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Discussion Starter #61
I'm still lusting after your door sills (scuff plates).
I will definitely keep a look out for you :)

Cars been driving much better with the newly reconditioned injectors. The car has much better response. It used to feel very sluggish when you go to accelerate, now it feels like its got much more pick up.

The bumper tail pipe section is no longer covered in unburnt fuel deposits haha


I managed to source a trd set of sideskirts, spoiler and rear lip. I also have a trd bumper but it requires extensive repairs and respraying to get it back upto a reasonable condition.

I will have the sideskirts, rear lip and spoiler sprayed next month (10th of January) which I am super excited.

I marked all the holes for the rear spoiler, for the wiring I used the centre of the spoiler wiring hole as a template and of all the spots there just so happened to be a reinforcement bar covering half of the hole. I can just manage to get the loom plug into the hole which is good.

The wiring for the spoiler spat also managed to come out of the hole (so it normally goes to the hatch and then out of the left hand side spoiler spat and into the centre piece of the spoiler.

Hoping to still fix the alignment of the steering wheel (crooked) and also fix the exhaust. The exhaust place ended up passing the exhaust through the 2 trailing arms so every time I hit a bump it hits grrr.
 

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Bummer about the body parts repairs and exhaust but it sounds like you're getting closer and closer to perfect each time you post.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Thanks Bitter :) Slowly and surely it will come together haha.

Well I had a good year or so break from working on the car and i'm confident of getting into it again.

I started off with spraying the cam cover. Had help from a friend which we sprayed in VHT engine enamel. I then wet sanded and polished it to remove a bit of orange peel.





I also got around to finally installing my bluetooth microphone for the kenwood headunit I have.



I also finally got around to sourcing the last bits of the bodykit (still missing front lip)




I had unfortunately lost one of the clips for the sideskirt and managed to find one from a MCV36R camry sportivo which is slightly shorter (on the left). i managed to bend the little end bit straight and they are roughly the same length which is good.



From the side.





On removal of my rear bumper that was sprayed when someone reversed into my car (it was parked) I found the reinforcement foam was not replaced and the bumper was never actually removed when it was sprayed, there was over spray as well as paint over dirt and the paint has started peeling under the lights (as the lights weren't removed either).




I did get the bodykit pieces back from the painter. They really look remarkable and I am so excited to be eventually putting them on the car.



 

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The foam tape holding the microphone may not stay in your Aussie heat, might need a rivet or epoxy.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
The foam tape holding the microphone may not stay in your Aussie heat, might need a rivet or epoxy.
Thats a good idea. Will definitely try epoxy or rivet.

I test fitted the bodykit after it is back from the respray shop




I also got around to polishing the headlights:




Here is the trd bumper I am hoping to get repaired too:
 

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That bumper looks rough, they hit something bigger than a Kangaroo.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
That bumper looks rough, they hit something bigger than a Kangaroo.
Yeah it sure does. It seemed to have been a pretty big accident. I've done a bit of work to try straighten it up to the state its in currently (as pictured)

There are some bad breaks in it but the scuffs definitely make it look worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Here are another 2 photos of the kit. I finally found a locally supplied gasket for the bodykit trims from Toyota. Will definitely share the link with everyone once I have it.

I know its a pretty standard car overall but for me its one of my biggest pride and joys.

Pics below are still only test fit. Hence the spoiler is sitting a bit out haha



 

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Glad to see you still keeping the work up and taking pride in your Celica, my Aussie 040 brother. She is looking nice. :thumbup:

Do you plan to go for the factory look by hooking up the TRD wing bake light and disabling the roof brake, and covering it with the factory cover? It does look cleaner that way, instead of having the ricer quad brake lights :chuckles:

If that is a genuine TRD/action package front then you will have your hands full repairing their factory material (things just don't wanna bond to it) they usually have to be plastic-welded. If it is aftermarket, it will be much easier.



Keep her clean mate.
 

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Hey trd_zzt231, I like the progress you are making on your Celica. Is your car lowered or is that stock height? I'm interested in getting the TD3000 body kit, but I'm not sure if it will go with the stock height of my GTS. Either way, your car looks super nice, man.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Glad to see you still keeping the work up and taking pride in your Celica, my Aussie 040 brother. She is looking nice. :thumbup:

Do you plan to go for the factory look by hooking up the TRD wing bake light and disabling the roof brake, and covering it with the factory cover? It does look cleaner that way, instead of having the ricer quad brake lights :chuckles:

If that is a genuine TRD/action package front then you will have your hands full repairing their factory material (things just don't wanna bond to it) they usually have to be plastic-welded. If it is aftermarket, it will be much easier.
Keep her clean mate.
Thanks heaps mate haha. Bit by bit it all seems to come together doesn't it?

Also thanks heaps for mentioning about the TRD Wing brake light. I never realised that there was actually a factory cover for the roof brake. I left it on the car when I went to take the trd spoiler off. I will most definitely have to go back at some stage to remove it. Do you know if its very difficult to remove? Lucky I don't have to do the repairs on the factory trd bumper haha. Will end up being a huge relief for me doh.

Hey trd_zzt231, I like the progress you are making on your Celica. Is your car lowered or is that stock height? I'm interested in getting the TD3000 body kit, but I'm not sure if it will go with the stock height of my GTS. Either way, your car looks super nice, man.
Hey mate. Thanks heaps :) Strangely enough my car is actually lowered on "Lows" but the springs don't seem to sit the same as other people using the same springs. They are branded "King Springs" which are very popular in Australia. The TD3000 bodykit would look very impressive indeed. Was there any concerns with not lowering your car for driveability?
 

