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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I saw a post yesterday of a guy that wanted step by step instructions on how to replace the radio. I just got my wisdom teeth taken out and I’ve just been laying around taking pain meds. I decided I’d be productive today so here it goes.

Tools needed:
- 10mm socket
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Wire strippers with crimper
- Butt connectors (anywhere from 4-15 depending on install type)
- Electrical tape
- Zipties
- Soldering iron***** Optional
- Solder***** Optional
- Green 3/16" shrink wrap***** Optional
- Lighter***** Optional

1) As with most electrical modifications I do, I like to remove the negative from the battery before I start anything. (10mm)

2) Make sure to pull the E-brake, then using the neutral button, shift into drive (or into neutral on a manual).

3) Pull up from the bottom part of the shifter surround opening. Then pull down and towards the back of the car near the top of the shifter surround.

4) Remove the 2 screws exposed by removing the shifter surround.

5) Turn all of the AC knobs to the left. Remove all the knobs and the 2 screws behind the temperature select and vent type select knobs.

6) Pull up and out from the bottom of the AC bezel. Once the radio bezel is out, unplug the clock plug.

7) Using a 10mm socket, remove the 4 radio bracket bolts.

8) Pull the radio out and remove the 2 white plugs as well as the antenna plug.

9) Remove the 4 screws holding the radio to the radio brackets.

10) Refit the new radio to the radio brackets. Then fit the double din brackets to each side of the radio

11) Depending on which sound system you have, whether you have a subwoofer or not, and a ton of other things that have been talked about at length on here you’ll have 3 options. a) Metra 70-1761 (non-amplified systems) b) Metra 70-8112 (amplifier integration) c) Metra 70-8116 (amp bypass)

a. Non amplified: Match up the new radio’s wires to the metra harness’s wires of the same color i.e. red to red, yellow to yellow, green w/ black stripe to green with black stripe. You can choose to solder the wires together and use shrink wrap to insulate them or just use a standard crimp/butt connector. The simple fact that anyone would need this write up probably means you’ll be using the butt connectors.

b. Amp integration: Same basically as the non-amplified except you will need to remember to connect both the black ground wires from the metra harness to the radio’s black wire. You also don’t want to forget to connect the blue wires together b/c that is the remote turn on wire to the oem amplifier. Without that, you will get no sound. After the red, yellow, black and blue wires are connected, plug in the rca’s and you should be good to go

c. Amp bypass: Remove the biggest plug from the underside of the amplifier (plug I believe is a 24 pin) The amplifier is located on the underside of the glove compartment up against where the door meets the car body. Place that plug in the plug of the bypass harness. Run the wires under the carpet and through to the back of the radio. Take the second harness and connect the red wire from that to the red wire of the radio’s wiring (same for yellow and black). Connect the wires coming from the amplifier to your radios speaker wires (white to white, green to green etc.)

12) Depending on the radio and it’s features, you may now have to install a microphone, Bluetooth adapter, navigation unit and antenna, satellite radio etc.

a. For most of these, the add-ons can simply be plugged in, excess wires zip tied and then tucked in the dash behind the radio. I have found that even things like navigation and satellite radio antennas work extremely well even if they are mounted to the top of the radio itself and not actually on the exterior of the car.

b. The car-phone mic can simply be ran from the radio, underneath the drivers carpet and up the a-pillar to the visor.

13) Of course this part goes without saying….but…. if you plan on using a double din radio, you must always follow your state and local laws such as “no video while driving”. I am in no way responsible for anything you do to your car or any accidents that may occur due to driver’s negligence. Now that that’s been said, if you are wanting to view video in a legal manner or your state allows video playback within view of the driver you’ll want to do a parking brake bypass. The new $1000+ radios have gyroscopes in them that detect motion and shut down navigation and video via the software and are difficult to bypass. I will not be covering those. There are 3 types of bypass that can be done.

a. Some cheaper or older units simply need the parking brake wire to be grounded in order for the video to appear. Simply wiring the head units ground and parking brake wires together will achieve this, however, the video features will always be available. If for some reason an officer would want to see the lock feature, you would not be able to show him. (This works with Soundstream, Boss, Power Acoustik, older pioneer, kenwood and sony units etc.)

b. Relay bypass: This just requires a standard automotive relay (Amazon sells them in packs of 5 for like $8 shipped). This works for units that need the parking brake to be grounded for video features but the ground signal must be applied after the car is started. This was their way around just simply wiring the ground and parking brake together. This method works on both no-name and name brand units from probably about 2005-2010.

c. Switch: Some of the newer units you just have to use a switch. Short of using a couple of relays and making a mess, this is the only way to do it. The newer units require the parking brake to be grounded, un-grounded, and then grounded again to allow the video features to work. The easiest way to do this is to get a normal automotive switch and on one side put the parking brake wire from the headunit and on the other side put a ground (can be from the headunit or any bare metal in the car). Then you’ll just flip the switch 3 times and you’ll be good to go.

14) Connect the wire harness and antenna plug to the radio.

15) Reconnect the battery and test to make sure everything is working properly (fade, balance, memory, bypass etc.)

16) If everything is working properly, use electrical tape and zip ties to clean up any excess wires so that they can be tucked safely behind the radio when reinstalling it.

17) Gently place the radio back into the opening with the brackets and dash kit attached. Secure it down with the 4 10mm bolts.

18) Plug the clock back in and replace the radio bezel. Screw in the 4 screws, place the knobs on.

19) Put the shifter surround back in and place the car back in park

20) Tighten down the battery terminal

Keep an eye out for my 100% OEM style push to start guide (for under $40) which I should be finished with by the end of January hopefully.
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