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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
**Moderator might want to move this thread to Brakes or sticky it for future reference.**




CAUTION:
DO NOT allow reservoir to run dry during brake bleeding procedure. Use only clean brake fluid. Ensure no dirt or other foreign matter contaminates brake fluid. DO NOT mix different brands of brake fluid, as they may not be compatible. DO NOT spill brake fluid on vehicle, as it may damage paint. If brake fluid contacts paint, immediately wash with water.​



1. If master cylinder is rebuilt or reservoir is empty, bleed master cylinder first. Bleed wheels in sequence. Start on wheel with longest hydraulic line, and work toward wheel with shortest hydraulic line.

  • Rear Passenger
    Rear Driver
    Front Passenger
    Front Driver





2. Raise and support vehicle. Ensure brake fluid reservoir is at least half full during bleeding procedure. Connect one end of transparent vinyl tube to bleed screw. Submerge other end of tube in a container half filled with clean brake fluid.

3. Have an assistant depress brake pedal several times and hold in depressed position. Loosen bleed screw and drain fluid into container. Tighten bleed screw.

NOTE:
Ensure brake pedal remains depressed until bleed screw is tightened.​

4. Refill brake fluid reservoir as necessary. Repeat step 3 until air is no longer discharged. Tighten bleed screw to 74 INCH lbs. (8 N.m). Ensure fluid leakage is not present. Add fluid to reservoir. Repeat procedure for remaining wheels.
 

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thanks for the write up but some pics will really help me out
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Might as well bleed the clutch slave cylinder, too. It's fed from the same reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Works either way. People get a lot of free play in their pedals, just thoughts I'd throw this out there for those who don't know a common solution to the problem.
 

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lol i was using wiresless in my laptop and i guess that picture didnt show up..but now im at home and i see the pic silly me..thnx for the write up
 

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Tool kit for brake fluid bleeding.

You can buy a kit for bleeding brake fluid at part stores for about $7. It has a bottle, hoses etc...

Then you can bleed the brake fluid by yourself easily,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
PETER PAN said:
You can buy a kit for bleeding brake fluid at part stores for about $7. It has a bottle, hoses etc...

Then you can bleed the brake fluid by yourself easily,

Good Idea!


If you have Air Tools, you can also use a Pressurized Bleeder. A hydrolic lift or jack stands would be needed, like usual.
 

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With the Celica GTS, I bled in the sequence RR, RL, FR, FL. All air bubbles looked driven out of the lines.

The brake pedal feels firm, yet brake dust on wheels is heaviest at the FL, covering the wheel all black, then FR, RL RR. It looks like the FL brake is doing the most grabbing. I repeated bleeding a second time, the same problem remained.

What Am I doing wrong?

Is the sequence correct? I read bleeding front wheel-drive cars have to start from RR then diagonally to FL and RL and FR? I could not find this bleeding sequence in the Toyota's maintenance manual.

This guy says Celicas have a cross feed brake lines:

http://bgbonline.celicatech.com/89tech/brake system bleeding.pdf


BRAKE LINE BLEEDING SEQUENCE TABLE
All ....................................... LR, RF, RR, LF
 

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There is a kit with a cap fitted to the top of the master cylinder, linked to a brake fluid bottle.

Use the air from a tire to pressurize the bottle and pump the fluid into the master cylinder. That way you can bleed by yourself.

Good Idea!


If you have Air Tools, you can also use a Pressurized Bleeder. A hydrolic lift or jack stands would be needed, like usual.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Stuck caliper?
 

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Nothing was wrong with any brake before. Now the FL wheel has a lot more brake dust, easily 4 to 5 times, than other wheels.

This problem also happened to another GTS as I bled out and replaced old fluid. With the other car, I had to repeat bleeding 3 times before the brakes even out better.

I strongly suspect I bled the wrong sequence. Toyota's manual did not mention any .
 

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Bleed cross diagonal brake lines

Based on manual of other small cars with cross diagonal brake lines, this bleeding sequence should work for the GTS:

REAR LEFT

FRONT RIGHT

REAR RIGHT

FRONT LEFT (DRIVER)

Will try this sequence next.
 

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My sorta bad for being old school. RR, LF, LR, RF is the diagonal sequence. But, in all honesty, if you get the air out it shouldn't really matter.
This is a non-ABS GT-S?
 

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Not true. Honda published sequence for its cars with cross diagonal brake lines, starting from the driver brake. Toyota did not publish any sequence.

The 2 GTS both have ABS brakes. It looked like all air had been driven out of all 4 lines, but the driver side brake still grabs much harder than the rest, producing about 5 x brake dust and wearing down about 5 x as fast.

I found a way to bleed brake by myself, by turning on engine and hydraulic pumps, pumping the brake, jamming a 2x4 in between the brake and the seat to keep it down firm, then bleed the brakes. I jack up each wheel, removing the tire to bleed, then put the wheel back after. I can bleed all 4 wheels by myself in less than an hour. Asking another person to help is a pain in the tail pipe.

I did the cross diagonal sequence, starting with left rear driver side, RL FR RR FL in this 4th bleed. All wheels had 1 to 3-inch gap of air in the tube, except the RR, which I always bled first, is solid, no air. Previous 3 bleeds still left air in the lines, even though I was watching and filling the master cylinder. Test drove the car. Brakes worked fine.

I cleaned the wheels to monitor the new brake dust release after this bleed.

My sorta bad for being old school. RR, LF, LR, RF is the diagonal sequence. But, in all honesty, if you get the air out it shouldn't really matter.
This is a non-ABS GT-S?
 

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It was working fine before. The uneven grabbing started only after I bled out and refill fluid.

So there was something wrong with my filling and bleeding. The 4th bleed, using the cross diagonal sequence starting from the driver rear wheel, showed the passenger rear line full, no air. That line had always been bled first. All other lines had bubbles, between 1 to 2 inches of air in the tube. So the traditional bleeding sequence had problems.

I figured out a way to bleed the car by myself, using only 1 jack, wedging a 2x4 stud about 16 inches long between the brake pedal and the floor. Will watch the brake dust and may be bleeding again. I enjoy this exercise; sure beats jogging.

The ceramic pads grab much better than OEM pads, but produce lots of dust.

Have you taken that corner apart to check for stuck or seized stuff?
 
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