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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im running :
- 2 JLaudio 10W6V2
- Alpine 1800Watt MRD-M1005 (for subs)
- Alpine 75x4 MRV-F345
- 3 ohm Capacitor

everytime I turn it really loud, my amp (for subs) go off, then I have to turn off my engine for about 3 minutes and start again, it will work.

- Do I have to change my alternator since the power is not enough?
- If Yes, where can I get bigger alternator?
I already have Optima Yellow top battery.
- What do I have to do?
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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From the looks of the power you're running.. and the symptoms you describe.. I'm gonna guess that you might need to upgrade to a HO alternator. Have you ever measured the current draw? However, if it is only the sub... perhaps it is the thermal cut-off... is the amp breathing OK?


The only other suggestion I can give you is to make sure that you are using the largest gauge wiring possible to reduce IR drop.

Guess I should bring a couple of tools to Seaside;)
 

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I'm having some trouble as well ..
when my car is started my volts are 14.1, when im driving it hoovers around 13.6-13.9
at a stop light, it goes down to 12.9 - 13.3

is this normal, i have an optima yellow top as well. I'm running 2 gauge and everything is properly fused, my lights do not dim at all, just the volts, what could it be the alternator, or the battery?

thanks guys, and swyn, i now a company that has a high output alternator for the celica for 190 + shipping, its rated at 160amps.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Where are you measuring & with what device? Yeah, there is a co. on e-bay that sells them @ a good price.

If you aren't seeing light dimming.. then that's a plus... You need to measure @ the batt with a digital voltmeter.

Normal charging voltage is usually around 14.4V... some can run as low as 14V. Here is the light load (i.e. most things are shut off) charging test:
Check the charging circuit as follows: With the engine running from idle to 2,000 rpm , check the reading on the ammeter and voltmeter. Standard amperage: 10 A or less Standard voltage: 13.2-14.8 Volt If the voltmeter reading is more than standard voltage, replace the voltage regulator. If the voltmeter reading is less than the standard voltage, check the voltage regulator and generator as follows:
With terminal F grounded, start the engine and check the voltmeter reading of terminal B.
If the voltmeter reading is more than standard voltage, replace the voltage regulator.
If the voltmeter reading is less than standard voltage, check the generator.

Bear in mind that you will not be able to test AMPerage unless you have a high current clamp on ammeter....

If you're not seeing light dimming... or having cranking trouble... things are probably OK.. & you're just seeing slightly lower voltage due to your measurement point & IR drop in the leads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
2way said:
From the looks of the power you're running.. and the symptoms you describe.. I'm gonna guess that you might need to upgrade to a HO alternator. Have you ever measured the current draw? However, if it is only the sub... perhaps it is the thermal cut-off... is the amp breathing OK?


The only other suggestion I can give you is to make sure that you are using the largest gauge wiring possible to reduce IR drop.

Guess I should bring a couple of tools to Seaside;)
I dont know what is HO alternator or IR drop, i never measured anything coz i dont know anything about electrical, i think u better bring MORE tools to Seaside lol :D can u fix it?
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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When it happens... see if there is a red overload/overtemp light lit on the amp....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
when the amp off, it came out "CUR", does it means Current? and it is blinking.
i dont think that because the amp only have 1 channel can`t hold 2 subs? is that possible? I saw lots of people used 1 channel amp and specially my amp is so powerful, what do u think?
 

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swyn said:
when the amp off, it came out "CUR", does it means Current? and it is blinking.
i dont think that because the amp only have 1 channel can`t hold 2 subs? is that possible? I saw lots of people used 1 channel amp and specially my amp is so powerful, what do u think?
Shutting down due to excessive current. How do you have the sub speakers wired?
 

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2way - thanks for the write up, i have a volt meter gauge on my a-piller. its in the standard range' that you posted so i guess im ok. it goes from 12.8 at stop - 13.4, then driving at 80 km, to 13.8
so i guess im ok then correct?
 

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ok since we are on the topic of alternator is there an aftermarket alternator replacement for our car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2way said:
swyn said:
when the amp off, it came out "CUR", does it means Current? and it is blinking.
i dont think that because the amp only have 1 channel can`t hold 2 subs? is that possible? I saw lots of people used 1 channel amp and specially my amp is so powerful, what do u think?
Shutting down due to excessive current. How do you have the sub speakers wired?
good question. the answer is i dont know lol :) the shop did everything, probably wrong huh? coz i brought to my friends place and he said that i just need to re-wire everything, i dont have to change alternator, thats why make me confused now, different people said different things.
 

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Leems said:
so i guess im ok then correct?
Is within reason... I doubt your measuring right @ the battery posts... so you'll see a lil voltage drop @ the meter.
Ch33z said:
ok since we are on the topic of alternator is there an aftermarket alternator replacement for our car?
Yes... there is an outfit on ebay that sells them reasonably priced. Search for the thread on HO alternators for the link.

swyn said:
he said that i just need to re-wire everything, i dont have to change alternator, thats why make me confused now, different people said different things.
You probably don't need an alt.... the problem is @ the amp. I suspect that your speakers are wired such that they are 2 ohms per speaker (the factory default).. & they are wired in parallel... then you have a 1 ohm impedence... which is too low for your amp. You either want them as 8 ohms per speaker in parallel for 4 ohms... or as 2 ohm speakers in series for 4 ohms.

Your amp is spec'd for:
Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 14.4V, 20Hz to 200Hz)
Per channel into 4 ohms (≤1% THD+N) ... MRD-M1005: 700Wx1
Per channel into 2 ohms (≤1% THD+N) ... MRD-M1005: 1,000Wx1

Speaker Impedance ..................................................... 4 or 2 ohms
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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You've, obviously, never been around a Ford (which is probably a good thing).
HO= High output...

*Note the 351W HO in my sig? 351 Windsor High Output engine;-)

LOL... I suppose you could consider the 2ZZ as a 1.8L HO
 

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http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7954.pdf

You'll note the jumper section... I recall from your setup that they are wired as 2 ohm per speaker... which means that the 4 wires from your speakers.... the + from one & the - from the other should be going to your amp... & the - from the one that goes to the amp should be connected to the + wire of the other speaker... If you have 4 wires attached to the amp... it is too much load for the amp.

Nice to meet you... you should post newer pics... you ain't the baby you once were;)
 

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No way it's the alt. I am running an Autotek MX 5000 (2x1200 watts) and a 4x100 Autotek, plus alot of audiocontrol add-ins and I have zero sysptoms of what he's talking about. True I have an optima yellow top and a 2 farad cap, but for the stuff he's got there is no way he's getting power issues coming TO the amps.

Either the subs are wired in at a lower impedance of what the amp can push, or there is something mecanically wrong in the amp/subs.

Also when he says he has to turn off the car....Has he tried just turning off the headunit and powering doen the entire system ( witht eh car running) I see no reason to have to turn the car off....

Hop he gets it all figured out.

AJ
 

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hhhhasgame said:
Either the subs are wired in at a lower impedance of what the amp can push, or there is something mecanically wrong in the amp/subs.

Also when he says he has to turn off the car....Has he tried just turning off the headunit and powering doen the entire system ( witht eh car running) I see no reason to have to turn the car off....
Yes, I think the subs may not be right. When he shut the car off, it reset the amp.
 
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