Which fuse it???????

learning · Sep 13, 2006

gauges

2way said:
1) The WHT/GRN wire does not source +12V, but sinks to GND. If you wired it to source the gauges... you probably blew the transistor. The easy way to tell.. is if your speedo cluster still dims.. then the fuse is OK & the transistor for dimming outside of the speedo is toast. In order to use the dimming circuit WHT/GRN wire.... you must run +12V to the device you're trying to dim and run the GND of that device to the WHT/GRN wire. *NOTE: the dimming transistor is only rated @ 5A... so, it can be overloaded... especially with indiglo type devices.

1. where is this transistor located? i want to replace it.

2. this is my gauge, the wiring is on page 8. http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/701.pdf
Are you sure that the wiring you explained would work? i was connecting the white one of the gauges to the white w/green one of my car.
in your setup your saying that i should run a 12v to the device,....did u mean another one besides the one that is already in place (red cable in manual)?

3. ur saying that the white and green one sinks it to the ground? could you explain that please.

i'd really appreciate your input.

2way · Sep 13, 2006

learning said:
1. where is this transistor located? i want to replace it.

From before:

2way said:
It is fused by 7.5A PANEL 1 & 2 fuses, but it doesn't protect the transistor it blows in the combo meter:
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185353

learning said:
2. this is my gauge, the wiring is on page 8. http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/701.pdf
Are you sure that the wiring you explained would work? i was connecting the white one of the gauges to the white w/green one of my car.
in your setup your saying that i should run a 12v to the device,....did u mean another one besides the one that is already in place (red cable in manual)?

You won't be able to dim your gauge w/o changing, internally, the way it is wired. It is looking for a +12V source on the WHITE lead... one that comes active w/your parking lights. It's been a while.... but I seem to recall there is a fuse in the center console box that goes to +12V with parking lights... it might even be the previously mentioned TAIL fuse... I'd have to look it up.

learning said:
3. ur saying that the white and green one sinks it to the ground? could you explain that please.

That means that the transistor controls the dimming by controlling (varying)the electrical path to GND. For your gauge's lights to dim, as manufactured, you need something that "sources" (varies) +12V, vs. "sinking" to GND.

Sorry for the confusion. But, sinking & sourcing are common electronics jargon.

To learn more about MOSFETs see this: http://www.bcae1.com/tranfet.htm
the demo shown is roughly how the dimmer transistor is wired.... other than they have the normal POS & NEG of the bulb reversed (which doesn't effect the functionality). Notice that the transistor is between the bulb & GND. Not between +12V & the bulb.

SickCelica696 said:
He's all yours Bill.

You're gonna get yours

How'd I do?

learning · Sep 14, 2006

12v?

so for the white lead of my gauges couldnt i run another 12v connect it to a switch and illuminate them that way? if the white lead from the gauges is asking for a 12v.

thanks for you help

2way · Sep 14, 2006

learning said:
so for the white lead of my gauges couldnt i run another 12v connect it to a switch and illuminate them that way? if the white lead from the gauges is asking for a 12v.

Yes, or wire it to the 10A TAIL fuse in the center console fusebox. The TAIL fuse only gets power when the TAIL relay is activated.

learning · Sep 15, 2006

Ok. I've been reading the threads and posts that 2way referred me to carefully over and over again. The only thing that holds me back from trying it that way is that I don't think we are talking about the same "symptoms" here.

The scenarios that are described in those posts have different "symptoms," the seem to say that my console lights don't dim.

Everything on my car now works (I fixed that fuse problem of the clock, etc.).
The only thing that doesn't work is that white w/ green wire from the stock stereo plug that tapped into. When I say everything works, I mean (all my exterior lights, interior lights (all my console, lights, my dimming light DOES dim every light (a/c and fan too)). the only thing that doesn't is this wire that used to dim my head unit (my head unit is an alpine that has an automatic dim option and a manual dim option). I can still manually dim it, but the automatic option doesn't work anymore due to that wire. That white w/ green wire was working perfectly with my head unit until I tried to tap into the same spot that my head unit was using. (yes, I disconnected the negative from the battery). I know I blew something, but from the "symptoms" that were described so far, it doesn't seem like I have the same problem...

