and you end up still unable to make anything move, it's the hacksaw. I've had to do it myself. Bitter faces these issues every day.

Georgia rust is a cakewalk compared to up here.
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Old 05-01-2018, 05:04 PM   #41
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I have air powered rotary abrasive hack saw and oxygen acetylene ferrous oxidizing hack saws at work. Also I have a BFPH (Big Fucking Pneumatic Hammer) that will usually snap alloy sway bar links with a couple pops thus making them easier to manipulate and get a grab onto. But as I mentioned, for a Toyota with OE or OE style plastic socket end links the easiest thing to do is to get the plastic cup out of the steel end of the link, then get the cup off the ball, then grab the ball end with vice grips, and go at it.
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no, don't even waste your time. if you want a honest sticker, at least get one that says "objects in mirror aren't really racing, so quit trying"...
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Old 05-11-2018, 06:42 AM   #42
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Yeah Georgia has little rust but as I said I have a northern car lol....I had serious rust....nothing that rusted off metal suspension parts but bolts aplenty....as I said....vice grips are your friends lol
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:07 PM   #43
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You will need a die grinder for the job. If you don’t have one of those. Some vice grips and a socket if it’s not stuck. If you have the die grinder I would just go right to that save some time and head aches.
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