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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off the bracket design fits perfectly on the strut tower. Second the bar could be just a little longer for those who have to put them on the further engine mount bolt. Like everyone else has said it does cause a little vibration at idle but very little. Also hard launching as been met with more wheel spin than the hop. But the last thing is a disagreement with the other post it seems like to me that Im grinding my gears something I havent done in awhile maybe im just trying too hard to get hard shifts I dont know. What do you think killerm and the others who have this?
 

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I'm glad everything fits the car well. As for the bar being longer, as long as there is 3/8-1/2" of thread engaged in the bar on both ends then everything should be fine, if you don't have that, put it on the rear bolt, Some GTSs have the engine shifted slightly so you actually have to decide which mount works the best for you. On a GT everything should be fine.

The wheel spin is better then the wheel hop, this means that the power is being transfered much more smoothly then before.

As for the grinding. It sounds like you are letting the clutch out to early or your synchros are bad. The brace would have no effect on grear grinding as that has to do with the clutch engagement. The only effect the brace has on shifting is by keeping the engine still. This keeps the linkages more in their natural alignment, so your shifting will be smoother.

Grinding the gears sounds like a clutch or synchro problem.

Matt
 

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I noticed a lot of grinding from this gear box stock, but a trd ss and the brace solved that problem. That is just one of the quirks of a lightweight car ("notchiness" while shifting)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I was trying too hard, because I already knew the brace would help with the alignment of the linkage . Haven't grinded since I last posted. And I also knew that the wheel spin is better than hop. I cant wait to go to the track and see if I can improve my sixty foot.
 

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Keeping the engine still helps to keep the cables "linkage" still which in turn makes the shifter react more like when the car is sitting still. When the engine moves under normal operation the cables will flex and move. By keeping the engine more stable you help eliminate/reduce this flex, giving you smoother shifting.
 

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Zettai Unmei Mokushiroku
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nxracer said:
Then I guess I can't shift and turn at close to (or over) 1g
I think he's talking about the engine and tranny moving when you disengage the clutch and let off the gas in between shifts. I believe it makes sense because this movement tugs at the shifter cables, making the shifter seem to respond differently than if the engine was idling in neutral.
 

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You can shift at any point while driving your car, no matter how much the engine moves. The point of keeping the engine still is to help smooth out shifting, remember "smoother is faster" the old racing motto. Keeping the engine from flexing also helps remove initial torque loss, and reduces or elimitates wheel hop under hard launching.
 
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