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Thanks heaps mate haha. Bit by bit it all seems to come together doesn't it?

Also thanks heaps for mentioning about the TRD Wing brake light. I never realised that there was actually a factory cover for the roof brake. I left it on the car when I went to take the trd spoiler off. I will most definitely have to go back at some stage to remove it. Do you know if its very difficult to remove? Lucky I don't have to do the repairs on the factory trd bumper haha. Will end up being a huge relief for me doh.
Yes, it does. Bit by bit is how I got mine where she is today.

Actually, the roof brake light doesn't have to removed, but it does need to be unplugged because the same plug is used to power the brake light on your TRD wing which won't accommodate both at once. The TRD cover is meant to go right over the roof brake. But if you do want to remove it, it is quite easily done... there are a couple of nuts underneath when the boot/hatch is open.

My car came with the full action package from the factory and my roof light was still there under a cover even though I had the TRD wing. I would just unplug it, cover it if you can get the cover (hard to find), or cover it with something removable like plastidip or vinyl in case you want it back later. Then check for the extended wiring in the driver's side of the hatch. If it is present it will be easy... if not, you will have to run your own wiring down through the hollow with a coat hanger to get your wing brake light connected.

Its pretty simple though, I have done both on friends cars. If you have trouble, hit me up and I will lend a hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Oh nice as thanks you very much for that. I would definitely like to grab the cover at some stage and fit it up.



A Bit of unfortunate news. As I was disassembling the spoiler it appears the threaded stud that comes off the middle spoiler piece is spinning in the housing.

After much attempts I managed to separate the spoiler pieces but not without some damage as per below:







It appears as though some paint had got on the threads and as it was reassembled the paint dried like loctite. Even after the end piece came off I had quite a lot of trouble actually undoing the nut (since the metal piece above was still bolted to the side piece of the spoiler.

After much cleaning of the threads, the stud looks clean again.


My main issue at the moment is how I am going to attach the stud back into the hole and repair it. Both sides broke in removal. I also had to do a bit of work on the rear brake light as the top part of the tab was pushed up (which means it wouldn’t sit flush against the bottom of the spoiler. I heated the area up with the heat gun, then used a set of multi grips adjusted to the right gap and then allowed it to cool. It worked surprisingly well.




 

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You ought to be able to have a body shop plastic weld the nut back in there, but cut some shape on the big round head so when they melt the plastic back in around it there's something for the metal to grab onto.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
You ought to be able to have a body shop plastic weld the nut back in there, but cut some shape on the big round head so when they melt the plastic back in around it there's something for the metal to grab onto.
Thats a great idea. It appears the actual head does actually have some hex shape to it. I would say its how it got its strength in the first place, but since the head was actually spinning in this spot it would have rounded the inside piece smooth.
 

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Add a couple slots to the head so there's some meat to grab, probably could epoxy it yourself well enough but actual plastic weld would be ideal since there's some wind blowing on that thing and it would be just absolutely fucking terrible if it blew off on the highway, might injure a poor innocent wallaby.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Add a couple slots to the head so there's some meat to grab, probably could epoxy it yourself well enough but actual plastic weld would be ideal since there's some wind blowing on that thing and it would be just absolutely fucking terrible if it blew off on the highway, might injure a poor innocent wallaby.
Hahah yeah that ain't a bad idea at all. Thanks :)

This afternoon involved trying to thread the spoiler wires back into the side of the spoiler. This proved a little bit harder than I expected. My best attempt was to thread a nut onto the end of some sewing thread and then passing the nut through the hole. This worked really well. I then tied the wires to the sewing thread and pulled it through. The part I am most daunted by is trying to pass the wires through the hatch. I have a feeling this may be approached in the same method as the spoiler. Time will tell ��

*




I also started on replacing the double sided tape that was under the spoiler. The first step was to place a piece of paper over the bottom of the spoiler and then poke through the bolts so i can get a proper seating of the paper. I then made a rough template and then folded the edges of the paper backwards to finely shape the paper. This would then be transferred over a piece of adhesive foam. The second photo shows a test i did but the foam is a bit too small for the shape.



 

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They make something called a fish tape that's used to pull wires through places, it's a springy flat steel 'tape' that you push through, tie or tape your wires to, then pull back with the wires.



They also come made from other materials in different shapes for different applications, but honestly a wire coat hanger would probably work well enough too if it's long enough. I've pushed and pulled a few wires lately and I've had great luck with plain old insulated copper house wire of about 12 or 10 gauge thickness, it's flexible and easy to bend around corners.
 

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Yeah, I suggested wire or a coat hanger too... but that fish tape is a an interesting and fancier way of doing it, maybe I will pick some up for future use.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Bitter - Thats a great idea. I will have to see if I can find some at the local hardware shop.

Ghost Dragon - I must admit the wire technique did work on other things but due to the sharp curve of the trd spoiler it was very difficult to get it to curve around. The coat hanger unfortunately would get stuck and not bend around but it would be very helpful for getting the wire through the hatch I reckon.

The theory behind the nut and string technique is that it will always go on the direction of gravity, this way you can literally move the object around and the nut and thread will find its way.

Its especially useful in a spot where the nut can just fall (but needs to be small enough) as the string has little resistance in comparision to the nut weight.

I used invisible thread, which is suprisingly strong (strong enough to pull the subsequent wires through after it.

To tie the wire I normally just do several winds with the invisible tape around the wire and if there are 2 wires I swap directions half way, using the middle of the wires as a catch.
 
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