How to remove engine from car (Smaay way) - NewCelica.org Forum
  
Install Guides Parts Catalog Gallery Tech Info

Go Back   NewCelica.org Forum > Celica Discussion > Repair & Maintenance

Repair & Maintenance Troubleshoot Your Problems Here.

Support NCO
Google
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-25-2010, 12:06 PM   #1
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
How to remove engine from car (Smaay way)

Ok let’s start with taking off the engine plastics and the hood. In this case we also have to remove the strut bar








Remove the battery


Take the wheels off and drain the engine and transmission oil




Next is take off the axle nut, this is an aftermarket nut, the OEM nut is a 30MM 12pt. make sure you take the detent out of the nut or you will tear up the threads.


Remove the (2) 19MM nuts holding the hub to the strut




Remove the ABS sensor if you have one, it’s a 10MM bolt




Check the cable, notice this one has been rubbed against by something


Pull the axle out of the hub, if its stuck, whack the axle with a dead blow hammer, it will pop out. Hold the axle as straight as possible and pull it towards you in a back and forth action. It will pop out.
*note: this is for the GT-S axles, the GT axles do not have an internal snap ring holding the CV together and it will come apart. It will need to be tried out of the transmission


Repeat for the passenger side, when you get ready to pull the axle out, you need to get under the car and remove the (2) 14MM bolts holding the axle to the support bearing




Pic of the passenger side axle removed


Next we will drain the coolant. Look down the passenger side of the radiator, you want to loosen this clamp and pull off the hose. Put a bucket underneath because coolant is going to come pouring out. This is a worm clamp, not the factory clamp






Notice the green coolant…VERY BAD! Toyota Red coolant should only be used!


I do not recommend this procedure for amateurs, but essentially I give the cooling system a “blowjob” blowing into the reservoir helps push out the coolant hopefully into your bucket, not all over the floor.


Next we remove the serpentine belt. This is the nut shaped part that you want to put leverage on.


This is the wrench on the belt tensioner


Doubling up on wrenches allows for more torque




Unfortunately this belt tensioner has been totally stripped so I had to cut the belt off, It was due for a changing anyway

With the coolant hopefully drained, we can remove the radiator. Start by removing the radiator support beam.






Remove the coolant reservoir.




Remove the intake, here a short ram is installed. Unplug any VSVs and the MAF sensor, loosen the clamp around the throttle body, and remove the hoses to the VSV and intake manifold.






Remove the hood latch, its held on by (3) 10MM bolts


The last bolt is way down low, it’s a 10MM bolt






Remove the drivers side radiator hose, here you can see what the OEM clamps look like


Unplug the (2) radiator fan plugs


Carefully pull radiator out of the engine bay




Next we will remove the ECU and the ECU box. Remove the (2) 10MM bolts on the cover.


Unplug the ECU connections and carefully lift out the ECU. The blue plug has a single 10MM bolt holding the ECU in, you have to remove that and pup the tab on the right side.




Push down on the rubber grommet and pull the ECU wires out of the box.






Remove the (3) 10MM bolts holding the box in place


Remove the battery tray, there are (2) 12MM nuts and (1) 12MM bolt holding it down.






Remove the EVAP line if you haven’t already done so.


Remove the breather line on the throttle body and unplug the DBW control.
*Note: this is on an 03+ GT-S, earlier models do not have DBW and will not have the electrical plug and the breather line will be on top of the throttle body


Remove the remaining breather lines from the intake manifold and valve cover.


Remove the (4) coils, they are secured by 10MM bolts.




Unplug the injectors, there are (4) of them.


Unplug the VVT OCV


Unplug the CAM position sensor


Unplug the Lift OCV and oil pressure sensor. Unbolt the ECU grounds that are bolted the Lift actuator


Unplug the water temp sensor


Remove the fuel rail, its secured by (2) 12MM bolts and a 10MM bolt on the head.




Unplug the fuel rail feed line, you have to pinch this connector and pull it off the hard line that runs back to the tank.


Off comes the rail




Remove the 10MM nut on the alternator, unplug the connection just below, and unplug the AC compressor.


There are also 2 connections between the alternator and intake manifold, they are for the crank position sensor and knock sensor. Unplug those too. Then lift and remove the wire harness out of the way. On the 03+ feed the harness through the runners.




