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Hello Smaay,
1st of all I want to thank you for all the info posted. I did read every thread about the swap.
I'm planning my swap for my LHD Euro Celica GT as I found a 2003 RHD Euro/Uk GT-S crashed in the rear but the motor stars and runs good.
My question is, will I have any problems because of the LHD / RHD conversion ?
Since I am buying the whole car I just need to:
- swap the motor
- change the ecu
- change or keep the GT alternator ( what would you suggest ? )
- change the harness with the GT-S one ( no hacks needed, right ? )
- change the cluster
- change the midpipe/exhaust
...and hope everything will be allright... HOPE :)

I've found a good deal for the car, just 1300$ the whole car and I'm gonna do the conversion with a friend that has a mechanical shop so no labor taxes there.

Thanks in advance !
Radu.
 

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After a rather rough month, I'm back! (and the car has a new front end thanks to the towing company pulling it off the flatbed not quite right and ripping the whole darn thing off). So I replaced the MAF like you said, and cleaned out the IAC as best I could, and it seemed my high idle and bog down problem were solved (as mentioned in my last post). Well, turns out I was wrong. When I start the car up from cold, it idles pretty well, right around 800 or so. Unfortunately this as about as good as it gets. When I step on the throttle, the revs plummet (almost to stalling) and then as soon as I let off, it bounces back up to about 1500-2000. After a few goes at this, idle climbs up to 1600, and stays there, and the bogging problem goes away and I can drive about as normal. In addition to this, I've discovered that at idle, with my foot off the gas pedal the TPS registers at 89% and that seems all kinds of wrong. Sorry to bug again Smaay, but any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
In addition to this, I've discovered that at idle, with my foot off the gas pedal the TPS registers at 89% and that seems all kinds of wrong. Sorry to bug again Smaay, but any ideas?
you didnt swap the wires on the TPS plug did you.

edit: ok i see you cut them and swapped them. so are you using a 2ZZ harness or 1ZZ, if you are using a 2ZZ harness then you didnt have to swap them.

you only have to swap the wires if you are using a 1ZZ harness
 

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We did use the 1ZZ harness, as the 2ZZ harness wasn't available.

This is the readout at idle if that helps at all.
 

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I'm about 90% certain we swapped the correct wires. If I get a chance before work today I'll pull the plug out and double check.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
well swap them around until you see something like 11%. you dont have to be idling either. just turn the key to the on position. Torque will tell you the TPS
 

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Smaay, you are a gentleman and a scholar and an amazing help. I can't thank you enough. Got under the hood today and my throttle problem is no more. The best part is it comes with a funny story. So I've pulled the PCV hoses off so I can get to the TPS connector easier, and as I pull the connector up, I notice the jacket around the wires is unbroken, which makes me immediately think oh crap, the splice is further into the harness. So I give my dad a quick call (he's the one that did the splice and to be quite honest most of the work on this swap, as I'm still fairly new to this whole deal, computers were always more my thing) and ask him how far up from the connector he did the splice? He responds that he doesn't remember, but it shouldn't be too far, then comments that since I have to switch some wires around anyways, I should look into just getting a new 3-wire connector with pigtails since the holding clip is broken, and we had to zip-tie it on to make sure it didn't go anywhere. As he's saying this, I have the TPS wires in my hand, which is all in one piece, clip and all (and cue lightbulb moment) but y'know what isn't? The connector on my IAC. So after cutting off some electrical tape and jacketing, hey presto, there's the wire splice. So after a bit of picking and prodding, i swapped those wires back, flipped the ones on the TPS, and sure enough, Torque reads 11% throttle, just in time for me to go inside and get ready for work. So thanks a million Smaay.
 

