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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced some super rusty rear calipers (with broken bleeder screws) with duralast, when finished I drove it and the pads are way stuck. Three block drive got the rear rotors really hot. It's now night time and I used a flashlight to look and the guide pins seem to be jabbing into the back of the pads. There is no float whatsoever with the caliper. What gives? I torqued it like I did with the Oem calipers, but never had this issue. Was i supposed to take out the bushings and bolts from the old calipers and use them? I noticed with the remanufactured pads, the bolts that are supplied with just went right in and out of the other side the rubber boots.


Crap, it's too dark to work again, thought maybe I'd ask here to get a better idea tomorrow.
 

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i bought a reman napa caliper - it came pre-lubed and i re-used the bolts and everything worked ok, however when i removed it a couple months later to finally bolt up my wilwoods i found the OEM bolt seized to the new slider

i've had lots of issues with rear calipers seizing... i needed to constantly keep track of them, so your issue is not surprising... i'd take it all apart, clean it up and try it out again though
 

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I took a closer look, looks like the caliper bolts have gone through and are touching the rotors, scoring them :(
Did you get the bolts mixed up? One is longer than the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found the problem. The remanufactured duralast calipers came with a bolt (the shorter one) that was 4-5 mm longer than the oem, just enough to poke into the rotor. My fault for not sizing up the bolts before install, but this should have been an "exact fit".
 
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