Remove the bracket holding the alternator to the intake manifold




Remove the fasteners from the top of the intake manifold and large bolt underneath.








Remove the 12MM bolt holding the oil dipstick tube to the intake manifold


Carefully lift off the intake manifold


This is what you should see, look at all that orange silicone, which should not be there, it can cause more problems then help.


Unplug the knock sensor and engine oil pressure sensor


Get underneath the car and remove the starter connections. There is a single 12MM bolt and the plug next to it.


Remove the moon clips that hold the shifter cables in place.


Remove the shift cables from the linkage. There should be a cotter pin here not a micky mouse wire bent to hold it in place.


Reach back behind the tranny and unplug the reverse sensor and speed sensor.


Remove the harness clips from the engine, move the harness out of the way.




Remove any remaining coolant hoses




Looking through the driver’s side wheel well, remove the rear motor mount bolt. It’s a 17MM head


Remove the (2) bolts on top of the passenger motor mount.


Remove the (3) bolts holding the passenger motor mount to the body of the car. This poor bolt is stripped out 


Next we will remove the AC compressor, there are (3) total 12MM bolts. 2 on the bottom and 1 right behind the hard line. The 2 on the bottom are easy, the one behind the hard line requires a wrench, ratchet wrenches work best here.




Put a rag under the headlight and rest the compressor out of the way


Next step is the clutch slave cylinder. There are (2) 12MM bolts holding it on the tranny and (2) 14MM bolts holding it lower on the tranny. There might also be some clips holding it by 10MM bolts.




Unbolt the front motor mount and remove it. the long bolt is 14MM and there are (2) 14MM bolts holding it underneath the center beam.


Unbolt the header from the downpipe. It will help to spray some PB Blaster or WD40 on the bolts and threads to loosen things up.




Unbolt the Power Steering pump from the block, its held on by (2) 14MM bolts. There are (2) nuts that can be reached through the pulley.






Once bolts are removed, use a pry bar under the pump and move the pump away from the block.


Using engine removal tools, mount on engine and hook up engine lift.
12282-88600 is the funny looking one on the left
12281-88600 is the other,










Remove remaining bolts on the passenger motor mount, there are (2) 14MM nuts on the bottom that you have to get from under the car. Then remove passenger motor mount.














Remove the drivers side motor mount.






Remove the front bracket for the front motor mount


Carefully lift engine out of car.











DONE!
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!

Last edited by Smaay; 06-17-2015 at 09:47 PM..
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-25-2010, 12:51 PM   #2
Soon2beriding
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada,Quebec*Ottawa,On
Posts: 4,052
iTrader: (20)
u forgot the part when you removed the battery

nice how to

smaay way or the highway!
Soon2beriding is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 12:51 PM   #3
2KGTrd
Turbo 2zz
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 4,674
iTrader: (40)
can you make a diagram or explain how all the coolant lines to the drivers side of the head are supposed to go?
I just put my motor back in and started overheating, i think its because a couple lines were mixed up...
__________________
2KGTrd is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
 
Old 10-25-2010, 12:57 PM   #4
Soon2beriding
Banned
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Canada,Quebec*Ottawa,On
Posts: 4,052
iTrader: (20)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2KGTrd View Post
can you make a diagram or explain how all the coolant lines to the drivers side of the head are supposed to go?
I just put my motor back in and started overheating, i think its because a couple lines were mixed up...
could be because there's air in the system?
Soon2beriding is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 12:58 PM   #5
ridgerunnr
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 48
iTrader: (0)
Great write-up!
ridgerunnr is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 12:59 PM   #6
GSBoek
Daddy Daycare
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Willemstad, Curaçao
Posts: 20,259
iTrader: (7)


I chopped that heatshield to use it for my SRI.




Good writeup. The only thing I'd add is that removing the radiator is mostly a precautionary step, it doesn't hamper engine removal.
__________________
Links geboren, rechts getogen.