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Im new here been reading but first post i bought my celica about 3 months ago and already had the engine blow at (130k) on it so since i have to get a new engine was planning on swapping over to the 2zz. A lot of great advice in article well done but i have 2 questions. http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=170_180&products_id=1784 (this is the engine swap package planning on getting)
but it says i still need to buy these following parts
celica GTS cold air intake of your choice
Celica GTS midpipe or PPE header/midpipe or adapt your Celica GT midpipe
Celica GTS throttle cable (2 cable options, with or without cruise control)
is any way i can use the 1zz parts for this?
Thanks for your help guys
 

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Im new here been reading but first post i bought my celica about 3 months ago and already had the engine blow at (130k) on it so since i have to get a new engine was planning on swapping over to the 2zz. A lot of great advice in article well done but i have 2 questions. http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=170_180&products_id=1784 (this is the engine swap package planning on getting)
but it says i still need to buy these following parts
celica GTS cold air intake of your choice
Celica GTS midpipe or PPE header/midpipe or adapt your Celica GT midpipe
Celica GTS throttle cable (2 cable options, with or without cruise control)
is any way i can use the 1zz parts for this?
Thanks for your help guys
My Dad and I did this back in October, same swap package, just with the 6 spd and the LSD. This is just my experience, Smaay is the more knowledgeable on this one.
My AEM intake for the GT motor does fit, but the rubber sleeve is a bit snug, and because of the slightly higher spot the throttle body sits, we had to bend one of the sensor mounts down so it would clear the hood, no big deal there.
We adapted the GT midpipe. MWR sells a downpipe inlet (http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=2159) which you can use to adapt the GT midpipe to the GTS manifold. We took it to a local muffler shop and they welded it on, with some bending and got it to fit just fine.
"oh that reminds me, yes you can use the GT throttle cable if you delete the cruise. I had a GT-S cable from the cruise to the TB, so i used that" Like Smaay said, you can use the GT throttle cable, but you'll end up without cruise control.
 

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My Dad and I did this back in October, same swap package, just with the 6 spd and the LSD. This is just my experience, Smaay is the more knowledgeable on this one.
My AEM intake for the GT motor does fit, but the rubber sleeve is a bit snug, and because of the slightly higher spot the throttle body sits, we had to bend one of the sensor mounts down so it would clear the hood, no big deal there.
We adapted the GT midpipe. MWR sells a downpipe inlet (http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?products_id=2159) which you can use to adapt the GT midpipe to the GTS manifold. We took it to a local muffler shop and they welded it on, with some bending and got it to fit just fine.
"oh that reminds me, yes you can use the GT throttle cable if you delete the cruise. I had a GT-S cable from the cruise to the TB, so i used that" Like Smaay said, you can use the GT throttle cable, but you'll end up without cruise control.
Awesome thanks having to do an unexpected engine swap going hurt the wallet trying to save money where i can so only really going to need to get the gts mid pipe. I never even use cruse control any way so no big deal. I want to do the 6 speed but don't have an extra 500$ laying around right now but will do that eventually haha did you need to get a different gear box being a 6 speed or did the transmission come with it?
 

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Getting ready to order parts swap so i just have just one more question with the tach all i need to do i swap in the gts Tach right? no re-calibration? if i stay using the GT tach the rpms it says its at will be off?
 

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"you can use the GT cluster, but you will be in the red zone after 7000 RPMs which is fine for a 2ZZ"
From my understanding there's no need to mess with the tach or instrument cluster at all, and it should still read accurately. I'm still running the GT cluster with no issues.
 

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planning on swapping in the gt-s tach found a pretty cool one for cheap. But all i should have to do is swap it in and it should be accurate correct?
 

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This is a fantastic thread with very knowledgeable wrenchers. I do appreciate all of the ins and outs that were pointed out during this swap! I am almost done with the swap and wanted to contribute my experience with the throttle cable and the large heater hose to the head.

You can use the GT cable from the cruise control... This might save a few of you some bucks and the headache of locating one and/or allow the use of cruise. I put the bend in a 4 inch vise and slowly closed the jaws until it was straight! No cracks or kinks... adjusted to allow WOT and voila' done deal :)

The heater hose only needs to be extended about 1 inch to comfortably fit onto the nipple, I accomplished this by adding a Prestone Flush kit "T" into the hose and it allows a good flush point when service is needed.

I hope this helps!

Roger
 

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One more addition I would comment is the GT harness can be used well if you cut the old wire protection off and realign the wires. I did this anyway because the wire protection on my care was sun baked from the Nevada heat. I bought new loom material, Tee for loom mating, and electrical tape. I realigned the harness using some of the bracketry from the old Lotus harness and then covered EVERYTHING in nice plastic loom and tee connectors. My harness is cleaner and better looking now than any stock harness, GTS or otherwise could hope to be and it did not take a ton of time since the harness was disconnected already anyway. Just some thoughts!
 
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