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2ZZ-GTE
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
AEM EMS-4 MWR PNP kit install/review

Let me start off with saying I am no professional tuner or technician so I will try my best to answer any questions. this is my first install thread so if im missing something dont hesitate to ask

Overall I’m pleased with the unit over my power fc. I saved a bit because I bought the ems4 separate for less than retail, then purchased just the patch harness and map sensor from mwr. The idle is smooth like stock, the software is very user friendly and loaded with a bunch of settings that are foreign to me but I’m sure its not a bad thing haha. Lift works as it should, the protection features work well and obviously serve a good purpose. MAP based tuning seems a lot more straight forward to me, keep in mind im not a tuner by any means. For those who don’t know this ecu is ran parallel to the stock ecu so it is setup like a piggyback but the stock ecu is left in to control the gauges, fans, ac etc

Whats in the box:


I’ve since added a aem IAT kit which was 60 bux so I can completely delete the stock maf, wiring for that was easy and once it is matched up in the software works good.

Now for the bad, below are some things I don’t like about the ems4 setup which could be just me being picky.

Installation instructions from mwr are very poor to say the least. If our car was setup like a corolla/matrix/vibe sure it would be great because we can easily hide the huge patch harness and ems4 but we’re not so lucky.

2-step is not working. I’m not sure if it’s a setting problem or if it is not wired correctly

MWR customer service to address this problem sucks, gave em a call to ask them why this may be happening and what they setup in the basemap got me no where they basically said everything should be working and gave me no further info.

The last issue which may turn some people away has to do with the installation, because the patch harness is not long enough to run in the cabin for it to look somewhat presentable I tucked the wires behind the ecu box (you will see in the pics below, Im still not happy with how it looks but it works)
Now the big problem here is the stock battery size. You have 2 options, relocate battery to the truck OR do what I did get an odyssey pc680 battery and make a custom tie down. I’ve been daily driving with this battery and I have a 10 inch kicker l7 with a 1000w amp and have yet to see any problems.


Install:

Step 1: remove stock battery
step 2: remove ecu cover and unplug factory ecu harness
step 3: remove the oem ecu box
step 4: remove the ecu from the stock box.

Step 5: Modifying the stock ecu box. Since the stock harness goes through the front of the ecu box the patch harness which now plugs into the stock ecu will look stupid coming out from the front. So what I did was run the stock harness between the ecu box and the fuse box to run to the back



Step 6: I cant remember the exact size I used but it was probably a 2 inch or 2.25 hole saw bit and drilled 2 holes in the rear of the ecu box for the wires to pass through.



Step 7: place the ecu back in the box but put it in the opposite way so the plugs go in the same way as they did when the wires ran through the front of the box. This will require the brackets at the side of the ecu to be removed.

Step 8: Mounting the EMS4 to the ecu box, I centred mine which only allowed me to use 3 self tapping screws to hold it in place. It sits very firm even though it doesn’t have all 4 screws (another thing that bugs me)

edit: i forgot that i did grind off a tab from the box where the ecu is mounted for it to sit flat against the box.



Step 9: Make all connections, plug the patch harness into the stock ecu, plug in the aem harness to the ems4 , and the oem connecters to the patch harness.




Step 10: re-install ecu box (3 10mm bolts that hold it in place)

Step 11: in front of the ecu box has a metal clip that holds the engine harness in place I bent that forward to get a bit more room.


Step 12: run the usb cable into the cabin with the battery not installed (much easier)

Step 13: mount battery and tie down if you go the route I did

Step 14: install ecu box cover



Step 14: mount MAP sensor to a location of your choice and plug it in

finished product:




Other tips:

If you get your aem or other IAT sensor kit use the pin out included for the ems4 and run one wire to pin 30 inlet air temp (on my harness it is purple) and the other to sensor ground pin 35 (on my harness it is a black wire with brown stripe)

Wideband white serial wire is taped off on the harness for you to connect as well.
 

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Super Moderator
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interesting, I thought about using one of these for my 6th gen turbo setup.
 

