NewCelica.org Forum banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,080 Posts
What is the part number for the Harbor Freight Gear puller set?

No problems with pulling the gears with the puller? Does it seem like good enough quality to use it a few times before it would break?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Pullers listed & difficulty level

Yes, good question - can you really tear down the transmission with the puller listed? I've rebuilt all sorts of motors, removed transmissions but never opened them up. I assumed it would be too difficult to rebuild a manual but from what I've found out it does not look that difficult? Am I missing something here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Is Billybrun still around? I wanted to ask him how the ol' Phantom Grip held up and if it worked out well.
I'm still around, but I left the country once again. I'm back in the sand box...

About the Phantom grip LSD, it looked ok, I guess, when I pulled it out. I sold the old differential with it in it. It still had tension, but I wanted a Helical LSD this time, they work a lot better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
A question for Billybrun. At any stage of this rebuild did you need the services of a press to remove the input shaft bearing or press the gears back onto the shafts or for anything else?
YES, I really don't see how I would've done it without a press. I used the press at work, it was fast and easy to install and remove the gears and bearings.
.
.
.
I just noticed the date on the last reply, lol I've been busy over here, lost track of time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I'm doing this after an unfortunate incident. My transmission decided to give up after 8 years of demanding driving, not abuse. The transmission started making this awful clunking noises and what seemed like skipping.

Took the transmission out of the car and opened it to find the output shaft pinion gear along with the differential ring gear totally messed up. Now, since second gear was grinding really bad for a while now, I was planning on doing a syncro job and transmission rebuild anyways. This was my perfect excuse.
I'll try and help those after me that want to tackle this project by listing parts and procedures that were a little hard to get, especially since some procedures are different when installing and LSD into the C60 transmission.

Parts list with part numbers:

  • Toyota MR-S Spyder JDM helical LSD (limited slip differential) 41301-20230
  • Throwout bearing 31230-12191 (new part number)
  • Ring gear 41221-12490 (new part number)
  • Output shaft 33321-20180
  • Second gear 33332-12150 (new part number)
  • Second gear syncro 33038-20010
  • Differential front bearing 90366-40097
  • Differential back bearing 90366-40094
  • Differential speedo gear 33481-20160
  • Shift fork, 1st, 2nd and reverse 33212-10013
  • Transaxle overhaul gasket kit 04331-20080
  • First gear syncro 33367-20070
  • Reverse gear (1st and 2nd shift sleeve) 33331-12060 (new part number)
  • Output shaft front bearing 90365-33006
  • Input shaft front bearing 90365-25021
  • 3rd Gear: 33034-20071 (new part number)
  • 3rd Gear Syncro: 33368-20080 (new part number)
  • 4th Gear: 33035-20181 (new part number)
  • 4th Gear Syncro: 33368-12210 (new part number)
  • 3rd and 4th shift Sleeve: 33364-12030 (new part number)
Now, when it came down to special tools needed to remove the bearings and gears, the recommended by toyota cost a pretty penny and people always break gears while taking them out, so it's not that good anyways. I found a $29 Harbor Freight bearing puller kit that worked perfectly without damaging any gears.





Since I'm installing a helical type LSD, a different procedure is required to set the differential bearings preload. As per MR-S Spyder and Lotus service manuals, instead of just closing and torquing the transmission housing only with the differential inside like you would do it for an open differential, you have to close and torque the transmission housing with the fully assembled output shaft and the fully assembled differential (LSD) and ring gear, then check the torque it takes to start to move the output shaft as opposed to the differential on an open one. Oh, also the torque on the ring gear is different when installing it on an LSD, instead of 57 ft/lbs is 74 ft/lbs.

Bearing preload (at starting):

New bearings: 0.17-0.35 Nm (1.7-3.6 kgf.cm) (1.5-3.09 in/lbs)
Used bearings: 0.11-0.22 Nm (1.1-2.2 kgf.cm) (0.97-1.94 in/lbs)
Adjustments made are the same as for non lsd, there is no special oil requirement for the lsd.

If you need to make adjustments to the preload, you'll need shims, the ones that go under the differential bearing race on the transmission side. My tranny was out of specs by 2 in/lbs, it came with the DD shim, which is 2.25mm so I'll go with a 2.30mm. Every 0.05mm adjustment should bring the torque up or down 2 to 3 in/lbs. Here is a list of shims:

AA 2.10mm 90564-41014
BB 2.15mm 90564-41015
CC 2.20mm 90564-41016
DD 2.25mm 90564-41017
EE 2.30mm 90564-41018
FF 2.35mm 90564-41019
GG 2.40mm 90564-41020
HH 2.45mm 90564-41021
JJ 2.50mm 90564-41022
KK 2.55mm 90564-41023
LL 2.60mm 90564-41024
MM 2.65mm 90564-41025

There're more, let me know if you need any more part numbers.

