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Discussion Starter #1
There are four wires going to the stock O2 sensor. The AEM has a power, ground, signal and serial data wire.

Here's what the stock O2 has:

Pin 1: Y-R wire, pin called HT on O2 connector and HT1A (pin 3) on ECM. I am almost positive that this is the heater circuit for the sensor and I will not use it.

Pin 2: B-W wire, pin called +B on O2 connector. This is definitely the power source for the sensor.

Pin 3: B wire, pin called OX1A on O2 connector. Shielded wire goes to pin 12 on ECM, also called OX1A. I'm fairly sure this is the signal wire but not 100% positive.

Pin 4: BR wire, pin called E1 on O2 connector. Shielded wire, seems to go through some junction blocks and eventually to a ground point.

I basically want to verify that the black wire carries the signal to the ECM. I'm also concerned that if I unhook the heater wire, i will get a CEL. My current plan is to back out the pin for the heater element on the O2 side of the connector and then cut the wires to the sensor to make a pigtail. I'd really appreciate anyone's thoughts.
 

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Jesse IL said:
There are four wires going to the stock O2 sensor. The AEM has a power, ground, signal and serial data wire.

Here's what the stock O2 has:

Pin 1: Y-R wire, pin called HT on O2 connector and HT1A (pin 3) on ECM. I am almost positive that this is the heater circuit for the sensor and I will not use it.

Pin 2: B-W wire, pin called +B on O2 connector. This is definitely the power source for the sensor.

Pin 3: B wire, pin called OX1A on O2 connector. Shielded wire goes to pin 12 on ECM, also called OX1A. I'm fairly sure this is the signal wire but not 100% positive.

Pin 4: BR wire, pin called E1 on O2 connector. Shielded wire, seems to go through some junction blocks and eventually to a ground point.

I basically want to verify that the black wire carries the signal to the ECM. I'm also concerned that if I unhook the heater wire, i will get a CEL. My current plan is to back out the pin for the heater element on the O2 side of the connector and then cut the wires to the sensor to make a pigtail. I'd really appreciate anyone's thoughts.
Heres how ya do it:

AEM White wire goes to Factory black wire (yes that is the O2 sensor signal wire)

AEM brown and black wires go to Factory Brown wire for ground

AEM Red wire goes to factory Black wire with white tracer

If you have a device (like Power FC datalogit) that can read the 0-5 volt output from the sensor you use the orange wire for that.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sort of...

There are six wires going from the AEM gauge/controller to the sensor.

Red, Orange, Green, White, Black, Brown

From what I understand, in order for the gauge to work, you wouldn't want to cut these.

Then coming from the gauge/controller, there are four additional wires:

Red (power), Black (ground), White (signal, 0-5V programmable), and Blue (RS-232 datastream).

I was planning on hooking this red wire to the Blue/White wire going to the factory sensor, the Black wire to the Brown wire, and the White wire to the Black wire, leaving the Yellow/Red wire for the factory heater circuit floating.

The hookups you're recommending I believe are for the separate AEM controller, not the gauge-type controller. If your experience is from Smaay's car, I know he has the separate controller.
 

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Jesse IL said:
Sort of...

There are six wires going from the AEM gauge/controller to the sensor.

Red, Orange, Green, White, Black, Brown

LAMBDA#1 0-1V goes to the Ox1
Signal Ground and Battery ground both go to E1
Switched power goes to B+

The wires from the gauge itself should be for the gauge power and ground.
 

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We both have the controller type, not the gauge type, so i dont know if the wires are different....I have been on the AEM forums trying to find out houw to hook up just the gauge. Since the EMS and UEGO controller are in the trunk of the MR2 and the engine is between that and the cab...
 

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I have the gauge type, if you're connecting the wires to the stock sensor you're defeating the purpose of having a wideband....

get a bung installed into your exhaust in front of the stock 02 sensor put the wideband sensor in (you need to widen the hole through the firewall to get the whole harness through, connect the harness to the gauge harness.
Then connect the red wire to an ignition controlled power source and the black to ground and you're done.
 