202 CREW ........................... No. 30002
GSBoek is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 01:12 PM   #7
Jsnake513
Celica Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,247
iTrader: (13)
sticky?! ...damn i wish this guy lived in the east coast
__________________
I Lift ThereFore I Am
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/5594/img02042201206211017.jpg
Jsnake513 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 01:14 PM   #8
xCaldazar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: California
Posts: 191
iTrader: (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
This is what you should see, look at all that orange silicone, which should not be there, it can cause more problems then help.
What is bad about that orange silicone? Is it factory installed?
__________________
xCaldazar is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 01:15 PM   #9
Curt705
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Fremont, Nebraska
Posts: 2,663
iTrader: (6)
Send a message via AIM to Curt705 Send a message via MSN to Curt705 Send a message via Yahoo to Curt705
Great writeup Smaay! Its about time somebody did one. The only thing I would say is that it is not completely necessary to remove the axle nut and pull the axle out of the hub...I just left it in the hub..and pulled the axle with the whole hub attached..
__________________
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
http://www.regneinstudios.com
Copies of my CD are $5, PM me if you want a copy

Drinks for the night: $40
Gas in the car: $30
Being on board: Priceless

Curt705 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 01:32 PM   #10
EMSRacerCeli03
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,235
iTrader: (18)
Send a message via MSN to EMSRacerCeli03
Quote:
Originally Posted by xCaldazar View Post
What is bad about that orange silicone? Is it factory installed?
1st missing the original metal gasket. 2 is that that orange silicone can get sucked up in the engine and may cause damage. And 3 without the oem gasket can cause leaks. Looks like that manifold was taken off before
__________________

Perform:2L stroker 13:1comp, knife-edge crank, MWR pulleys, cuircut worx gears, crower light rods, PPE 3.5 intake, DD IM, 440 lotus inj, 190 fuel pump, SUN groundwires, LM race P&P head, piper stg 3 cams, Upgraded valves/springs, TRD SS, PPE header+midpipe, 170F TS, SB cryo TZ clutch, Fidanza flywheel, PFC, ES motor mounts, Tein Coilovers

Hoping 260whp!!![/SIZE]
EMSRacerCeli03 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 01:34 PM   #11
GSBoek
Daddy Daycare
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Willemstad, Curaçao
Posts: 20,259
iTrader: (7)
Quote:
Originally Posted by xCaldazar View Post
What is bad about that orange silicone? Is it factory installed?
Just the same as you see it running over on the outside it does on the inside, obstructing flow from the intake manifold to the head. Orange silicone also has certain chemical properties that are detrimental for the O2 sensor.
__________________
Links geboren, rechts getogen.


202 CREW ........................... No. 30002
GSBoek is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 02:00 PM   #12
ImpulseRED
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 396
iTrader: (0)
i wish this were up when i toook my engine out the first time
__________________
why does everyone who races me think i have a v6?
ImpulseRED is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 04:27 PM   #13
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
no silicone is not OEM. the only place it should be there is on the oil pan. Im writing the engine disassembly tomorrow, that orange crap is everywhere.

I know you can do this without taking out the axles but its just what i do now. "Smaay Way"

Yes im going to sticky this.
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 04:47 PM   #14
ImpulseRED
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: dallas, texas
Posts: 396
iTrader: (0)
LET HIM DO HIS THING!!!!
__________________
why does everyone who races me think i have a v6?
ImpulseRED is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 06:09 PM   #15
ymboc
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 354
iTrader: (1)
Holy. Thank you for posting this. Well Done Sir!

Can't wait for the engine disassembly.
ymboc is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 06:47 PM   #16
Pool Playen Bob
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
Posts: 3,324
iTrader: (17)
Send a message via MSN to Pool Playen Bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
Notice the green coolant…VERY BAD! Toyota Red coolant should only be used!
can you explain why not? just curious thats all.
__________________

