[2way]

Bearings, bushings, valve guides?

Iron could also come from the crank.

I wouldn't think the aluminum is coming from there

But, can come from the pistons. Although, I seem to recall that they have a tin coating.

From what I gather Toyota oil has a boat load of Moly in it

I never really looked into it. But, it appears that you are correct - somewhere in the 600-1200ppm range.

The Chrono would line up w/what you're currently using. Fully synthetic, w/alot more Moly (10x more than US Castrol Edge).

Makes this look even more attractive for SuperDave, where the Moly level appears to be in the 800ppm range.

 

[Boosted2.0]

when you pick your oil you have to keep in mind your oil clearances. If you have rebuilt the motor and set it up loose you need a thicker oil. If its tight then thinner is called for.

Copper would be maybe bearings and rod bushings.

 

[Bitter]

& copper, yes. Its good to get this info & gain insight into what wear metals tend to indicate on a 2ZZ. Iron seems to be mostly from the valvetrain. Tin seems to be pistons. I've forgotten what Boosted 2.0 said the bearings were.

The high sodium must be part of the additive package.
Must be on the No. Shore I spent a year living on the South Side.

It also looks like to me that the ware is from the valve train because the aluminum is lower then the iron.
On my 2zz I had both metals elevated so my ware was from the piston and cylinder. I have since switched to 5-40 because that is what Lotus recommends.
In my opinion Toyota's recommendation of 30wt oil is fine for economy and daily driving but not for conditions where you will stress the motor.

Just my opinion at this point but I should be able to prove my theory on my next oil analysis.

W/MMC cylinders, I wouldn't think the aluminum is coming from there, unless you've got some fairly worn cylinders.Yep. That's Lotus' recommendation for a daily driver. The Lotus advice for European oils.... Havoline Synthetic 5W40 for daily, Castrol RS10W60 for track: http://web.archive.org/web/20070130102224/http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/engineoil.pdf But, from what Boosted 2.0 has said and my own opinion.... a 50+ is a bit too high. I've had problems w/a Toyota in the past with failure of certain mechanical parts that were not receiving enough lubrication because I was using too high a viscosity oil - in that case 20W50. Yes, for the 5W-30. This is pretty much a known fact. I would say for heavy use, something in the range of >=10W30<20W50. A 5W40 or 10W40 would also fall in that range.

no, far south suburbs but I get out to starved rock area a few times a year

I picked the max-life because it was closer to 5w-40, its free to me, and it has higher detergents, suspension, and anti-wear additives than the other oils we stock. of what we carry, it was the best suited to my engine. over the 5k OCI my oil level dropped from ON the full dot to touching the bottom of the full dot. I must have gotten a good tight engine, or is it normal for the 2ZZ to burn almost zero oil? my first OCI was toyota oil with toyota filter from the previous owner. all subsequent ones have been max-life with purolator pure-one.

 

[SuperDave]

Makes this look even more attractive for SuperDave, where the Moly level appears to be in the 800ppm range.

Any recommendations for a high Moly oil? I can get the 300V, and have used it previously, but the cost is double that of the Turbo Light in Australia; we get over charged for everything . I had mainly increased my oil change frequency due to a belief I was getting a high level of fuel dilution. I'd have to look into the price of other high Moly oil options; are you able to point out any high moly oils? Or provide a reference I could cross check what's available for me to buy here.

 

[KEYTECHNIQUES]

Any recommendations for a high Moly oil? I can get the 300V, and have used it previously, but the cost is double that of the Turbo Light in Australia; we get over charged for everything . I had mainly increased my oil change frequency due to a belief I was getting a high level of fuel dilution. I'd have to look into the price of other high Moly oil options; are you able to point out any high moly oils? Or provide a reference I could cross check what's available for me to buy here.

I believe in Australia you can get Liqui Moly MoS2 additive which will boost you to 350ppm of colloidal Moly and it is not that expensive . I am currently using the US version under the Lubro Moly brand available at Napa which has favorable reviews on Bobistheoilguy .

