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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have an issue with my map light and door switch sensors. I was wiring puddle lights/ghost lights onto my already installed add-on door handle lights (I have them wired to my auto on/off function to my interior light). Here is my issue, I had a metal/power contact, and when the light switch is set to "door", it doesn't turn on when I open/close the doors. The door switches do not turn the light on either, but the sensors turn on the door open indicator on the speedometer. If I open the door, the alarm does not activate. So far, there are NO blown fuses. Could I have cooked a relay, or cooked a ground?
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Sounds like a blown DOME fuse. If not, possibly a damaged Body ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a blown DOME fuse. If not, possibly a damaged Body ECU.
As far as I see, I have NO blown fuses. I'm going to do a ground test tomorrow & see if I can get anything to work. So far, my alarm system only goes off with my glass break sensor, the alarm doesn't go off when opening both doors, trunk, or hood pin. The light only goes on if I manually turn it on. This body ecu you are referring to, would that happen to be the small orange box underneath the fuses in the passenger footwell where that small panel clips in & out? If it is, is it something that can be directly swapped from another celicas gts (so long as it has the exact factory items that mine has)?
 

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The light only goes on if I manually turn it on.
This indicates that the fuse is good.

Your alarm is probably tied to the DOME light. So, it won't go off if the Body ECU output doesn't switch to GND. So, the bad news is that it sounds like you damaged the LP (lamp) transistor switch in the Body ECu & will have to find a replacement. The Body ECU is a plugin unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This indicates that the fuse is good.

Your alarm is probably tied to the DOME light. So, it won't go off if the Body ECU output doesn't switch to GND. So, the bad news is that it sounds like you damaged the LP (lamp) transistor switch in the Body ECu & will have to find a replacement. The Body ECU is a plugin unit.
Ugh, that IS bad news, but the GOOD news is that I know where to find them :) Junkyard I shall go tomorrow. To cover myself, I will just make sure that the part numbers match up at least, thanks for the info. I will post an outcome when I complete my repair.
 

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I suggest using relay isolation on any further lighting projects. The Body ECU LP output is only going to handle sinking a limited amount of current w/o overheating & popping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I suggest using relay isolation on any further lighting projects. The Body ECU LP output is only going to handle sinking a limited amount of current w/o overheating & popping.
You are correct, as I was thinking about going directly to the initial tap wire and adding a relay to that wire, then use it as a supply. Would I be able to get away with 1 relay and carefully wire my add-on courtesy lights to it? For the auto on/off, I have 1 small led strip in each door handle, 1 led strip under the dash on the driver & passenger side, and the ghost lights, or would I need a relay for each led item? I plan on doing it this weekend. Those are the only add-on lights that I am planning as far as the ones wired to the dome light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
FiXED!!! Thanks for the help 2way, the body ecu (orange box) was the problem. I matched up the part numbers just to be safe. It plugged right in, now all of my lights work, door switches and alarm are back.
 

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One relay should suffice to control the add-ons. Use the DOME lead as the low going (GND) trigger.
 
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