tj
Pool Playen Bob is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 07:09 PM   #17
Proximity
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,923
iTrader: (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
*note: this is for the GT-S axles, the GT axles do not have an internal snap ring holding the CV together and it will come apart. It will need to be tried out of the transmission
When I had to remove my driver's axle a while back, the CV boots always popped out when I pulled on it. Does this mean that my axles are GT axles? (I have a GT-S)
__________________
Proximity is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 07:24 PM   #18
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Proximity View Post
When I had to remove my driver's axle a while back, the CV boots always popped out when I pulled on it. Does this mean that my axles are GT axles? (I have a GT-S)
its possible that you do have GT axles, or an aftermarket. the OEM GT-S axle has a ring inside preventing the CV from coming apart. thats how you get the good hammering action and it pops out
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 07:30 PM   #19
Proximity
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,923
iTrader: (5)
It's probably aftermarket then. The axles were replaced before I bought the car. I ended up having to angle a screwdriver underneath against the axle and hammered it out.
__________________
Proximity is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 07:58 PM   #20
Speck102
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 9,037
iTrader: (194)
Send a message via ICQ to Speck102
That's almost exactly the way I do my engine pulls. I even put the A/C compressor on the headlight over a rag like that. Great minds think alike and all that I guess
__________________
2002 GMC SIERRA Diesel
Speck102 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 09:36 PM   #21
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pool Playen Bob View Post
can you explain why not? just curious thats all.
the chemicals in green coolant are hard on the componets. Even if the bottle says safe for toyota, Red is what you should use. There is a reason that Toyotas come with red coolant
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2010, 11:01 PM   #22
T3HKMAN
Work Done, Sexy Time.
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Fort Washington, MD
Posts: 2,835
iTrader: (6)
Send a message via AIM to T3HKMAN
Smaay, you forgot pose like a greased up pimp in front of your work for pics after you're finished. Great stuff for those that haven't done it .
__________________
2001 Toyota Celica GT mildly modded.
MECP Advanced Certified Technician: CEA170923
T3HKMAN is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 08:14 AM   #23
Boosted2.0
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15,564
iTrader: (19)
Blog Entries: 1
Nice write up. I do basically the same thing with a few variations.

1 - I don't pull the hub - I simply unbolt the 2 17mm bolts and one 17mm nut from the lower ball joint to the lower control arm and pop the control arm down and away. This way the camber settings don't change, and I also don't need to take the abs line or brake lines loose - simply popping that lower control arm gives enough range of motion to get the axles in and out.

2 - I set the A/C compressor up on the strut tower. Less chance of scratching the paint that way.

3 - Coolant is both poisonous and carcinogenic. But much more importantly is has a nasty aftertaste despite the sweet smell. I don't wrap my lips around the coolant bottle if I can avoid it - I simply let the vehicle drain longer and use a wide-mouth drain pan. You can also put a small hose on the coolant block drain (petcock) on the back of the engine block if you want the engine to drain more fully prior to popping the hoses and T stat.

4 - I purchased a specialty tool for serpentine belt tensioners that uses a ultra slimline 6 point socket instead of wrenches. As a result I don't strip out tensioners.

5 - I leave the harness on the engine. I simply pop up the 2 fusebox sections and disconnect the harness there and lay it back onto the engine - it is much quicker and the engine comes out more cleanly that way IMO.

6 - I don't remove the injector rail - I disconnect it at the quick disconnect back by the firewall.
__________________
Talk to us for all your performance needs!
We specialize in Motor builds, tuning, custom fabrication, high end / high HP engines, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, suspension, custom wiring, custom turbos, tuning, etc. We can get any part you want, usually for less than you would expect!

WWW.DDPerformanceResearch.com
Boosted2.0 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2010, 11:43 AM   #24
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0 View Post
2 - I set the A/C compressor up on the strut tower. Less chance of scratching the paint that way.
it can reach that far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0 View Post
6 - I don't remove the injector rail - I disconnect it at the quick disconnect back by the firewall.
the head was going to come off, gets things out of the way
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2010, 11:52 PM   #25
ronscelica
motor noob
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 263
iTrader: (0)
great write up... unfortunately the guy who rebuilt it last time wasnt the smartest guy... well at least its getting done right this time. Dude i always wear an in n out shirt when working on my **** XD. ill hit you up tomorrow dude. Thanks again!
__________________
\
2003 GTS: SOLD
2013 Subaru STI
2012 Ducati 848evo
ronscelica is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 02:01 AM   #26
Klint
Lurking06 Celica07 Join08
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 5,306
iTrader: (26)
Send a message via AIM to Klint Send a message via MSN to Klint Send a message via Yahoo to Klint
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this... awesome write up man!

As far as removing the belt and moving the tensioner to get the new belt on or off.. I had a problem with that because of the stupid bolt ... I kinda made my own method and it worked so easily.

This is most likely the easiest and fastest way of getting the belt off...

Time needed: 1-2 minutes to get the belt tension off.
People needed: 2 preferably.
Tool: wedge type hammer as shown (not sure of exact name)


Ok.. you tried the stupid stupid stupid hex bolt (that isnt actually a bolt) and you cant get your tension to budge right?.. Now your probably stripped it.. or its nearly stripped.. Surely it cant last more than a few belt\ changes.