I believe Motul 300v contains very high levels of Moly.

 

[2way]

is it normal for the 2ZZ to burn almost zero oil?

Seems normal. I don't burn much, if any, and you don't see too many complaints here about it.

Any recommendations for a high Moly oil?

I can't really say for the land of OZ. Some ones to research in your region would be Castrol Edge and Magnatec (the US Edge has some Moly, but not a high PPM); Liqui Moly SUPER LEICHTLAUF 10W-40 or LEICHTLAUF SPECIAL LL 5W-30; Valvoline Synpower, MaxLife, & DuraBlend. I don't know where these land in your price range. You may have to hunt around for OZ VOA info on these.

The other option (although I personally don't usually recommend additives) might be to add some Liqui Moly MOS2 to your TurboLight on your own. But, I wouldn't go overboard with it till you figure out what amount added = what ppm. Start with a measured portion like 50-100mL, not the full 300mL can/bottle, and see what you get on your next analysis.

 

[Bitter]

oh not complaining, curious if its because of the MMC cylinders not having any cross hatch though. i see ALOT of engines at work and do way too many oil changes and other than cars that run short oil changes (old people that don't drive) i never see a car that doesn't loose oil over 3000-5000 miles.

 

[KEYTECHNIQUES]

Seems normal. I don't burn much, if any, and you don't see too many complaints here about it.I can't really say for the land of OZ. Some ones to research in your region would be Castrol Edge and Magnatec (the US Edge has some Moly, but not a high PPM); Liqui Moly SUPER LEICHTLAUF 10W-40 or LEICHTLAUF SPECIAL LL 5W-30; Valvoline Synpower, MaxLife, & DuraBlend. I don't know where these land in your price range. You may have to hunt around for OZ VOA info on these.

The other option (although I personally don't usually recommend additives) might be to add some Liqui Moly MOS2 to your TurboLight on your own. But, I wouldn't go overboard with it till you figure out what amount added = what ppm. Start with a measured portion like 50-100mL, not the full 300mL can/bottle, and see what you get on your next analysis.

Thats a good point. I added 200ml to the oil I am using that does not have any Moly at all. I was so impressed with the quiet operation I added the product to my other two cars and so far the results have been favorable.
If my iron comes down on my next UOA I will know Moly is the way to go.
BTW Honda oil also contains much Moly and in fact it is apparently their break in additive they use from the factory in which they tell the customer not to change the oil until 10k miles for the first oil change.
Strange as I thought you would not want high Moly until everything is well seated.

 

[SuperDave]

I can't really say for the land of OZ. Some ones to research in your region would be Castrol Edge and Magnatec (the US Edge has some Moly, but not a high PPM); Liqui Moly SUPER LEICHTLAUF 10W-40 or LEICHTLAUF SPECIAL LL 5W-30; Valvoline Synpower, MaxLife, & DuraBlend. I don't know where these land in your price range. You may have to hunt around for OZ VOA info on these.

The other option (although I personally don't usually recommend additives)

I can get Motul 8100, which is in between the price of 300v and 4100. Some searches however show the 300v is about 5 times higher than the 8100 in the moly content. Edge here for some stupid reason is only 0w40, 5w30, 10w60 and 25w50 :S All not suitable for what I use the oil for. The Mobil 1 looks lower than the 8100 on the moly content, but costs the same as the 300v. I can get the Synpower. Also the likes of Redline, Amsol and Royal Purple can be found here, but tend to be around the price of 300v also. Curse this small population driving the cost of everything up.

 

[2way]

BTW Honda oil also contains much Moly

There doesn't appear to be much difference between the Toyota and Honda oils.

I can get the Synpower. Also the likes of Redline, Amsoil and Royal Purple can be found here, but tend to be around the price of 300v also.

I'm not an RP fan. Kortik had been running Amsoil w/good results. Sounds like adding LiquiMoly to your TurboLight might be the most cost effective way for you to go. From my limited reading, your motor oil prices are on the high side and your cost consciousness is very understandable.

