Get a diag scanner plugged on it and see what the sensors are reading.
2000 GTS Turbo
2000 GTS Turbo
00 celica gts
After some help with my 2000 gts, auto. Has a random check engine light, will go off when turned off and will come back on after driving a while. Smoke from exhaust at idle only when warm. Smells like fuel. Also hesitates, bogs from idle till about 3000 rpm. Still goes into lift fine and has power but more at high revs. From a standstill it hesitates then picks up revs and speed. Has had new coils, maf and plugs. Could it be 02 sensors?
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Won’t work on Oz cars. We had a proprietary setup. Looks like obd11 but won’t read.
Till you go through maf and throttle cleaning for a start.
i think there is only one O2 sensor on our exhaust,
i think there is only one O2 sensor on our exhaust,
Yeah mine won't seem to talk with an obd2 scannerWon’t work on Oz cars. We had a proprietary setup. Looks like obd11 but won’t read.
Is it not a usa or canadian market car?Yeah mine won't seem to talk with an obd2 scanner
2000 GTS Turbo
Aussies (OZ) got JDM versions if I remember correctly.
Now it runs fine. Smooth idle, has full power and doesn't bog, hesitate. Engine light still comes on though but only after running, driving for a good 20 25 mins
No. It's from AustraliaIs it not a usa or canadian market car?
2000 GTS Turbo
Our 2004 Celica GT has had a check engine light on for the last 80,000 miles. We heard a million fixes. We just put gas additive to "clean" injectors every 6 months and it does fine. Has similar symptoms.Now it runs fine. Smooth idle, has full power and doesn't bog, hesitate. Engine light still comes on though but only after running, driving for a good 20 25 mins
No. It's from Australia
You'll have to get the code. The JDM's might be able to flash the code on the CEL. I don't remember.
We checked with our local dealer who told me they probably couldn’t even scan and read it. Sounded either odd or they had no interest.
Same here. Still experiencing a wide open throttle bog, hesitation from idle and smells extremely rich but is running better.We checked with our local dealer who told me they probably couldn’t even scan and read it. Sounded either odd or they had no interest.
It shouldn’t be ‘smelling rich’ with a catalytic converter, that’s its job.
The ECU is factory set and cannot be adjusted.
If it has a piggyback ecu I think it is at fault, take it off and send it to me, I’ll send you my spare ecu.. oh oops it’s a mania one.
if you’ve carby cleaned the Throttle body , maf and intake then I’m at a loss over the interweb.
Get the car up to good operating temp and try to get an exhaust pipe temp before and after the cat converter, take it for a 15 min blast and check the temps again. Output should be higher than input, if it’s the same before and after then either you waited too long or the cat has been removed. Hotter before cat is a blocked cat,( symptoms would be opposite though, choking up high idle ok).
old car guy says bogging low or hesitant low.. new points and condenser required.
do you have access to another crank sensor? Might be worth a try but best pay someone hundreds to run it on a dyno for you.
The ECU is factory set and cannot be adjusted.
If it has a piggyback ecu I think it is at fault, take it off and send it to me, I’ll send you my spare ecu.. oh oops it’s a mania one.
if you’ve carby cleaned the Throttle body , maf and intake then I’m at a loss over the interweb.
Get the car up to good operating temp and try to get an exhaust pipe temp before and after the cat converter, take it for a 15 min blast and check the temps again. Output should be higher than input, if it’s the same before and after then either you waited too long or the cat has been removed. Hotter before cat is a blocked cat,( symptoms would be opposite though, choking up high idle ok).
old car guy says bogging low or hesitant low.. new points and condenser required.
do you have access to another crank sensor? Might be worth a try but best pay someone hundreds to run it on a dyno for you.
Just replaced the crank sensor. Had a spare anyway in my parts. My mate reckoned it could be the upstream 02 sensor.It shouldn’t be ‘smelling rich’ with a catalytic converter, that’s its job.
The ECU is factory set and cannot be adjusted.
If it has a piggyback ecu I think it is at fault, take it off and send it to me, I’ll send you my spare ecu.. oh oops it’s a mania one.
if you’ve carby cleaned the Throttle body , maf and intake then I’m at a loss over the interweb.
Get the car up to good operating temp and try to get an exhaust pipe temp before and after the cat converter, take it for a 15 min blast and check the temps again. Output should be higher than input, if it’s the same before and after then either you waited too long or the cat has been removed. Hotter before cat is a blocked cat,( symptoms would be opposite though, choking up high idle ok).
old car guy says bogging low or hesitant low.. new points and condenser required.
do you have access to another crank sensor? Might be worth a try but best pay someone hundreds to run it on a dyno for you.
Nah no piggyback. Just the factory ecuJust replaced the crank sensor. Had a spare anyway in my parts. My mate reckoned it could be the upstream 02 sensor.
I thought we only had the one O2 sensor.
they are cheaper than any of the other things you’ve changed.
but it sounds like it’s rich like something in the cold start circuit, does it still have the hose plumbing decal underneath the bonnet?
they are cheaper than any of the other things you’ve changed.
but it sounds like it’s rich like something in the cold start circuit, does it still have the hose plumbing decal underneath the bonnet?
Not sure how to individually respond to everyone's comments and suggestions. But thank-you all for your input, advice and wisdom. Replaced my oxygen sensor and did a reset of the ecu . Car is finally fixed. Runs and drives absolutely sweet. No boggling, no hesitation, no exhaust smoke, no CEL. Now just gotta change the front strutsI thought we only had the one O2 sensor.
they are cheaper than any of the other things you’ve changed.
but it sounds like it’s rich like something in the cold start circuit, does it still have the hose plumbing decal underneath the bonnet?
Like you said. Our cars must only have 1 o2 sensor. There's only 1 part listing for the oxygen sensor. Which is weird cause I'm pretty sure the US market ones have 2. StrangeNot sure how to individually respond to everyone's comments and suggestions. But thank-you all for your input, advice and wisdom. Replaced my oxygen sensor and did a reset of the ecu . Car is finally fixed. Runs and drives absolutely sweet. No boggling, no hesitation, no exhaust smoke, no CEL. Now just gotta change the front struts
Could have been a Cali requirement. No idea.
but the us one would read before and after cat, ours is only before.
i wrote something long ago that confused 2Way in regard to one vs two Oxygen sensors. But don’t know what it was anymore
but the us one would read before and after cat, ours is only before.
i wrote something long ago that confused 2Way in regard to one vs two Oxygen sensors. But don’t know what it was anymore
😆
You OZzies will see several differences vs. the USDM versions. LOL
Pretty sure you folks get the JDM versions or close to them.
Have fun with the struts.
You OZzies will see several differences vs. the USDM versions. LOL
Pretty sure you folks get the JDM versions or close to them.
Have fun with the struts.
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