Well, Here ya go.

1.First thing is to take the plastic thing off. to gain access to the belt area (duh)

2. Slide in the wedge type hammer in there with the flatter end facing towards the fire wall and have about half of the flat end rest on the frame and the other half on the bottom of the tensioner piston.




3. Now stand in the front of the car and pull down on the hammer so that you press the piston up. While your pulling down on the hammer , you cause the piston to go up and the belt will lose just a bit of tension and thats when your handy man\ woman can slip the belt off the alternator.

The pulling down of the hammer would be the same as pushing the wrench on the hex spot .. exept that you wont ever strip that hex thing , your just pushing it at a different spot!


*heres what it will look like if you just let the hammer go while its in place between the frame and piston*



__________________

2009 Kawasaki Ninja Special Edition :)
2005 Lotus Elise
Sports Pack :)
2001 Celica GT-S Sportshift Daily Dee =\
2000 TRD Greddy Celica GT-S 6 Spd Sold:2\25\12 :(
2001 TRD Celica GT-S Sportshift Sold: 2\22\10 :(


Lotus Specialist Technician

CLICK HERE to check out my Celica maintenance and guide videos.
Klint is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 02:23 PM   #27
GLERINK
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,572
iTrader: (1)
Send a message via AIM to GLERINK Send a message via MSN to GLERINK
good write up, will come in handy some day
__________________


AEM - Apexi - Brembo - BFG - Enkei - Fidanza - C one - Trial - Mahle - BC Racing Coilovers - Hotchkis - Monkey Wrench Racing - Beatrush - C-one - RMM - Vis Racing Sport
GLERINK is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2010, 06:35 PM   #28
scarface
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Alberta
Posts: 905
iTrader: (0)
Beauty. Wow that actually doesn't look too bad at all. I guess you'd use the same method to pull just the tranny as well?

Smaay what kind of hoist u using??
__________________

PPE RACE HEADER, PPE CAT PIPE, APEXI WS2 AXLEBACK, AEM 2.75" CAI W AEM DRYFLOW FILTER, 18X8 TSW THRUXTON WRAPPED W 225 40 ZR 18 FK 452 FALKENS, HOTCHKIS COMP SWAYS, TEIN S TECH SPRINGS, KJB ADJUSTABLE REAR ENDLINKS, INGALLS FAST CAMS...
scarface is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2010, 07:12 AM   #29
Gravel
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 1,943
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boosted2.0 View Post

4 - I purchased a specialty tool for serpentine belt tensioners that uses a ultra slimline 6 point socket instead of wrenches. As a result I don't strip out tensioners.
Any chance of a pic of it? IMHO getting the belt back on (especially with a supercharger) is the tricky bit. I'm currently using a 6-point socket (12 points eat those crappy lugs for breakfast) with a short (~14") 3/8" drive bar, but I'm a bit worried that the wiggle required to get the socket on in the first place is rounding the nut.
Gravel is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2010, 11:01 PM   #30
ronscelica
motor noob
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 263
iTrader: (0)
you could always go the ****ty way if you do strip it out. cut head of bolt off. drill and re-thread :/
__________________
\
2003 GTS: SOLD
2013 Subaru STI
2012 Ducati 848evo
ronscelica is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2010, 08:50 AM   #31
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
the belt tensioner isnt designed that way. its not really a bolt, its a bolt head shape. once its stripped its done, its cast with the tensioner
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2010, 11:30 AM   #32
Boosted2.0
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 15,564
iTrader: (19)
Blog Entries: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel View Post
Any chance of a pic of it? IMHO getting the belt back on (especially with a supercharger) is the tricky bit. I'm currently using a 6-point socket (12 points eat those crappy lugs for breakfast) with a short (~14") 3/8" drive bar, but I'm a bit worried that the wiggle required to get the socket on in the first place is rounding the nut.

Sure - this is the set I use:

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/sp...ine_belt_tool/
__________________
Talk to us for all your performance needs!
We specialize in Motor builds, tuning, custom fabrication, high end / high HP engines, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, suspension, custom wiring, custom turbos, tuning, etc. We can get any part you want, usually for less than you would expect!