It seems like many of you are very familiar with our wiring system and are very experienced in this stuff, I appreciate all your input.

Again the wire that I was trying to hook up to that connection of my head unit and the white w/ green, was the WHITE wire mention on page 8 of this manual (it doesn't specify 12v, it just has a (+) sign where as it does specify it for the red wire of my gauge)

Thanks guys

learning · Sep 15, 2006

(page 35 of http://www.radphys.com/WIRING_DIAGRAM_FULL.pdf)

maybe this helps?

It looks like the one I tapped into is connector "R4" (I got this from the tech-electrical section). which goes into the "junction connector" labled "J6", which goes to "G3" the glove box light (I have to check if that light works), but also goes to the 7.5A Panel 1 (my fuses seem all fine), which goes to the Tail Relay (which is connected to the battery).

At this point I'm thinking my Tail Relay might be messed up.

1. What do you guys think, does my math add up?

2. How can I test the relay? (besides simply looking at it? It's not a fuse so it works a little differently)

2way · Sep 15, 2006

1.) No... because the Panel fuses are fed from the TAIL relay.. you would have NO lights if the relay were FUBAR.

2.) See above.

Umm... been here before... turn up the brightness on your dash lights... and then the HU will sense better. It may be that you moved the dimmer position and the voltage isn't enough for the HU to detect.

SickCelica696 · Sep 15, 2006

learning said:
2. How can I test the relay? (besides simply looking at it? It's not a fuse so it works a little differently)[/B]

It's a 4 pin relay. Its quite simple actually to test. You just need a ohmeter and a 9v battery and 2 jumper wires. You connnect the 9v to the switching leads and it should click, at this point you check the resistance across the other 2 terminals and it should go from "OL" to a reading of some sort.

learning · Sep 15, 2006

when i tested it, i had my dimmer on full and then brought it back down to 0, nothing changed.

you are right tho, if my relay was messed up my other lights wouldnt come up.

in my previous post i said that the white w/ green wire runs to the junction connector - J6 AND that leads also into the glove box light. but i said that hadn't checked yet if my glove box light worked.

well i checked it last nite, and it doesn't.

which leads me to think that:

1. the junction connector is messed up???? (i dont know how it would but maybe???).

2. (this is what i really think it is) in the diagram there is a pick of a fuse or relay in for the glove box light. I think that might be toast. What do u think? Where is it located??? (the fuse or relay)

2way · Sep 15, 2006

Voltmeter test of WHT/GRN wire @ HU.... w/lights on.

Same fuse as Cig Lighter & Clock lights... 7.5A PANEL 1

learning · Sep 15, 2006

I already have tested it for current. (w/ lights on and off)

my cig lighter and all other lights (except for the glove box light) work fine. they dim etc?

i have to tell you tho i dont know what u mean with HU.

(page 35 of http://www.radphys.com/WIRING_DIAGRAM_FULL.pdf)

whats the fuse/relay that is displayed as "glove box light sw"? is it a fuse or relay and where is it?

2way · Sep 15, 2006

learning said:
whats the fuse/relay that is displayed as "glove box light sw"? is it a fuse or relay and where is it?

+12V----> TAIL RELAY ----> 7.5A PANEL 1 Fuse ----> Glovebox door switch -----> Bulb ----> GND

learning said:
my cig lighter and all other lights (except for the glove box light) work fine. they dim etc?

Glovebox won't dim. Your transistor is fine, if cig light dims. I suspect you may have a blown glove bulb.

learning said:
i have to tell you tho i dont know what u mean with HU.

Head Unit.... your stereo

learning said:
I already have tested it for current. (w/ lights on and off)

Try voltage... not current... & post your test results. Test @ the stereo.. this will tell the story.

SickCelica696 said:
He's all yours Bill.

