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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone I tried searching this and couldn't find much. I have an 02 gt-s with 133k miles, stock except an intake. My mpg since I got the car 3 months ago has been a consistent 17-20(if I'm lucky) mpg when I should be getting at least 23-24. One tank (14.3-14.6 at the pump for me) gets me like 260-280 if I'm lucky. People say they get at least 350 I've never gotten over 280. What should I do? I'm getting closer mileage to my last jeep commander v6 than a 4cyl sports coupe like this one. Thanks in advance, sorry if I failed to search well enough.
 

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Thats bad... In one tank i get at least 350 miles.

Change the air filter, use some fuel stabilizer, clean the maf and check for pending codes

Sounds like you bought it with a problem.
 

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All city stop and go driving? 20mpg is about right for that situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No had my brakes done already. And not city. To work I drive like 4-5 miles city to the highway then about 20 on the highway. It's not because I have a heavy gas foot either. I bought an extended warranty covering all internally lubricated engine parts. Would that include whatever is wrong here? I'm tight on cash so expensive repairs would be rough but so is filling up every 3 days or so. Very frustating, especially because I chose a valve timing w lift 4cyl for the gas mileage and performance. Would my best bet be visiting a mechanic?



Also I've gotten 170 miles out of 14.6 gallons but I think that was due to a horrible battery terminal and therefore an overworking alternator in cunjunction with whatever is f-ing my mileage. Thanks for the fast replies guys
 

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Dump that warranty, it'll never help you. If any 'internally lubricated' part of the engine does break you're on the hook for paying the bill to remove, disassemble, and inspect the old engine to determine if it's covered or not. Odds are any mechanical failure will be deemed your fault or not a covered part, the warranty won't pay out. The warranty also won't pay out for any diagnosis fee's or labor related to diagnosis. Read the fine print to see what's excluded, but when they say internally lubricated engine parts basically you'd have to have a connecting rod break cleanly in half without damaging anything else along the way...and that just does not happen. If there's any bearing damage, lack of maintenance receipts, etc they bounce you.

Had a woman with a warrnanty that covered her transmission, but her car came with two models of trans. One needed a fluid change every 30K, the other only at 100K. Ford dealer told her she didn't need a fluid change every 30, so she didn't. Trans took a shit, warranty bounced her because....she didn't have the fluid changed per schedule. Warranty bounced a woman with a bad timing chain because she lost 3 of her oil change receipts in a small house fire. Warranty covered control arms on a car, but not ball joints, but considered ball joints part of the control arm even thought they were press in style. They're horrible.
 

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Exactly. I used to work for a used car dealer. I've learned never finance through the dealer as the finance manager personally bumps up the interest rate, and never buy warranties.

I would start with cleaning the MAF. I clean mine every 3K because it really makes a difference.
 

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2way said:
Here's my latest version of MPG recommendations:


GT-S 6spd:

*upshift @ or below 3.3K RPM... early & often... I upshift as low as 2K RPM quite frequently. There are two GT-S RPM sweetspots for mpg 2.3K & 3.15K. It doesn't really lug till ya get down close to 1.2K RPM. Downshift late, 1.5k is about my usual limit at a steady speed (upshifting is different). 6th gear is the most efficient (slight overdrive)

*clean the Throttle Body/Intake manifold & IACV (your method of choice.. I just use carb cleaner)... every 15K. Seafoam will help higher mileage or city driven cars with cleaning tops of pistons.

*Air filter cleaned every 15K (replaced every 15K, if stock)

*MAF cleaned every 15K. CRC's MAF Sensor Cleaner preferred. If you have a SRI or CAI, verify your MAF reading @ idle to ensure that you don't need to BBmod your intake.

*oil/filter change every 2.5K miles (oil analysis wear #'s are very low & they predict a 200K+ engine life, I'm aiming for 300K - But, only made it to 180k:() From a crude extrapolation of my oil analyses, I don't recommend an oil change longer than 3,750 miles.

*use an API Energy Conserving 5W30 Oil (unless you are in a higher or lower than normal climate or spend alot of time in Lift)... a synthetic, if you can afford it. If not, consider a less expensive synthetic Blend. Over 100k, consider a high mileage oil. Try to stay w/one brand... while oil is oil... the additives & their quantities vary by manufacturer. My oil of choice has been Castrol Edge. It has done an excellent job @ keeping my engine clean.

*18" rims will hurt your economy... I'm using the standard +1 16" OEMS. Might use low rolling coefficient tires. Bigger rims are often heavier and that rotational mass will have an impact on your mpg.