WWW.DDPerformanceResearch.com
Boosted2.0 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2010, 12:54 PM   #33
1d0_2ZZ
New Mexico Representative
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 770
iTrader: (1)
This would have saved me some "oops" moments when i swapped out my motor lol.
__________________
Finding new sig
2000 Celica GTS - Fresh MWR 2ZZ & tranny > AEM cai > Kazuma > KYB > Hotchkis > BB > Molly
1d0_2ZZ is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2010, 03:14 AM   #34
GTSChick00
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: central NJ
Posts: 146
iTrader: (3)
i have 2 question first of all i am a girl working on my car the first time i just replaced the water pump on my 00 gts and where do i get the red coolant? and 2nd i diconnected the lower rad hose to drain my coolant but im scared the is still some in it...barely any drained and i know it should have alot more but my car did overheat so i dunno if it flushed out on the road or not but i want to be sure ..where is the petcock is it on the bottom of the radiator? and how do i get coolant out of there i know its a dumb question but i got this far on my own and figured id just ask thanks!

p.s good write up i am actually taking out a gt motor that i want to sell IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED out of my 2nd celica i bought w no title on sunday!
GTSChick00 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2010, 09:35 PM   #35
ronscelica
motor noob
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 263
iTrader: (0)
THanks for all your help man. Cant wait for instal pix. or the test drive after
__________________
\
2003 GTS: SOLD
2013 Subaru STI
2012 Ducati 848evo
ronscelica is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2011, 04:47 AM   #36
blacktsport
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: kent, UK
Posts: 823
iTrader: (0)
This thread has inspired me to give pulling my motor myself a go. I was worried I'd bitten off more than I could chew but this thread will help enormously. Thanks guys, Smaay, you're an absolute legend!
__________________
Rotrex Supercharged Celica - Sold

Sad times were had.
blacktsport is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #37
celicalove3
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 450
iTrader: (3)
Hey smaay, can you update the pictures?
__________________
celicalove3 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 07:02 AM   #38
jin602_05
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Buckeye, Arizona
Posts: 4,111
iTrader: (20)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smaay View Post
the GT axles do not have an internal snap ring holding the CV together and it will come apart. It will need to be tried out of the transmission
Can someone explain to me in detail exactly how to pull the axle off the tranny (driver side)? if it can't be pull out like the GTS.

Thank you
__________________
TeaM SlapAhoe

Boosted 2.0 Ported Header, Injen Cold Air Intake/Honeycomb mod, Catless, TRD Axle Back, 00-01 Redline conversion, Tanabe Front strut, Cusco Lower Tie bar, 3pt TRD rear strut, Ksport Coilover, 17x9 Varrostoen ES2, 03 Full interior conversion. FULL actionpack kit/wingless with BB Spoiler lip. SouthBend Stage 2 DD, Fidanza Light flywheel, TMW SS/with Soild cable bushing.
jin602_05 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 08:21 AM   #39
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
use a prybar between the transmission and the axle. find a good pivot spot. then have someone hold the axle straight and turn it while you try to pop it out with the bar
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2012, 10:36 AM   #40
jin602_05
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Buckeye, Arizona
Posts: 4,111
iTrader: (20)
Thank you sir, Ur steps on "how to" is great!
__________________
TeaM SlapAhoe

Boosted 2.0 Ported Header, Injen Cold Air Intake/Honeycomb mod, Catless, TRD Axle Back, 00-01 Redline conversion, Tanabe Front strut, Cusco Lower Tie bar, 3pt TRD rear strut, Ksport Coilover, 17x9 Varrostoen ES2, 03 Full interior conversion. FULL actionpack kit/wingless with BB Spoiler lip. SouthBend Stage 2 DD, Fidanza Light flywheel, TMW SS/with Soild cable bushing.
jin602_05 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2012, 11:32 AM   #41
KylesCelica
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 1
iTrader: (0)
Awesome wright up Smaay.
KylesCelica is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2012, 09:43 PM   #42
Gangularis
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Barberton, Ohio
Posts: 13
iTrader: (0)
I just wanted to thank the original poster for taking the extra time to take all of these pics and posting it on here for us all to see!! I just removed my 1zz-fe engine which has met death due to the oil consumption issue at 97k miles.. I alternated back and forth between using the car manual and your pics. They came in quite helpful!!