I'm counting... payback's a bitch :evil:

v3bahumut · Sep 15, 2006

opcorn:

2way · Sep 16, 2006

:eatpop:

learning · Sep 18, 2006

voltage is non existing.

glove box light was burned out (replaced it).

the only thing that is still messed up is the white w/ green wire (of the OEM stereo plug) that no one seems to know where it leads to (fuse).

i mean i dont get it. usually if a fuse is blown a bunch of things should go with it. I would think even with the transistor. but in this case its nothing else but a that wire???

does any still have the OEM stereo plug....maybe you could trace it, or use it for reference?

2way · Sep 19, 2006

learning said:
glove box light was burned out (replaced it).

the only thing that is still messed up is the white w/ green wire (of the OEM stereo plug) that no one seems to know where it leads to (fuse).

IT DOESN'T LEAD TO A FUSE!!!!!!!! It, eventually, goes to the Combo Meter... then GND. It is a path to GND... not a source voltage. If you want a source voltage (a voltage which goes POS when HL's are on - but will not vary with the dimmer)... then use the GRN wire.

I suspect that you have a broken wire or bad connection to your HU. Your problem is between Connector IM pin #16, on the Instrument Panel Junction box located on the Right Hand Instrument Panel Brace, and your Head Unit. The Instrument Panel Junction Box is located below the radio & to the right. Sort of on the back side of the Body ECU & Fusebox.

Head Unit ---> WHT/GRN ----> IM #16 ----> Combo Meter Transistor ------> GND

learning · Sep 20, 2006

2way said:
IT DOESN'T LEAD TO A FUSE!!!!!!!! It, eventually, goes to the Combo Meter... then GND. It is a path to GND... not a source voltage. If you want a source voltage (a voltage which goes POS when HL's are on - but will not vary with the dimmer)... then use the GRN wire.

1. so the green wire will give me a positive only when the HLs go on?

2way said:
I suspect that you have a broken wire or bad connection to your HU. Your problem is between Connector IM pin #16, on the Instrument Panel Junction box located on the Right Hand Instrument Panel Brace, and your Head Unit. The Instrument Panel Junction Box is located below the radio & to the right. Sort of on the back side of the Body ECU & Fusebox.

Head Unit ---> WHT/GRN ----> IM #16 ----> Combo Meter Transistor ------> GND

2. What is the IM#16?

3. How can I fix this?

2way · Sep 20, 2006

learning said:
1. so the green wire will give me a positive only when the HLs go on?

It should... easy enough to test.

learning said:
2. What is the IM#16?

Connector IM... pin #16 in that connector.

learning said:
3. How can I fix this?

Find the connector & pin... measure with voltmeter @ that point. BTW, with the dimmer on minimum (i.e. DARKEST), you should see a voltage approaching 12-14V on the WHT/GRN wire. So, measure @ the connector... if you have voltage there & not at the other end of the wire... you have a break in the wire.

learning · Sep 21, 2006

thanks

1.(on page 36 & 37) http://www.alpine-usa.com/images/products/documents/OM_CDA-9857.pdf
This is my head unit, the orange wire is the one I used with the white w/ green one, before it went bad. Anyways, the orange is asking for a positive right? It doesn't say it, but it seems that way.

2way said:
Connector IM... pin #16 in that connector.Find the connector & pin... measure with voltmeter @ that point. BTW, with the dimmer on minimum (i.e. DARKEST), you should see a voltage approaching 12-14V on the WHT/GRN wire. So, measure @ the connector... if you have voltage there & not at the other end of the wire... you have a break in the wire.

2. ok, but whats IM stand for? there is no IM connector in the diagrams.

thanks
:eslap:

2way · Sep 21, 2006

If I interpret this correctly:
This lead may be connected to the vehicle's instrument
cluster illumination lead. This will allow the backlighting of
the CDA-9857 to dim whenever the vehicle's lights are
turned on.
Then I'd say you probably want the GRN wire... & it dims to only one setting when active.

IM is the connector name/label/nomenclature.

IM one up from lower right corner.

Which fuse it???????

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