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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
peeps, I recently changed my clutch in the zze123 corolla 2zzge with a competition clutch stage 2 but after reinstalling everything the car does not want to go into any gears when started but will go into gear when switched off this is very weird Behaviour as I have not experienced this before when changing a clutch. At one point the car would go into gear when raised in the air but when I released my foot of the clutch and the wheels were spinning I applied the brakes ever so slightly and it turned the car off. Fyi i used the clutch bearing that came with the CC clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 

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Define ‘clean’

why did you change the clutch.

are you getting full throw on the clutch slave? ( requires help).. confirmthis before ripping the box back out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By clean i mean 600 grit wet and dry to lightly clean the flywheel with break cleaner. Clutch was changed due to end of life/clutch slipping. In regards to the clutch slave it is moving the fork about a 1" & 1" 1/2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Define ‘clean’

why did you change the clutch.

are you getting full throw on the clutch slave? ( requires help).. confirmthis before ripping the box back out.
By clean i mean 600 grit wet and dry to lightly clean the flywheel with break cleaner. Clutch was changed due to end of life/clutch slipping. In regards to the clutch slave it is moving the fork about a 1" & 1" 1/2.
 

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I reckon your shit fork is cracked and flexing

So long as the step in the flywheel is 0.5mm or 0.020” above the bolted surface
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I reckon your shit fork is cracked and flexing

So long as the step in the flywheel is 0.5mm or 0.020” above the bolted surface
Appreciate the information so far.

If the fork was cracked and flexing then would that not affect the the gears from going in when the cars switched off aswell as the car does go into gear when off.

During installation of the gearbox the gear selector was knocked out of position. does the transmission have a press type reset point and a reset procedure

Just for clarity based on the flywheel are you meaning that the clutch centre will come into contact with the flywheel bolts if there is not enough material on the flywheel surface to due to previous clutch wear and tear.
 

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peeps, I recently changed my clutch in the zze123 corolla 2zzge with a competition clutch stage 2 but after reinstalling everything the car does not want to go into any gears when started but will go into gear when switched off this is very weird Behaviour as I have not experienced this before when changing a clutch. At one point the car would go into gear when raised in the air but when I released my foot of the clutch and the wheels were spinning I applied the brakes ever so slightly and it turned the car off. Fyi i used the clutch bearing that came with the CC clutch. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
You sure you used the correct clutch kit?
 

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Appreciate the information so far.

If the fork was cracked and flexing then would that not affect the the gears from going in when the cars switched off aswell as the car does go into gear when off.

During installation of the gearbox the gear selector was knocked out of position. does the transmission have a press type reset point and a reset procedure

Just for clarity based on the flywheel are you meaning that the clutch centre will come into contact with the flywheel bolts if there is not enough material on the flywheel surface to due to previous clutch wear and tear.
A cracked fork can do whatever it wants which includes intermittent clutch engagement while running or while off.

There is no reset procedure other than reinstalling the transmission.

If the flywhell is too thin, it will cause poor engagement due to there not being enough friction. If the clutch disc is installed backwards, it will prevent engagement outright because the dampeners will space out the disc too far.

In any scenario, if the issue is not external, then the transmission needs to come back off and you need to ensure everything was in the correct position. I have never heard of a clutch engaging while off, but not while on, but if I were to wager a guess something is offset or misaligned, and it's very likely the clutch itself.

TL;DR, check everything related to shifting and make sure it's all actuating properly, if it's all good and problem persists, pull the tranny. Fwiw, I also installed it in gear, but it didnt matter because that more affects shift cable placement than it's ability to go into gear
 

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I had this happen once when I installed the clutch disk backwards.
This. If I think I read your posts….

cracked fork will only give issues when running because…. The gears are spinning… not you cannot sit with the car running, foot off the clutch and change gears.

i think you wrote the thickest part of the clutch plate is toward the crank bolts,? The thickest part should be into the centre of the pressure plate. Flat side toward the bolts in the centre.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE!! after pulling the gearbox again we found out that the clutch stuck itself to the flywheel with (lock tight) which somehow made its way from the bolts as we clamped down the pressure plate to the flywheel. Could this of been the cause as to why it was not going into gear ?.
 

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Absolutely is, I’d suggest buying a new clutch plate only.
Fuck me.. how much loctite did you use?

I use NONE.. flywheel to crank bolts get a small drop on every second one I pick up, which is wiped thread to thread with the next bolt I pick up.

brakeclean that flywheel SPOTLESS..

There is really very few parts that NEED Loctite.

Glasses Vision care Product Gesture Font
 

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If you think about how a clutch should work, with you foot away from the pedal the pressure plate spring presses the clutch plate tight against the flywheel causing a direct drive via the input shaft in the spline of the plate.

push your foot on the pedal and you free the clutch plate from flywheel stopping the input shaft spinning.

you glued the clutch plate to the rotating parts so it never disengaged drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Absolutely is, I’d suggest buying a new clutch plate only.
Fuck me.. how much loctite did you use?

I use NONE.. flywheel to crank bolts get a small drop on every second one I pick up, which is wiped thread to thread with the next bolt I pick up.

brakeclean that flywheel SPOTLESS..

There is really very few parts that NEED Loctite.

View attachment 55940
Absolutely is, I’d suggest buying a new clutch plate only.
Fuck me.. how much loctite did you use?

I use NONE.. flywheel to crank bolts get a small drop on every second one I pick up, which is wiped thread to thread with the next bolt I pick up.

brakeclean that flywheel SPOTLESS..

There is really very few parts that NEED Loctite.

View attachment 55940
I would usually use a dot of lock tight but there where to many chefs in the kitchen and that part got overseen. Clutch wise only half the plate was stuck to the flywheel so I used a pick to get between the small gaps of each friction paddle and gently pryed it off the flywheel so only a small area of 2 and a half paddles on the plate that had lock tight which was lightly sanded off with 1200grit and then brake cleaned all the areas aswell. Nothing was cracked or bent my may concern was the clutch paddles braking apart trying to remove the clutch but got lucky with it, there is only very minor damage which was th skimming. I'll send a pic below
 
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