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rushnerd

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
From what I've read, the oil starvation issue is mostly limited to the track on racing tires. However, I would definitely like to reduce any risk I can.
Just wondering if anyone has used this product. It's going to be either this or the 1ZZ oil pan, Moroso is way overkill for this.
 
what is your application, what are you wanting to do with it?

You’re 2zz sump is fine for normal or ‘spirited’ driving. High G long right handers become an issue.

this sump is seemingly no different to the 1zz sump.

replace your water pump, hoses and radiator before changing sumps as a ‘just because’
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
what is your application, what are you wanting to do with it?

You’re 2zz sump is fine for normal or ‘spirited’ driving. High G long right handers become an issue.

this sump is seemingly no different to the 1zz sump.

replace your water pump, hoses and radiator before changing sumps as a ‘just because’
Just spirited driving.
I'm not aware of how common the issue is other than it gets brought up a lot in GTS talk. Of course I'd rather not do it, but the thought of oil starvation does makes me nervous.
 
this sump is seemingly no different to the 1zz sump.
The 1ZZ oil pan has a baffle plate that the 2ZZ doesn't. A lot of people swear that this makes the 1ZZ pan better, but Toyota specifically excluded it from the 2ZZ to help speed up the oil return to the sump. If anything, a 1ZZ pan is WORSE for us since it stifles the oil from doing it's job.

Just spirited driving.
I'm not aware of how common the issue is other than it gets brought up a lot in GTS talk. Of course I'd rather not do it, but the thought of oil starvation does makes me nervous.
After 6 years of driving my Celica like I robbed a bank, I have NEVER had an oil starvation issue that wasn't low oil levels. It's simply not an issue anybody has encountered on the street. Public roads just don't commonly allow you to hit the G-force necessary to starve the oil pump. You should be more worried about potential leaks, and money shifting. Both of these have killed many a 2ZZ.
 
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The 1ZZ oil pan has a baffle plate that the 2ZZ doesn't. A lot of people swear that this makes the 1ZZ pan better, but Toyota specifically excluded it from the 2ZZ to help speed up the oil return to the sump. If anything, a 1ZZ pan is WORSE for us since it stifles the oil from doing it's job.



After 6 years of driving my Celica like I robbed a bank, I have NEVER had an oil starvation issue that wasn't low oil levels. It's simply not an issue anybody has encountered on the street. Public roads just don't commonly allow you to hit the G-force necessary to starve the oil pump. You should be more worried about potential leaks, and money shifting. Both of these have killed many a 2ZZ.
This sorry is BS.

it was an interpretation of the Toyota sheet.
Toyota 2zz fitted 1/2 a windage tray right up on the main bearings, as opposed to the 1zz that is down just under the full mark of the sump.

the 1zz will still reduce the slosh quite effectively and will NOT stop the oil getting back into the sump.

the 2zz windage tray will scavenge adequate airborne oil as it’s supposed to, the 2zz windage tray is still left in place when using the 1zz sump.

the Moroso pan everyone raves about does have vertical trap door baffles (good) but still had the SAME Windage (baffle plate) tray as the 1zz so if the 1zz stopped oil getting back so does the Moroso. It does hold an additional 1 1/2 litres but 3 in 7 leak brand new.

now I run endurance events, we have over 60 hours (almost) straight 20-24 hours in 3 hour stints at 7500 rpm on the 1zz sumps. Bottom ends have been great.

if you MUST upgrade something, do the oil pump gears because you LHD car drivers have issues with money shifting and getting 2nd instead of 4th.
so oil pump or just the gears.
 
I don't want to get too in the weeds on a bunch of technicalities, but all I can say is that for a stock application, there's a very good reason the engineers removed the baffle for the 2ZZ pan. It simply wasn't returning oil to the sump fast enough for the performance they wanted. Of course, if you're building an engine for endurance racing something like the Moroso pan would be more fitting since it increases oil capacity. I can't speak for the results you've had using the 1ZZ pan, but I just wouldn't in good conscious tell people to go for it unless they know what they're doing.

