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2ZZ-GE tore apart my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel.

9470 Views 16 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Smaay
2 days ago i finished my 2ZZ-GE swap, and curious thing happened as i was shifting from 3rd to 4th:

Everything went smooth with the shift, 4th engaged well and second and a half after the clutch was fully released it suddenly tried (as if i shifted Again) to overrev as if it went from 4th straight to 1st. The same millisecond it started raising the revs i kicked the clutch all the way down and released the car from gear (put it in neutral). I kicked the clutch back to the floor so fast that even the nose didn't dive into the road as if would've done if it locked in lower gear. The engine stopped and i heard pieces flying. I parked on the side of the road and tried to re-start the car. The engine wouldn't ignite. It turned like the battery was trying to die.

The following day we disassembled the car and found that a piece the size of a quite big coin was missing from the gearbox housing.

Piece of the clutch cover shattered, went straight trough the clutch disc, tore a hole in the gearbox housing and the flywheel cut trough all the bolts holding it to the crank shaft. The whole eight of them! When we separated the gear box from the engine the flywheel, clutch and the clutch cover were all in the bottom of the housing like a big salad. That's why (i guess) it didn't want to ignite the engine, since the starter didn't have full or any contact with the flywheel and didn't manage to spin the engine trough it, since it tore the bolts holding it apart.

My question is:
My reaction was astonishingly quick. I am almost 100% sure the engine didn't over-rev itself. from what it looks like the problem should be only in the flywheel-clutch department. The engine turns by hand like it should, no weird noises while turning it by hand.

Please guys, tell me there shouldn't be anything else damaged... And for Christ's sake, how the hell did that happen?!
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probably hit 2nd. clutch slipped until it locked up.

i miss shifted in my celica with 60k on the clock. really bad. like top of 3rd. and limped it a good 5 miles or so before she wouldn't go anymore. it snapped my flywheel bolts off the crank. pitted and gouged the crank a bit. wallowed out my flywheel. the bolt holes were wallowed at the very last 2 threads on 2-3 of them. ran a tap through all the holes. slapped in a new flywheel, got some arp studs.

the flywheel actually rubbed and ate partially through my input shaft where the throw out bearing rides. and chewed up my bell housing. i was able to use belzona on the shaft and sand it smooth. found oil coming from my crank shaft bolt holes. (its a straight through design to the crank shaft caps.) replaced my rear main seal due to all the aluminum shavings from the the carnage in the bell housing.

basically i got away lucky with stock bolts. if i had arp studs they would not have broken and my head would have been toast. probably a piston or two. car has over 25k more miles since that accident and still runs like a dream. traded it in for what i have now and keep in contact with the kid who bought it. answer any questions he my have with it.

this is what happened to mine.

now my little brother picked up a celica with a blown engine in it and we did a swap on that. well a replacement 1zz for a 1zz and we had to replace the flywheel for the old one. my step dad was the guy incharge of it. i was just the kid with the tools and the know how from doing mine a few months before hand. and he was talking to our local toyota dealer getting parts and asked about the flywheel bolts. there 1zz-2zz guy says he always reuses them unless they appear to be stretched.

and his stock ones didn't stretch so he said just put some sealant to keep the oil in the crank and torque them to spec. i still wanted arp in there but it wasn't my money to be doing it. so they re-used the factory ones. and have a solid 15k on that engine. still no problems what so ever. if it ever gets miss shifted severely then yea, i'll bet they'll snap. but now there broken... arp is a good replacement set and cheaper then oem.

but thats me and my story. :)
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