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Discussion Starter #1
I recently replaced the front brakes and brake lines on my 7th Gen GT. The master is also brand new, and was installed at the shop a few months back. Bled the rear and front from furthest from the master to closest. Turn the car on after sitting through the winter and I have no brake pedal. Like none. Goes straight to the floor and also affects the idle, dropping in RPMs.

This led me to believe their is a vacuum problem related to the brakes. Checked the hose from intake to brake booster check valve which is good. Checked the check valve which flows properly. I'm stumped. Has any one had a brake booster itself fail and how could you tell? (I am under the impression that this is uncommon and would still have some kind of pedal pressure if it were the brake booster itself.)
 

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You should have pedal pressure w/o the car running. I seem to also recall that the Celica's bleed process is a bit different.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You should have pedal pressure w/o the car running. I seem to also recall that the Celica's bleed process is a bit different.
I do have a little bit of pressure when the car is off. what would that tell you?

Also do you know where I could find a Celica specific brake bleeding procedure?
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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I do have a little bit of pressure when the car is off. what would that tell you?
That you probably need to bleed. LOL As you bleed, the pedal should engage higher w/each line & be solid (doesn't sink much after pressing) when complete.


Supposedly, bleeding needs to done cross diagonally:

RR-LF-LR-RF
or
LR-RF-RR-LF

Evidently, the Celica's proportioning valve splits diagonally vs. the older front/rear style.

Admittedly, your RPM issue is puzzling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Supposedly, bleeding needs to done cross diagonally:

RR-LF-LR-RF
or
LR-RF-RR-LF

Evidently, the Celica's proportioning valve splits diagonally vs. the older front/rear style.
Okay where would I find the Toyota recommended procedure though? I'm assuming the RR-LF-LR-RF pattern would be most accurate with a cross diagonal proportioning valve but I think it would help to see the layout of the brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Also performed another test to check the booster itself: disconnected the vacuum line to the booster and plugged it closed. Turned on the car and pedal remained firm.

This leads mean to believe it's a bad booster. Anyone have a different opinion?
 
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