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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I'll be detailing my 2ZZ build here for everyone. So far, I've purchased the following:

-turbokits.com turbo kit
-MWR sleeved block
-Wiseco 10:0 pistons
-MWR valves
-MWR springs
-Wideband 02 gauge
-Oil pressure gauge
-Moroso Oil Pan
-255 lph fuel pump

I've got a few things left to buy, such as:
-Gasket set
-ARP head studs
-ARP main studs
-MWR main bearings
-MWR rod bearings
-TRD thermostat
-New water pump
-New timing chain + tensioner
-New belt tensioner
-Boost gauge
-Power FC + datalogit
-Quaife LSD
-Downpipe + 3" turboback exhaust
-550cc injectors
-Circuitworx oil pump

I'm probably forgetting a few things that I've thought of, but this seems as though it'll be a pretty bulletproof setup. I'm shooting for somewhere around 275 whp, but might start off a little lower for the breakin of the engine, like 250.

At some point I'll need to get some beefier wheels too, but I figure I'll stick with the current wastegate boost level, then later get better wheels/tires, get a boost controller, then turn the boost up after the engine is broken in.

I've installed the intake valves, and am going to do the exhaust valves later, but I figured I could document setting the valve lash when I get to it, as there's currently no guide (COUGH COUGH :p)

Here's some pics of some of the goodies:

Intake valves installed:


Sleeved block:


More sleeved block:


If anyone has any thoughts or questions, drop 'em below!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, I had MWR gap the piston rings for me, which they gapped at 0.018" and 0.020". I checked the what Wiseco specifies for their ring gap (http://www.wiseco.com/FAQs.aspx) for forced induction engines are 0.022" for the top ring and 0.020" for the 2nd ring. For those in the know, does that sound about right?
 

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Circuit worx doesnt make oil pumps any more, youll have to buy a different more expensive brand or wait for a used one to come up for sale.

as for the ring gaps, they gapped those to the stock standards and you should adjust your gaps per the wiseco specs.
 

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Gonna watch this thread we have almost identical builds except I have a 1.93l stroker. Saving for a tk.com kit
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gonna watch this thread we have almost identical builds except I have a 1.93l stroker. Saving for a tk.com kit
Nice!

I forgot to mention that I'm getting an MWR chromoly flywheel, and also an upgraded clutch. Not sure which one to go with though, as there are about 1 million clutch threads on here that all have different conclusions.
 

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Yeah I got the MWR chromoly wheel and an ACT clutch I also have Ferrera valves so pretty much the same I'm looking forward to see what kind of numbers. Are you going to use the standard turbo that tk.com provides?


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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah I got the MWR chromoly wheel and an ACT clutch I also have Ferrera valves so pretty much the same I'm looking forward to see what kind of numbers. Are you going to use the standard turbo that tk.com provides?


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Yeah, I bought a used kit that can with the base turbo. It's something that I can upgrade later (and fpr kit) if I feel like making better numbers. I'm also pretty pumped about street tuning this guy when it's all stitched up. I've read over the tuning thread and it doesn't seem too complicated, I'll j just be sure to proceed cautiously with my edits and be sure to avoid knock!
 

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You want .017-.018 for top and .020-.022 for bottom. Need to have more gap for bottom ring to prevent blowby getting trapped in between, which could float the top ring and cause it to not seat properly. All modern engines follow this trend, even Toyota BGB and Wiseco recommend to run it this way. I ran around .017 and .020 for my 400+whp turbo. Compression is solid and minimal oil consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You want .017-.018 for top and .020-.022 for bottom. Need to have more gap for bottom ring to prevent blowby getting trapped in between, which could float the top ring and cause it to not seat properly. All modern engines follow this trend, even Toyota BGB and Wiseco recommend to run it this way. I ran around .017 and .020 for my 400+whp turbo. Compression is solid and minimal oil consumption.
From Wiseco's FAQ page though, they recommend a smaller gap for the 2nd ring though, for forced induction (http://www.wiseco.com/FAQs.aspx).

I'll check the ring gap specs they sent with their sheet.
 

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From Wiseco's FAQ page though, they recommend a smaller gap for the 2nd ring though, for forced induction (http://www.wiseco.com/FAQs.aspx).

I'll check the ring gap specs they sent with their sheet.
That's very strange. I don't know if that is a recent update or a typo, but every other ring manufacturer recommends a larger 2nd ring, even Toyota BGB. I know for sure the Wiseco ring gap sheet that came with my pistons recommended .005" x bore for top and .0055" x bore for 2nd.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yeah, that's what the sheet that came with my pistons said as well. It's the conflict of information that's killing me. Considering that my rings are already gapped to 0.018" and 0.020", I'm wondering if I even need to change the gap on them. Grrrrr.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just ordered the following goodies:

-OEM gasket kit
-OEM timing chain tensioner
-OEM timing chain
-OEM accessory belt tensioner (the one I have is fubar)
-New lift bolts
-MWR chromoly flywheel
-MWR main bearings
-MWR rod bearings
-ARP head studs
-ARP main studs
-ARP flywheel bolts
-TRD 170F thermostat
-TODA oil pump
-550 CC DeatschWerks injectors

Once all of this stuff gets in, I'm going to get the flywheel polished and the rotating assembly balanced, then it's time to start putting it all back together. I'm currently in the process of setting the valve lash, but I busted one of the cam cap bearing bolts (a better torque wrench is in my near future), and have to wait until thursday for some replacements from the stealership.

I'm still a little unsure about how my Wiseco rings are gapped. From what Thangcu said, the 0.018" and 0.020" (top & bottom, repectively) gaps that MWR set should be sufficient for turbo, but at the same time, Smaay suggested having 0.020" top and 0.017" bottom. Anyone else with wisecos care to chime in?
 

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There's no doubt the 2nd gap should be larger, I've built dozen of engines this way and they turned out fine. I just built my 2zz last year with .017 and .020 and it still has good compression, made 400+ whp on a T28 frame turbo, minimal blowby and oil consumption. I'm sure either way will turn out fine. My research tells me to go with a larger 2nd ring gap and the reason makes sense so I follow it.
 

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This discussion came up in thang's own thread. I'd be inclined to follow Wiseco's own recommendation. Their full ring gap PDF confirms the same info, 2nd ring wider than top.
 
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