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mrtomcat said:
I have the gauge type, if you're connecting the wires to the stock sensor you're defeating the purpose of having a wideband....

get a bung installed into your exhaust in front of the stock 02 sensor put the wideband sensor in (you need to widen the hole through the firewall to get the whole harness through, connect the harness to the gauge harness.
Then connect the red wire to an ignition controlled power source and the black to ground and you're done.
Hes going to be using the wideband to provide the signal to the stock ECU - hes connecting to the stock computer not the stock sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Boosted2.0 said:
Hes going to be using the wideband to provide the signal to the stock ECU - hes connecting to the stock computer not the stock sensor.
I have a Power FC.
 

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Originally posted by Boosted2.0
Hes going to be using the wideband to provide the signal to the stock ECU - hes connecting to the stock computer not the stock sensor.
What is that going to buy him? Out of curiousity

to Jessie

Also based on the AEM manual if you cut the wires you're killing the sensor so I'd suggest to give them a call and tell them what your plans are and see if that is even do able

if you have the power fc you can still connect it via either the serial wire or the EMS wire (if that works on the pfc)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mrtomcat said:
What is that going to buy him? Out of curiousity

to Jessie

Also based on the AEM manual if you cut the wires you're killing the sensor so I'd suggest to give them a call and tell them what your plans are and see if that is even do able

if you have the power fc you can still connect it via either the serial wire or the EMS wire (if that works on the pfc)
I'll see if I can answer these questions:

Using the AEM UEGO to the stock ECU will give better resolution over the stock sensor, even configured in the 0-1V output.

I have no plans on cutting any of the wires going between the sensor and the gauge. I think Boosted perhaps doesn't understand that the gauge itself is the controller in this instance.

On the PFC, you can set it up to read O2 sensor as an entire 0-5V range, taking advantage of the entire resolution of the wideband.
 

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From their Faq section:

Q:
Can I change the sensor
 

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I have no idea - maybe your wiring is more different from the non gauge type than I though- can you post a scan of teh wiring layout picture that came with the sensor/gauge?
 

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Jesse IL said:
Here's what the stock O2 has:

Pin 1: Y-R wire, pin called HT on O2 connector and HT1A (pin 3) on ECM. I am almost positive that this is the heater circuit for the sensor and I will not use it.

Pin 2: B-W wire, pin called +B on O2 connector. This is definitely the power source for the sensor.

Pin 3: B wire, pin called OX1A on O2 connector. Shielded wire goes to pin 12 on ECM, also called OX1A. I'm fairly sure this is the signal wire but not 100% positive.

Pin 4: BR wire, pin called E1 on O2 connector. Shielded wire, seems to go through some junction blocks and eventually to a ground point.
Pin 1 is the heater ground wire for the sensor - the stock ECU grounds it to turn on the O2 sensor heater
Pin 2 is battery voltage supply for the sensor heater
Pin 3 is is the signal wire for the sensor - the sensor generates a 0-1v signal which is passed along this wire.
Pin 4 is the ground

This is to confirm - you GTG now Jesse?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Re: Bought AEM UEGO...how to hook it up?

Boosted2.0 said:
Pin 1 is the heater ground wire for the sensor - the stock ECU grounds it to turn on the O2 sensor heater
Pin 2 is battery voltage supply for the sensor heater
Pin 3 is is the signal wire for the sensor - the sensor generates a 0-1v signal which is passed along this wire.
Pin 4 is the ground

This is to confirm - you GTG now Jesse?
Yeah, I was pretty much sure that was right. I was just worried that if I left Pin 1 floating, it would cause a check engine light.
 

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Out of curiosity how long do you think the sensor is good for?
How much does it cost to get a replacement?
Can you wire this into PowerFC/Datalogit?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
cool2miketlu said:
Out of curiosity how long do you think the sensor is good for?
How much does it cost to get a replacement?
Can you wire this into PowerFC/Datalogit?
1. Don't really know.

2. A couple hundred bucks at the moment from what I've heard.

3. Yes. There is apparently a way in the setup to utilize the entire 0-5V signal for the O2. You just wire it into the stock O2 signal wire, which is what I'm gonna do.

I'm installing the thing tonight. I want to see what type of A/F's I'm running in lift, because people driving behind me report a Spy Hunteresque cloud of black smoke cominng from my car at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One more quetion...there are two different 0-1V calibrations:

Autronic Wideband O2 Sensor

and

non-linear Nerst Cell

My money is on the "wideband" calibration from what I remember reading about Toyota O2 sensors.
 
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