*add fuel injector cleaner every 2.5K miles (after every oil change) I use the basic Walmart Tech brand.

*Redline MT90 tranny oil change (I had been doing every 15K.. but, I've lengthened to a more common 30K.)

*Mobil1 Synthetic transmission fluid in Power Steering. I drain & fill the reservoir @ ea. oil change. Not that it should impact mpg... I do use a Gatorback drive belt which has helped steering lag from belt slippage considerably.

*Use the undercarriage plastics or get a shield to reduce drag, improve engine cooling, and keep engine bay cleaner.

*Check tire inflation @ correct pressure (min. once a month). I go 2-8psi over for highway driving in Spring, Summer, & Fall. Placard pressure or slightly below in Winter. FYI, plus sized rims & tires usually need 0-3psi over placard.

*Proper wheel alignment done at least annually

*Rotate tires on a regular basis (I do every 5K)

*Use cruise control (it is usually better @ managing throttle than a human & a steady speed is more economical)

*The lower in the fuel tank you go, the better. When the bars go totally away... there is usually somewhere around 0.5-0.75gals fuel left, plenty for you to find a station. If you are currently refueling @ 2 bars.. go to refueling @ 1 bar (wait for the fuel light), unless you know you will need more fuel for your next trip. A fully loaded fuel tank adds almost 90lbs or so. If you aren't tracking MPG, aren't travelling a long distance,... or have limited funds...you can probably benefit by only filling to 1/2 tank.

*No junk in the trunk... the lighter, the better. I can see differences in MPG just carrying an extra 50lbs. Load placement also helps. I see better economy putting extra weight in the passenger seat than in the hatch area.

*a clean car doesn't hurt... waxed... even better (slight drag reduction)

*minimize fan & electrical usage. In the winter... try turning up the heat higher & turning off the fan (unless you are sitting still). This acomplishes a couple of things... the radiator fan will not run as often and you aren't using the heater fan.

*on the highway.. A/C might be more efficient than an open window (increases wind drag). If using A/C, set it all the way cold & only use as much fan as needed. On moderate days, leave windows closed & use fan on 1st or 2nd setting vs. an open window. If you must open a window (for smokers)cracking the sun/moonroof seems to work better/less drag than cracking a side window. NOTE: Thus far, my ScanGauge MPG readings don't support the A/C being more efficient theory. However, sometimes driver comfort is important. From experience, A/C use does seem more efficient on 6cyl. vehicles where it is less of an additional load than on a 4 cyl. I only take a 1-2 MPG highway loss on my Avalon, compared to a 2-4 MPG loss on the Celica, using the A/C.

*Avoid putting the HVAC in either of the two Defrost modes. The AC compressor runs in those modes.

*I use the stock OEM long life platinum Iridium plugs... replaced every 60K (I may try the IK's next time... to see if they help MPG @ all). Check gap (carefully). DENSO has come out w/a new Long Life Performance Plug the VK (Iridium Tough). I haven't tried it... but, it looks promising. I haven't tried the IKs.. but, they may provide a minimal mpg improvement.

*Use a top tier fuel (I use Shell 93 V-Power) Shell has long been known for better fuel economy. Chevron may provide better performance w/less economy... I'm not sure. A GT may see better MPGs w/89 Octane. Even if your using 87, I recommend a top tier fuel for a GT.

*Reduce idling (if you're @ a long light & back in the pack.... shut off your engine. I've stopped doing this due to possible wear on the VVT locking pin.

*Avoid jackrabbit starts & screeching stops.

* Avoid short trips. Plan your trips, go to the furthest destination first and then make the rest of the stops on the return. This will insure a warmed up engine and better economy.

*Coast whenever possible.... down hills... come out of gear. Come off the accelerator when a light changes to yellow (no sense hurrying to a redlight... & it may change by the time you get there - reducing idling). Take advantage of DFCO (Decel Fuel Cut Off = 0 fuel use, the tranny pushes the engine) by coming off the gas & stay in gear to slow down for off ramps & traffic lights. It cuts fuel use and saves on brakes (Not to be confused with downshifting for engine braking). You have to balance the use of DFCO vs. the distance you need to cover. A combination of DFCO to slow and coasting to reach the end of a segment is what I use on offramps. Stoplights are often DFCO only, depending on the visible distance to see a red light or a "stale" green. Try to gauge your coasting to minimize idling at the light. Often, the light will turn green before I reach it.

*keep your speed in check.

*use a light right foot... preferably under 1/4 throttle.... to as little as 5-10% throttle... I know it seems slow... but, if you upshift etc. you'd be surprised @ how easily you keep up with traffic ahead of you & how soon you make it into 6th gear.