Here's the finished result:

Gangularis is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 09:26 AM   #43
celica19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lakeland, Florida
Posts: 119
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangularis View Post
I just wanted to thank the original poster for taking the extra time to take all of these pics and posting it on here for us all to see!! I just removed my 1zz-fe engine which has met death due to the oil consumption issue at 97k miles.. I alternated back and forth between using the car manual and your pics. They came in quite helpful!!

wait. what? 1zz has a oil issue at 97k? how do i prevent this issue on a 1zz with 47k miles? WHAT DO?

Last edited by Smaay; 11-24-2012 at 11:07 AM..
celica19 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 10:03 AM   #44
Xtra Big Kahuna
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Washington
Posts: 2,313
iTrader: (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by celica19 View Post
wait. what? 1zz has a oil issue at 97k? how do i prevent this issue on a 1zz with 47k miles? WHAT DO?
It all depends on what 1ZZ you have. Only the 2000-2002 have those issues.
__________________
Xtra Big Kahuna is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2012, 02:47 PM   #45
celica19
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Lakeland, Florida
Posts: 119
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtra Big Kahuna View Post
It all depends on what 1ZZ you have. Only the 2000-2002 have those issues.
thank god. '03 up in dis b*tch
celica19 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 08:44 AM   #46
dsly1
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 159
iTrader: (0)
Just about to take a crack at this. Wish me luck. First engine I've pulled. Thankfully I don't need to put one back in, just parting out
dsly1 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2013, 02:03 PM   #47
MCS1985
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 19
iTrader: (0)
I just started this engine swap project 3 weeks ago when the "new" 1zz engine arrived at my house. Thanks to Smaay, Boosted2.0, and this forum its going well.

I need to get some new axle nuts for replacement, anyone have some good suggestions on where to get these? Has anyone found any axle nuts that don't have detents but are still compatible with the GT axle? (In the event I have to take out the axle later I don't want to deal with those detents if I don't have to)
MCS1985 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2013, 08:41 PM   #48
Smaay
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 12,227
iTrader: (10)
new nuts dont have them. when i replace the axle nut, i dont pound in a new dent either. i put some blue locktite on the threads and call it a day
__________________
BOOST BOOST AND MORE BOOST!!!!!
Smaay is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 01:43 PM   #49
MCS1985
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 19
iTrader: (0)
I am just on the verge of getting the engine out of the car, everything has been going great thanks to Smaay and this guide.

I think I may have pulled too hard on the driver's side axle. A light brown fluid came out of the boot and the boot is out of the housing. It this something I can easily put back together? Or do I need to get a new axle?

Also is there any good way to remove the 12mm bolt behind the line on the AC Compressor, I just about stripped the head yesterday with a 12-point wrench. I was considering removing the alternator to get better access to the AC compressor, but the alternator has a 14mm bolt that is just as hard to get to.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, MCS
MCS1985 is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2013, 02:32 PM   #50
dentman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Ottawa Canada
Posts: 457
iTrader: (0)
The brown fluid is grease from the CV boot. You should repack it with fresh grease.
My tips:
1) To get the driver's side axle out, wrap a short, small diameter chain in behind the cv housing right at the transaxle. Bolt the chain ends together so it forms a loop. Slide a 5 lb. hammer into the chain loop, then twist the loop once around the big end of the hammer and around the back of cv housing of the axle. Pull the hammer along the axle with a couple of sharp tugs and the axle will pop out.
2) The passenger side axle on Canadian cars is a bear to get out as the bearing support halves rust together. Once you take the two bolts out, you may have to use torch heat on the bearing support, then use a flat chisel and hammer to split the halves and release the bearing and axle.
3) On the 2ZZ, if you break the belt tensioner wrench boss off (or can't get a 19mm wrench on it), you can use a long bar and a floor jack to pry up against the tensioner and release the belt. No wrench needed.
4) The two lines on the power steering pump are accessible if you want to unbolt them and leave the pump on the motor. Drain the lines first.
5) Unbolting the bottom of both the front and rear engine mounts makes them easier to move around and bind less when lifting out the motor.
6) A 3" wide ratchet strap can be used to lift the assembly out if you don't have the ducky factory lift parts. Just make sure it's placed properly and the ratchet is seated and locked.
Hope this helps.
Dentman
dentman is offline   View this Members' Photo Gallery Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
smaay

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Go Back   NewCelica.org Forum > Celica Discussion > Repair & Maintenance

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:37 PM.

vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.