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I'm also thinking about using one for my 2zz mr-s swap. Looks like a much better ecu than a PFC and price is basically the same as PFC + harness.
 

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2ZZ-GTE
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695 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
it is basically a aem series 2 for any car. it uses aemtuner, what i like about it is that its fairly new, the pfc was very outdated and since i saw the thread in the FI section where the pfc adjusted timing by itself that was the last straw for me
 

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im not aware that the PFC adjusts timing by itself. It wont do that.
 

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2ZZ-GTE
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Discussion Starter #6
your right, it shouldn't do that but this one may have been defective or something and the files corrupting is also another issue i didn't like. i'm probably just hating on pfc now because i dont have it anymore lol :D

http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=351627
 

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Thanks for the DIY. Would also be interested in what you have to do to get 2 step to work. I believe thangcu35 got it to work on his mr2.
 

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im not aware that the PFC adjusts timing by itself. It wont do that.
Sure it can.

Idle ign controll will adjust idle ignition to attempt to maintain a stable Idle.

On the 1zz PFC they have an additional tab that in part controlls a learned ignition timing value that is added onto the base timing.

Additionally on both 1zz and 2zz pfc there are bugs in the datalogit software that can allow for additional timing to be used in certain load and rpm ranges over the base timing.

Finally they can fail like with abrams car and just decide to add 10* of timing during a wot 17 psi pull.
 

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wow. Thats a real bummer.

well just another reason to consider the AEM EMS4
 

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2ZZ-GTE
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Discussion Starter #12
Hydra also works with a map sensor right? out of curiousity what version are you using?
 

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Additionally on both 1zz and 2zz pfc there are bugs in the datalogit software that can allow for additional timing to be used in certain load and rpm ranges over the base timing.
Weird! :) I heard of bugs being called features. But never the opposite. Unless I miss understand what you meant.
 

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Sure it can.

Idle ign controll will adjust idle ignition to attempt to maintain a stable Idle.

On the 1zz PFC they have an additional tab that in part controlls a learned ignition timing value that is added onto the base timing.

Additionally on both 1zz and 2zz pfc there are bugs in the datalogit software that can allow for additional timing to be used in certain load and rpm ranges over the base timing.

Finally they can fail like with abrams car and just decide to add 10* of timing during a wot 17 psi pull.
Oke, Ign controll we know.... but the other things... please explain.. where is the additional tab for the 1zz? How does this work?

Where are the bugs in what load or RPM range.

We know of the one which was failing and added 10 degrees
 

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Oke, Ign controll we know.... but the other things... please explain.. where is the additional tab for the 1zz? How does this work?

Where are the bugs in what load or RPM range.

We know of the one which was failing and added 10 degrees
You need a 1zz pfc to see the extra tab, if you have a 2zz pfc it's not there.

If you think of the pfc ignition map as quadrants with the upper left being 1 and the upper right being 2, and the lower left being 3, and lower right being 4, then you will find bugs with additional ignition timing being applied above the base in quadrant 2 when logged.

Additionally, the pfc has an issue at low rpm (near idle), in quadrant 1&3 where the ecu thinks its entering or is in idle mode, and if you try to accelerate it will drop timing to 0 in an attempt to bring the idle back in line, this causes a dead spot in acceleration.
 

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Thanks Illusive!!


You need a 1zz pfc to see the extra tab, if you have a 2zz pfc it's not there.
I have a 1zz PFC, what TAB is it?

If you think of the pfc ignition map as quadrants with the upper left being 1 and the upper right being 2, and the lower left being 3, and lower right being 4, then you will find bugs with additional ignition timing being applied above the base in quadrant 2 when logged.
i am sorry.... but i don't understand this, i do understand the quadrants, but where in quadrant 2 starts the additional timing, and is it retard or advanced timing?



Additionally, the pfc has an issue at low rpm (near idle), in quadrant 1&3 where the ecu thinks its entering or is in idle mode, and if you try to accelerate it will drop timing to 0 in an attempt to bring the idle back in line, this causes a dead spot in acceleration.
I indeed have this issue, whats your tip to solve this?

Thanks Again

Andres
 
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