*Optimum superhighway speed for a GT-S appears to be around 3120-3150 RPM/68 MPH. I seem to get better mpg @ 68MPH than I do @ 65MPH. From my testing, anything over 70MPH is going to reduce your mpg. There is another RPM sweetspot at around 2.3K. If you are below highway speeds, this is a good RPM to run in any gear. These sweetspots coincide w/torque dips on most GT-S dynos. Torque dips on a GT appear to occur around 3K and 3.8K-4K. The second one covers 68-78 MPH for a GT. So, I suggest trying 68-69MPH (3.8-3.85 RPM) for a GT as well.

Advanced techniques include Pulse & Glide, Driving w/Buffers, Driving w/o Brakes, Driving w/Load, drafting, engine off coasting, and more.

Driving style & proper maintenance are the biggest factors.


This is a pretty good article: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/06/14/AR2008061400127.html that helps explain some of the mental changes you need to make.

Keep in mind that, while I qualify as an "expert hypermiler", I am by no means as extreme as some.
^

My guess is you are running the defroster constantly. Which runs the AC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Nope I'm not and I've read all that. There is something wrong if I've gotten 13-15mpgs before while cruising which I have. And I just got the injen intake it's not my filter. And it's not the intake my gas was shitty before and still is after. I will clean the maf and have my spark plugs looked at. And that's bummy about the warranty, it's called alpha warranty services. I got it cuz it had an a rating from the bbb. Now I feel kinda dumb. Do these warranties do anything and can I do anything about the almost 3k I spent on it?
 

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Those and any aftermarket warranty is crap. If you bought from a dealer they by law have to provide a warranty depending on the state and car.

133K is nothing for a 2zz. If it was a 1zz that would be a different story..
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2way
Here's my latest version of MPG recommendations:


GT-S 6spd:

*upshift @ or below 3.3K RPM... early & often... I upshift as low as 2K RPM quite frequently. There are two GT-S RPM sweetspots for mpg 2.3K & 3.15K. It doesn't really lug till ya get down close to 1.2K RPM. Downshift late, 1.5k is about my usual limit at a steady speed (upshifting is different). 6th gear is the most efficient (slight overdrive)

*clean the Throttle Body/Intake manifold & IACV (your method of choice.. I just use carb cleaner)... every 15K. Seafoam will help higher mileage or city driven cars with cleaning tops of pistons.

*Air filter cleaned every 15K (replaced every 15K, if stock)

*MAF cleaned every 15K. CRC's MAF Sensor Cleaner preferred. If you have a SRI or CAI, verify your MAF reading @ idle to ensure that you don't need to BBmod your intake.

*oil/filter change every 2.5K miles (oil analysis wear #'s are very low & they predict a 200K+ engine life, I'm aiming for 300K - But, only made it to 180k) From a crude extrapolation of my oil analyses, I don't recommend an oil change longer than 3,750 miles.

*use an API Energy Conserving 5W30 Oil (unless you are in a higher or lower than normal climate or spend alot of time in Lift)... a synthetic, if you can afford it. If not, consider a less expensive synthetic Blend. Over 100k, consider a high mileage oil. Try to stay w/one brand... while oil is oil... the additives & their quantities vary by manufacturer. My oil of choice has been Castrol Edge. It has done an excellent job @ keeping my engine clean.

*18" rims will hurt your economy... I'm using the standard +1 16" OEMS. Might use low rolling coefficient tires. Bigger rims are often heavier and that rotational mass will have an impact on your mpg.

*add fuel injector cleaner every 2.5K miles (after every oil change) I use the basic Walmart Tech brand.

*Redline MT90 tranny oil change (I had been doing every 15K.. but, I've lengthened to a more common 30K.)

*Mobil1 Synthetic transmission fluid in Power Steering. I drain & fill the reservoir @ ea. oil change. Not that it should impact mpg... I do use a Gatorback drive belt which has helped steering lag from belt slippage considerably.

*Use the undercarriage plastics or get a shield to reduce drag, improve engine cooling, and keep engine bay cleaner.

*Check tire inflation @ correct pressure (min. once a month). I go 2-8psi over for highway driving in Spring, Summer, & Fall. Placard pressure or slightly below in Winter. FYI, plus sized rims & tires usually need 0-3psi over placard.