Correct procedure to check preload on LSD differential bearings.



Some parts came in.



JDM Toyota helical LSD.



Stock open differential with 8 years old Phantom Grip LSD.



Damaged output shaft.



Stock flywheel resurfaced. I don't like lighter than stock flywheels.



Removing gears from damaged output shaft.



Input shaft waiting to be disassembled.



Bell housing with new bearings installed.
For the Toyota C150 manual transmission, you're supposed to check the preload at the output, where the CV axle slides in.
I'm doing this after an unfortunate incident. My transmission decided to give up after 8 years of demanding driving, not abuse. The transmission started making this awful clunking noises and what seemed like skipping.

Took the transmission out of the car and opened it to find the output shaft pinion gear along with the differential ring gear totally messed up. Now, since second gear was grinding really bad for a while now, I was planning on doing a syncro job and transmission rebuild anyways. This was my perfect excuse.
I'll try and help those after me that want to tackle this project by listing parts and procedures that were a little hard to get, especially since some procedures are different when installing and LSD into the C60 transmission.

Parts list with part numbers:

  • Toyota MR-S Spyder JDM helical LSD (limited slip differential) 41301-20230
  • Throwout bearing 31230-12191 (new part number)
  • Ring gear 41221-12490 (new part number)
  • Output shaft 33321-20180
  • Second gear 33332-12150 (new part number)
  • Second gear syncro 33038-20010
  • Differential front bearing 90366-40097
  • Differential back bearing 90366-40094
  • Differential speedo gear 33481-20160
  • Shift fork, 1st, 2nd and reverse 33212-10013
  • Transaxle overhaul gasket kit 04331-20080
  • First gear syncro 33367-20070
  • Reverse gear (1st and 2nd shift sleeve) 33331-12060 (new part number)
  • Output shaft front bearing 90365-33006
  • Input shaft front bearing 90365-25021
  • 3rd Gear: 33034-20071 (new part number)
  • 3rd Gear Syncro: 33368-20080 (new part number)
  • 4th Gear: 33035-20181 (new part number)
  • 4th Gear Syncro: 33368-12210 (new part number)
  • 3rd and 4th shift Sleeve: 33364-12030 (new part number)
Now, when it came down to special tools needed to remove the bearings and gears, the recommended by toyota cost a pretty penny and people always break gears while taking them out, so it's not that good anyways. I found a $29 Harbor Freight bearing puller kit that worked perfectly without damaging any gears.





Since I'm installing a helical type LSD, a different procedure is required to set the differential bearings preload. As per MR-S Spyder and Lotus service manuals, instead of just closing and torquing the transmission housing only with the differential inside like you would do it for an open differential, you have to close and torque the transmission housing with the fully assembled output shaft and the fully assembled differential (LSD) and ring gear, then check the torque it takes to start to move the output shaft as opposed to the differential on an open one. Oh, also the torque on the ring gear is different when installing it on an LSD, instead of 57 ft/lbs is 74 ft/lbs.

Bearing preload (at starting):

New bearings: 0.17-0.35 Nm (1.7-3.6 kgf.cm) (1.5-3.09 in/lbs)
Used bearings: 0.11-0.22 Nm (1.1-2.2 kgf.cm) (0.97-1.94 in/lbs)
Adjustments made are the same as for non lsd, there is no special oil requirement for the lsd.

If you need to make adjustments to the preload, you'll need shims, the ones that go under the differential bearing race on the transmission side. My tranny was out of specs by 2 in/lbs, it came with the DD shim, which is 2.25mm so I'll go with a 2.30mm. Every 0.05mm adjustment should bring the torque up or down 2 to 3 in/lbs. Here is a list of shims:

AA 2.10mm 90564-41014
BB 2.15mm 90564-41015
CC 2.20mm 90564-41016
DD 2.25mm 90564-41017
EE 2.30mm 90564-41018
FF 2.35mm 90564-41019
GG 2.40mm 90564-41020
HH 2.45mm 90564-41021
JJ 2.50mm 90564-41022
KK 2.55mm 90564-41023
LL 2.60mm 90564-41024
MM 2.65mm 90564-41025

There're more, let me know if you need any more part numbers.

Correct procedure to check preload on LSD differential bearings.



Some parts came in.



JDM Toyota helical LSD.



Stock open differential with 8 years old Phantom Grip LSD.



Damaged output shaft.



Stock flywheel resurfaced. I don't like lighter than stock flywheels.



Removing gears from damaged output shaft.



Input shaft waiting to be disassembled.



Bell housing with new bearings installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
But, obviously, as the author pointed out, when you check the preload with an LSD differential, you do it on the output shaft instead of directly on the bearing.
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top