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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I have a question about the correct camber for my suspension. I have an
 

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what kind of wear did you get? are you sure it was camber causing the problem? do you know what the alignment specs were when you had it done?

how many miles over those 2 years and what kind of tires?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It was uneven wear. And the tires I had were Kuhmo 711's, now I know they are a crappy tire, but I have only had them on for 12k miles. I no longer have the print out of the specs from when I had the alignment done. But when I got the alignment done I had the dealer fax me the specs and I took that to the tire shop and told them to match it. For them to match it they said they had to instal a camber bolt, not knowing what that was at the time he explained it to me and I thought it would be good.
 

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i need to know this as well....

I installed my tein SS last week and i am goin to install my tires tommorrow. Therefore im goin to get an alignment as well tommorrow. Its dropped about 1.5 - 2.0" rite now but im goin to lower it more b4 i go to the shop. I was wondering if i needed new camber bolts or links? i want about 1.3 degree camber all around.
-minh
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why do you want 1.3 degrees of camber, what are you doing with the car, what is going to be the benefit of that, what will be some of the cons too. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to gain a little knowledge here.

Thanks
 

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I beleive that for the front you won't need any sort of camber plate or bolt for Toyota's specs (-1 degree I think) or a bit more aggressive. The way the front suspension is on a Celica you don't need to worry about it unless you drive around on a 3-4" drop or want an alignment that's more aggressive. On my Teins with a drop of more than 1.5" it was close to stock specs. I have camber plates so I went a full -2 degrees for the front because I can. I know from my experience that with a drop of 2" or more the back camber was out -3 degrees. The back looked like this /\ while the front remained straight to the eye. That could only be fixed with camber links from Hotchkis or something similar if there is anything. Don't worry too much about the front, but the back depending on the drop. You will need the camber links.
 

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dfera said:
Why do you want 1.3 degrees of camber, what are you doing with the car, what is going to be the benefit of that, what will be some of the cons too. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to gain a little knowledge here.

Thanks

Camber is the angle of the tire, relative to a perpendicular line drawn intersected to the ground. Basically, it is how straight up the tire sits on the ground. Most people go with negative camber (tires leaning slightly in towards the car) for more traction in high-speed cornering situations--the tire will roll over onto it's full contact patch during full weight transfer. The problem with this is obvious: during most driving you will get uneven wear (more wear on the inside) and less straight line traction.



Jon
 

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if you wore Kumho 711's unevenly that quickly, I'd bet it was a toe issue, not camber. Either the shop screwed up your alignment or you hit something and knocked the toe out.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mmmm, never thought of the toe.....
So I guess it would be a good idea to the rear camber links (rear), and I should be ok with the Eiback camber bolts for the front?
 
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