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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well Toyota denied my request to replace the belt tensioner (I am out of the 3/36k). So I am trying to follow this TSB to get my belt tensioner , and fix it myself. My dad is a very good mechanic and I will have his assistance. If there is no available install guide with pics I will possibly try to make one, as this seems like it's going to be around for quite some time for the 00/01 owners of the world.

Now, it would appear there is a blanket NEW part number listed in this TSB .. (found here http://www.radphys.com/TSB_Belt_Tensioner.pdf )

the NEW part # is 16620-22031 and is labeled Belt Tensioner Assembly complete.

Now would I need that entire setup? or is there just a single part that I could use to do this job.

Also, I am going to need some sort of diagram of the belt assembly and locations.

thanks so much for all your help everyone!!!!
 

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Basically you can use the sub assembly & bolt listed in the TSB if you have no glazing on your pulleys and the idler on the tensioner assembly is smooth and the bearign has no wear you should be OK to do just that little piston and the belt. If you do have glaxing on your pulles I'd as fo a complete tensioner assembly and also take some scotch brite to your flat faced idlers and knock the glaze off them.

Either way remember that the new belt is reformulated rubber and is probably a good idea in addition to the tensioner assembly / sub assembly.

BTW - just a point of interest if you ever brought your bar in with this complaint prior to the end of your warranty and they failed to fix it, just call the Toyota 800 number and complain and you will most likely get the repair paid for.

Griffin
 

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Very good questoin actually. I'm looking t replacing it as well.

I dind't even think about getting the "sub assembly", but it sure would be nice to get an exploded diagram of all these parts.

Mine has been hosed long enough, I think I will probably replace the whole thing and the belt.

Price for the new belt and complete tensioner is $180+ shipping (form Jay Marks Toyota).

I assume if you just got the little shock absorber, then you would not need to go to the new belt part number?

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your help guys. We definitely do need an install guide for this thing. Cuz it's just out of hand, and I know I can't be the only one who is having this problem......

Am I going to need the Toyota Manual to do this , or is there a pdf floating around that I can grab for this????

thanks!
 

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autxr said:


I assume if you just got the little shock absorber, then you would not need to go to the new belt part number?

Scott
Up to you. the new belt is NOT a new length - its simply a different rubber composition.
 

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gts24 said:
Thanks for your help guys. We definitely do need an install guide for this thing. Cuz it's just out of hand, and I know I can't be the only one who is having this problem......

Am I going to need the Toyota Manual to do this , or is there a pdf floating around that I can grab for this????

thanks!
The TSB has very good instructions on it complete with line drawings...

Griffin
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Griffin said:


The TSB has very good instructions on it complete with line drawings...

Griffin

When I click the link in this thread that I posted, I JUST get the first page that has the part numbers listed on it. It does say on that page , page 1 of 2, but I definitely don't see a second page, In fact adobe acrobat states page 1 of 1.

Am I missing something here?
 

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Yeah, the TSB link we have only has page 1.

No matter, I just ordered the new belt and a new tensioner assembly, should come in just over $100 shipped (it's nice having connections).

It was worth $100 to me to NOT have to deal with the service department.

Now I just need a good deal on step bars for my Tundra.

Scott
 

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gts24 said:



When I click the link in this thread that I posted, I JUST get the first page that has the part numbers listed on it. It does say on that page , page 1 of 2, but I definitely don't see a second page, In fact adobe acrobat states page 1 of 1.

Am I missing something here?
Yeah page 2 has the instructions and drawings.

Basically R&R on it is straightforward. Have to take the front motor mounts loose on the GTS to jack the engine up and down a tad, but the most important thing is that once its on you have to pump it through its full range of motion 3 or 4 times to prime up the hydraulic cylinder. Word on the street is that if you don't do that the check ball in there can get stuck cavitating in air bubbles and cause rattling and improper belt tension.

Griffin
 

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I went thru quite a few online retailers. The first part was listed for a 2000 Celica, without the option of specifying GTS. So of course, the first part ordered is going back..The GT and GTS it appears are slightly different. Be aware ;-)
 

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I went thru quite a few online retailers. The first part was listed for a 2000 Celica, without the option of specifying GTS. So of course, the first part ordered is going back..The GT and GTS it appears are slightly different. Be aware ;-)
... reference doesnt mean revive lol.... u dont go updating the old testament now that we know how to use telescopes and learned all about science.

2000 GTS Turbo
To be fair, I literally had this issue twice when buying tensioners. I had to buy an ebay one the first time because nobody had a GT-S one, and when that inevitably shat out, I bought an OEM GT-S one from Monkey Wrench Racing.
 
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You went to Ebay, and I checked them out too, in addition to Amazon..I ordered the first one from RockAuto , who have always supplied the right part. I should have noticed though, that they just listed 1.8ltr, and not GTS or 2ZZ specifically, so I assumed both cars would be the same.. Ended up with PartsGeek, who referenced GTS.

I would hope, that someone benefits from adding to this 20 year old thread ;)
 

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You went to Ebay, and I checked them out too, in addition to Amazon..I ordered the first one from RockAuto , who have always supplied the right part. I should have noticed though, that they just listed 1.8ltr, and not GTS or 2ZZ specifically, so I assumed both cars would be the same.. Ended up with PartsGeek, who referenced GTS.

I would hope, that someone benefits from adding to this 20 year old thread ;)
RockAuto did not have any GT-S tensioners whenever I bought them, so I didn't go through them. Like you, I noticed that they did not specify GT or GT-S, and visually they were all the 1ZZ style. Also keep in mind the original part was superseded, so if you're replacing the original, the new one won't be exactly like it, but it will still work. Just make sure it's OEM and actually for the 2ZZ, as all aftermarket ones are known for being shoddy.

Be VERY careful with RockAuto, they're mostly reliable but I've been burned by them SEVERAL times: Beware Aftermarket Timing Cover Gaskets
 
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I forgot to mention. In my case, the tensioner was just fine, as the car only has 175k on the clock..the belt broke, and the nut you have to lever, was rounded off.. So, the car has been down a week now, because of such a simple issue. :cool:
 

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I forgot to mention. In my case, the tensioner was just fine, as the car only has 175k on the clock..the belt broke, and the nut you have to lever, was rounded off.. So, the car has been down a week now, because of such a simple issue. :cool:
Extremely common issue, I rounded mine out too. You gotta use a six point socket and rachet. A lot of people use wrenchs with an open end and twelve-point end, which plays out how you think.
 

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I use a 12 point ring on the aluminum 19mm post then link a 21mm ring onto the open end to give leverage.

every time.

it’s the bolt that attaches the tensioner to the head that needs the 6 point to undo. Round that off and it’s pretty much motor out .
 
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