I do agree on upgrading the oil pump/gears, regardless of pan. The stock gears will give out pretty easily with even a slight money shift.
 
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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. I think it's funny how the 2ZZ pan gets brought up in lists of serious issues to know about for the GTS and it's why I was scared of it in the first place. I guess it's nothing I really need to worry about after all. The car is an automatic so even in manual mode, money shifting shouldn't be happening.
 
The pan is for when you're exceeding 1 g in a corner. You'd have to be going VERY hard to hit that. The people who do pan swaps are the ones tracking the car, street applications typically don't need to worry about it.
 
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I don't want to get too in the weeds on a bunch of technicalities, but all I can say is that for a stock application, there's a very good reason the engineers removed the baffle for the 2ZZ pan. It simply wasn't returning oil to the sump fast enough for the performance they wanted.
So they replaced the pan with tray in the oil with a windage tray up on the main bearing web. This scavenged the spraying oil faster and removed it from the air returning it to the sump ‘faster’. It’s not about suggesting the plate is stopping the oil from returning. The Moroso is exactly the same in that regard with its tray.. we still use the windage tray in its place so effectively what is used is the same but less capacity and less failure leakage. Also no gates in the bottom. (Which would add a restriction to oil returning to the pick up but will trap more in that section. )
 
So they replaced the pan with tray in the oil with a windage tray up on the main bearing web. This scavenged the spraying oil faster and removed it from the air returning it to the sump ‘faster’. It’s not about suggesting the plate is stopping the oil from returning. The Moroso is exactly the same in that regard with its tray.. we still use the windage tray in its place so effectively what is used is the same but less capacity and less failure leakage. Also no gates in the bottom. (Which would add a restriction to oil returning to the pick up but will trap more in that section. )

I wish we could do something like this to our cars and see exactly what's going on in there.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Hah, Garage 54 is always completely insane.
 
Honestly I've been wondering the same thing and going back and forth about it. I've got some grip, never had any oiling issues but I'm sure I toss my car around enough that if I was in a sustained turn I could run into problems. I know it's a big issue with MR2's that swap to 2ZZ and are tracked. What did Lotus do to combat the issue?

There's also this other pan I've bumped into from time to time
 
From the reading I've done, it seems like for any stock/street application, it's best to just leave the regular 2ZZ pan since you're not very likely to exceed the 1 g it was designed for. Anything pushing that requires an upgraded pan, but it would have to be one that doesn't hinder the oil return to the sump which the 1ZZ pan does indeed do. I don't know much about the Moroso and BOE pans, but a cursory look seems to show that the edges of the windage tray have more vents for the oil to return through, so I'm guessing they both factor in the flaw of the 1ZZ pan? Hard to say without crazy see-through pan experimentation.
 
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There are also seeming to be 2 different 1zz sumps, one the same depth as the
and one a little taller. Application depending.
It’s always a good idea the dummy fit and , if required, space the pick up to a better position in the sump.

check out all images you can find of the sumps, the only differences in that windage tray plate is the more expensive ones also have vertical traps to enclose the pick up. which the 1zz doesn’t.

we also run the 1zz about 1/4” to 5//6” over the full mark.

personally I also do not run a catch can.

I believe it’s 1g in a right hand sweeper, tha means the oil is headed to the shallow part of the sump.

*restricts oil getting back “which it does” *
I’m interested in how that statement is backed up. From where?

The 1zz does not run a seperate windage tray, where the 2zz does in the below images.
The 2zz windage tray is there to act LIKE a crank scraper, to scavenge oil from the wind spraying , catch it and speed it’s return as liquid to the sump… in ADDITION to reducing or preventing slosh backing up to hit the crankshaft robbing the engine of power.

with the windage tray right up in its junk it will return oil faster, Not that the tray in the 1zz RESTRICTS the oil return. When we build these we don’t leave the upper windage tray off. Both are used. Both do different jobs.

damn I’ve deleted all my side by side photos of the sumps.


