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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
ok here is my second oil test take a look change oil at 7400miles iterval this time around



 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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said I changed my plugs at 55K and I only have 85K miles now on the engine
30K would be time to change IKs

Get a VOA on that Amsoil... or see if there are some on BITOG. Part of the high silicon is probably part of their additive package for seal conditioning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'll be hitting 100K miles in about 8K miles I'll change plugs then.
so far I have no idea why Blackstone thought I have coolant in my engine. second test didnt show much of coolant in the oil. So Potassium went down to 13 from 22
I haven't done anything since. Just change my oil and filter.
Blackstone is recomending me to go above 7500 mile interval oil change I dont know if I risk it. Looks like wear is consistent and TBN is still stable.
I am also using Purolator Pure One oil filter PL14477 maybe thats a good filter as well.
AEM Dryflow air filter on my CAI as well.
 

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Blackstone is recomending me to go above 7500 mile interval oil change I dont know if I risk it.
They will tell you that you can increase so long as they don't see anything indicating a problem in the sample. They assume that you are looking to maximize your oil change interval.

Your Iron seems slightly above. It might be because there's no moly in the Amsoil. Calcium looks good and is good for the 2ZZ, its usually detergent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
well my last oil change was my last batch of Amsoil 0w30
so I ran out of this oil. I dont know which oil to get.
it was a good investment because now the same oil is bit more pricey that it used to be
so I have 0w30 in my engine now and I am around 1300 miles on it. So I'll go 9K miles on it and do another oil analysis to findout whats up. I drive a lot now around ~130 miles a day mostly highway miles.

What's that Moly you talking about? Molybdenum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
also why is the oil viscosity so much lower this time?
and what the heck is insoluble %?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
interesting thanks
I didnt look at blckstone site
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
After this last test that I will be doing. I'll do my last long interval change and then I think I am going to stick w/5k miles changes and buy a cheaper synthetic oil.
I think its not worht going for longer interval changes on the 2zz what do you think?

BTW if I go for 5K miles changes whats a good synthetic oil to buy then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
cool. I just looked at castrol website
they even have 0w30 5w30 and 0w40 grade oils
wow.
I'll have to look at this I am sure it cheaper that Amsoil SSO oil.
 

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Yes much cheaper. I used to run Amsoil SSO in my old car because it was forced induction and I felt it gave me a little extra peace of mind. I was paying around $10/QT for the SSO and I got the EDGE at Wal-Mart in the 5qt. jug for something like $24
 

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I think 2WAY has proven out the value of the Castrol synthetic changed at short intervals beyond a shadow of a doubt with his oil analysis testing in the last couple of years.
 

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:D
Those tests were on Syntec. But, I have no reason to believe that the Edge would be less effective. If anything, I think the Edge viscosity holds up better. I really should do a couple of samples. Its been a while;)

From what I was seeing on the Syntec, I wouldn't go beyond a 4,750 mile interval. But, 5K on Edge is probably just fine. I'm still doing a 2.5K interval, even w/Edge. I like to keep the insoluble level really low and the OCVs nice & clean.
 

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I am going to try Edge on my next oil change. I am still trying to decide what to use for my tranny though. I was going to use MT-90, but found the thread where some of you said you didn't like it that well for shifter smoothness. I then saw you recommended "the cocktail" mix and so I went to the nasioc forum and started reading on that.

That thread has a lot of varying opinions on it. As of now I was just going to pick up some Valvoline synthetic as most agreed it was within trans oil specs and pretty good. I like the fact that I can grab some locally as well.

You are using MT-90 correct 2 way? Do you like it a lot better than the standard dino oils?
 

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You are using MT-90 correct 2 way? Do you like it a lot better than the standard dino oils?
Yes & yes. If you go to MT-90, I'd pick up like 8 or 9qts and plan on doing some short interval changes (like 15K) to clean things out. It has steadily improved on each of my changes. I haven't had it tested. But, at a 30K interval (now), it looks just fine coming out (I just changed it not long ago).

I don't think you'll like any of the Valvoline oils. They are all GL-5 rated, w/limited slip modifiers and I suspect that they don't have a good coefficient of friction for shifting.
 

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I found this while googling.

"I decided after writing Redline and from the responses, to use the Redline 75w-90ns instead of the MT-90.This is the reasoning; MT-90 has friction modifiers for limited-slip transaxles which makes the gear oil more viscious and in the process harder for syncros to match speed.The 75w-90ns not having these modifiers would be a better choice for our MZ3s in that the syncros will be able to match speeds quicker especially in low temps.....I've been using the 75w-90ns grade for approx 2 years and this past winter I had no problems with hard shifting at all, even starting her up in -30C temps.

For the Speed guys, I would suggest trying the basic 75w-90 over the MT-90 for the same reason basically as the standard 75w-90 still has limited slip modifiers, but less so then the Mt-90, and according to Redline this should provide better low temp operation."



I also read there is a castrol synthetic gear oil that may be available locally. Would that be a good one to use? What would be your other suggestion besides the MT-90, as it is pretty spendy stuff to be changing out too often? All the online sites charge you $10 + a usually high shipping charge.
 

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This is the reasoning; MT-90 has friction modifiers for limited-slip transaxles which makes the gear oil more viscious and in the process harder for syncros to match speed.The 75w-90ns not having these modifiers
They sort of have that backwards. While the 75W-90NS does not have the friction modifiers. The NS is the one that is designed for non slip LSD applications. The MT-90 has friction modifiers for proper synchro engagement. MT-90 75W-90 is a GL-4, 75W-90NS is a GL-5 oil. See: http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/tech/MTL and MT-90 Tech Info.pdf

I'm guessing here. But, Pennzoil Synthetic SAE 75W-90 GL-4 seems to be a decent alternative that might be available locally. But, there probably isn't much price difference to MT-90. You're usually talking $7-10 a qt. for synthetics.
I also read there is a castrol synthetic gear oil that may be available locally. Would that be a good one to use?
Probably not. It is also a GL-5/MT-1. While our manual trannies are spec'd for GL-4/GL-5. They seem to like the GL-4 better. There's also more of a chance of problems with synchro deteriotion with the additives in some(not all) GL-5's. Also, MT-90 is specifically designed for transmissions vs. a general use gear oil.
Redline Oil said:
Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gear oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half. The extreme pressure requirements of spur gears and helical gears found in transmissions are not nearly as great as found in rear-wheel drive differentials. A GL-4 lubricant provides adequate protection for most manual transmissions, unless a unique design consideration requires the extra protection of a GL-5.
What would be your other suggestion besides the MT-90, as it is pretty spendy stuff to be changing out too often? All the online sites charge you $10 + a usually high shipping charge.
Approximately $30-$40 every 30K, if you go short interval (other than the initial changeover).... every 60K if you go a standard interval. I don't see that as a whole lot of $, given the time frames.
 
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