Curse this small population driving the cost of everything up.

But, from what I've seen, you do have a very active Toyota population over there.

 

[kortik]

ok my June test w/Castrol Edge 5w30
viscosity went down big this time compared to the others

so my next oil test will be a mix of 5w30 w/10w30 and see if viscosity will go down or stay





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[Gts*Jason]

I dont see a picture

 

[Bitter]

so along the lines of this thread, filters are important too.

I did some digging and it looks like the Purolator PL22821 would maybe fit the celica? it fits the A series engines (new and older) but I'm not sure if its increased diameter would make it not fit, anyone know? thread and seal should be the same since if it fits an A series engine and my Geo uses the same filter number as my Celica then the A series and ZZ series use the same seal and thread.

 

[kortik]

is that purolator filter biiger that PL14477 that I use?

 

[Bitter]

is that purolator filter biiger that PL14477 that I use?

I think the PL14477 is the GTS filter, this PL22821 has the same gasket and thread but is longer and wider. the 14476 is also the same my other car (7afe) uses and even oddly my friends John Deere tractor (she'll be getting the bigger filter from now on assuming it fits).

I know on the A series theres nothing but room around the filter,but ours is tucked in around the oil pan so I don't know if the increase in diameter would be too much.

I just wanted to pass on that a larger oil filter can be used on 88-97 Corollas. The standard purolator filter is L14476 or PL14476, but the filter used in earlier 4a engines (and other Toyota engines) is larger and still works, the number is L/PL22821. This design is 1.01" taller and 0.46" wider, internally the relief valve opens a couple psi lower. I don't know what (if any) difference there is in filter area, but it seems to me there should be a notable increase. I've been using the larger filter for about the last 75,000 miles to no ill effect in a 1993 4afe Corolla with about 250,000 miles on it.

http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html


PL22821
Type of Filter: Spin-on
Thread Pitch: UNF-2B
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 12-15
O.D.: 3.15

Threads: 3/4-16
Height: 3.94
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes

PL14477
Relief Valve P.S.I.: 14-18
Thread Pitch: UNF-2B
Type of Filter: Spin-on
Height: 3.52

Threads: 3/4-16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
O.D.: 2.69

 

[kortik]

thats interesting I might try that next time

 

[Bitter]

only thing that worries me is will it fit and what about the lower bypass pressure?

 

[2way]

Not bad for 6k, kortik. Remember, the Edge & Syntec start out on the low side to begin with. With summer here, you're probably flogging it more You can play w/a mixture of 5W30 & 10W30 to find what works best. I would think in Summer... probably 3qts 10W30 and 2qts 5W30. Winter time... probably 1-2qts 10W30 and 3-4 qts 5W30.

Nice to see your fuel contamination issue resolving.

 

[JameX]

Not bad for 6k, kortik. Remember, the Edge & Syntec start out on the low side to begin with. With summer here, you're probably flogging it more You can play w/a mixture of 5W30 & 10W30 to find what works best. I would think in Summer... probably 3qts 10W30 and 2qts 5W30. Winter time... probably 1-2qts 10W30 and 3-4 qts 5W30.

Nice to see your fuel contamination issue resolving.

Or just go with german castrol syntec 0w-30, which is fully PAO and a very heavy 30 weight oil (almost 40, 12.0 CST at 100c). Hahaha, I just got a nice 30 quarts stash with the recent autozone deal of 5 quarts of syntec + filter = 27 bucks.

That thing is best. No Moly though, like always I drop a little of liquimoly in there.

 

[kortik]

Castrol Edge according to the oil test has plenty of moly there compared to of course Amsoil 0w30 I used before.

my next oil test will be a mix of 50/50 of 10w30 and 5w30. I put 2.5 quarts of each just to see what viscosity it will be.

the fuel got resoleved I think because of I replace my cracked spark plug coil. maybe that helped I am not sure on that.