Image

Image
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thanks a lot guys. I didn't expect this much in-depth detail on the issue.
I just come from the MK3 Supra were toyota screwed up and you need to fix the problem yourself (much like the lift bolts in the Celica here.) So I'm used to having a major engine issue we all need to solve. I'm just glad doesn't seem to be the case this time around.

The engine vibrating the entire car/ reving high at idle sometimes/ and being a big of a slug biting onto the trottle are more of my concerns at the moment. I remember my Camry at only 73K miles needs it's idle intake just before the throttle flap cleaned out completely, so maybe there is something I can do there.

Also not sure how GTS cars normally are, but thing thing is loud as hell and vibrates a lot. Inspection didn't say any mounts were bad though.
 
You very likely need a new passenger side mount, mine was allowing torque steer pretty bad around 120k miles. Even with a front mount insert it idles better with the new mount than it ever did and it killed my torque steer.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 
Glad you asked about this. I was also considering going with the QRP pan - I can't justify a Moroso. If I ever track the car it will probably be few/far between, so probably not much more than some spirited driving.

As for the 1zz style baffle - MWR are pretty knowledgeable about the 2zz-ge. It seems hard to believe they'd recommend a 1zz style baffle if it was actually counterproductive. BUT...I am certainly not an expert.

As for mounts. The only issue I had with my previous GT-S was when I first got it (late 2007 with 89k miles) the front mount had no bolt. Other than that they were good at 216k when I got rid of it (summer 2021). That said I need to check the mounts on my current '02 GT-S. Sometimes I feel like maybe something is shifting occasionally under deceleration. In general my '02 feels worse than my '00. :cautious:
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Yeah, I have a feeling the inspection wasn't done very well. They didn't even notice that the driver door lock actuator is broken (I'm sure that will be cheap LOL, will have to take care of that certainly before I get an alarm installed.) It has to be the motor mounts from what I'm hearing here. Can't imagine that will be a super cheap fix.
 
Yeah, mine has bad actuators on both sides. Never had issues with those on my '00 (honestly, the ONLY issue I had with my '00 was the timing cover leak, and it wasn't bad). I'm assuming maybe these had a harder life due to the Florida heat. I bought actuators...but I've been lazy. Don't feel like tearing the door apart. So, I just use the key or lean over to the passenger side. Not a big deal!
 
*restricts oil getting back “which it does” *
I’m interested in how that statement is backed up. From where?
From the technical sheet you mentioned earlier "Development of the High Speed 2ZZ-GE Engine". The specific quote is as follows:

Image



As for the 1zz style baffle - MWR are pretty knowledgeable about the 2zz-ge. It seems hard to believe they'd recommend a 1zz style baffle if it was actually counterproductive. BUT...I am certainly not an expert.
Now I should clarify that I don't think the 1ZZ pan is counterproductive, rather that due to it's inherent design it will restrict the rate at which oil can return back into the pan. You only need to look at it to see why. As to weather this really matters all that much is hard to say and requires side-by-side testing, however I see no reason that any stock or street build would ever need a pan upgrade. Once you're tracking the car and going past 1G, then you'll need to account for that by figuring out a way to keep the oil around the pickup at high G. The integrated baffle of the 1ZZ pan would absolutely do this, at the cost of some oil return speed. Keep in mind slower oil return =/= not enough oil returning, and may not even negatively affect performance in a meaningful manner.

Toyota did not specify exactly how a faster oil return leads to higher performance, but imo it's likely just because the 2ZZ is so dependent on oil being circulated that they figured speeding up the return mattered more than keeping oil around the pickup past 1G. I actually wonder if just increasing oil capacity instead of adding a baffle would be more beneficial.
 
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