*Proper wheel alignment done at least annually

*Rotate tires on a regular basis (I do every 5K)

*Use cruise control (it is usually better @ managing throttle than a human & a steady speed is more economical)

*The lower in the fuel tank you go, the better. When the bars go totally away... there is usually somewhere around 0.5-0.75gals fuel left, plenty for you to find a station. If you are currently refueling @ 2 bars.. go to refueling @ 1 bar (wait for the fuel light), unless you know you will need more fuel for your next trip. A fully loaded fuel tank adds almost 90lbs or so. If you aren't tracking MPG, aren't travelling a long distance,... or have limited funds...you can probably benefit by only filling to 1/2 tank.

*No junk in the trunk... the lighter, the better. I can see differences in MPG just carrying an extra 50lbs. Load placement also helps. I see better economy putting extra weight in the passenger seat than in the hatch area.

*a clean car doesn't hurt... waxed... even better (slight drag reduction)

*minimize fan & electrical usage. In the winter... try turning up the heat higher & turning off the fan (unless you are sitting still). This acomplishes a couple of things... the radiator fan will not run as often and you aren't using the heater fan.

*on the highway.. A/C might be more efficient than an open window (increases wind drag). If using A/C, set it all the way cold & only use as much fan as needed. On moderate days, leave windows closed & use fan on 1st or 2nd setting vs. an open window. If you must open a window (for smokers)cracking the sun/moonroof seems to work better/less drag than cracking a side window. NOTE: Thus far, my ScanGauge MPG readings don't support the A/C being more efficient theory. However, sometimes driver comfort is important. From experience, A/C use does seem more efficient on 6cyl. vehicles where it is less of an additional load than on a 4 cyl. I only take a 1-2 MPG highway loss on my Avalon, compared to a 2-4 MPG loss on the Celica, using the A/C.

*Avoid putting the HVAC in either of the two Defrost modes. The AC compressor runs in those modes.

*I use the stock OEM long life platinum Iridium plugs... replaced every 60K (I may try the IK's next time... to see if they help MPG @ all). Check gap (carefully). DENSO has come out w/a new Long Life Performance Plug the VK (Iridium Tough). I haven't tried it... but, it looks promising. I haven't tried the IKs.. but, they may provide a minimal mpg improvement.

*Use a top tier fuel (I use Shell 93 V-Power) Shell has long been known for better fuel economy. Chevron may provide better performance w/less economy... I'm not sure. A GT may see better MPGs w/89 Octane. Even if your using 87, I recommend a top tier fuel for a GT.

*Reduce idling (if you're @ a long light & back in the pack.... shut off your engine. I've stopped doing this due to possible wear on the VVT locking pin.

*Avoid jackrabbit starts & screeching stops.

* Avoid short trips. Plan your trips, go to the furthest destination first and then make the rest of the stops on the return. This will insure a warmed up engine and better economy.

*Coast whenever possible.... down hills... come out of gear. Come off the accelerator when a light changes to yellow (no sense hurrying to a redlight... & it may change by the time you get there - reducing idling). Take advantage of DFCO (Decel Fuel Cut Off = 0 fuel use, the tranny pushes the engine) by coming off the gas & stay in gear to slow down for off ramps & traffic lights. It cuts fuel use and saves on brakes (Not to be confused with downshifting for engine braking). You have to balance the use of DFCO vs. the distance you need to cover. A combination of DFCO to slow and coasting to reach the end of a segment is what I use on offramps. Stoplights are often DFCO only, depending on the visible distance to see a red light or a "stale" green. Try to gauge your coasting to minimize idling at the light. Often, the light will turn green before I reach it.

*keep your speed in check.

*use a light right foot... preferably under 1/4 throttle.... to as little as 5-10% throttle... I know it seems slow... but, if you upshift etc. you'd be surprised @ how easily you keep up with traffic ahead of you & how soon you make it into 6th gear.

*Optimum superhighway speed for a GT-S appears to be around 3120-3150 RPM/68 MPH. I seem to get better mpg @ 68MPH than I do @ 65MPH. From my testing, anything over 70MPH is going to reduce your mpg. There is another RPM sweetspot at around 2.3K. If you are below highway speeds, this is a good RPM to run in any gear. These sweetspots coincide w/torque dips on most GT-S dynos. Torque dips on a GT appear to occur around 3K and 3.8K-4K. The second one covers 68-78 MPH for a GT. So, I suggest trying 68-69MPH (3.8-3.85 RPM) for a GT as well.

Advanced techniques include Pulse & Glide, Driving w/Buffers, Driving w/o Brakes, Driving w/Load, drafting, engine off coasting, and more.

Driving style & proper maintenance are the biggest factors.


This is a pretty good article: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn...061400127.html that helps explain some of the mental changes you need to make.

Keep in mind that, while I qualify as an "expert hypermiler", I am by no means as extreme as some.
You spend way2 much time with maintenance of your car :)
 
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