NewCelica.org Forum banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Crankshaft Pulley Harmonic Balancer replacement

Hello all, new user here. I just purchased a Celica GT-S as an anniversary gift for my wife earlier this month and I'm in the process of getting it past the safety inspection.

One of the things I was cited for was the camshaft pulley needing to be replaced. According to the mechanic that did the inspection the pulley was deteriorating and the belt tension was the only thing keeping everything spinning.

I've been going through the guides on here and it doesn't look like there is a write up solely for the replacement of this part, but from the writes ups for other stuff and the manual I should be able to figure it out.

The only question I have is do I have to set the timing after the camshaft pulley is replaced? From what I can tell (and I may be wrong) since the timing chain is under another cover, replacing the camshaft pulley shouldn't require setting the timing again.

Thanks for any help.
 

·
Electromagnetic Wave :-h
Joined
·
15,636 Posts
Crank pulley. Use only OEM. Yes, you're not changing the timing.
 

·
Work Done, Sexy Time.
Joined
·
2,835 Posts
WHAT?? I don't even understand that statement, is it rusting so bad that chunks are coming off? That really doesn't make sense to me, it's a pulley and yes I've removed and/or replaced plenty of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure myself. When looking at that picture I posted it looks like the ribs of the pulley and part of the edge are missing. At least that's what I make of it. Anyway, I've got a new one so I'll be switching it out sometime this week. Would have done it this weekend, but all I have is a 12pt 19mm wrench and I read somewhere that it would round off the tensioner pulley nut of I used that one. Couldn't for the life of me find a 6pt one this weekend at a store. All the kits stopped at 17mm. :marky:

In other news, I pulled valve cover off and found that this car still had the old lift bolts and indeed the intake one had broken off. The rocker shaft (correct me if I'm wrong) is partly turned, but I can still see about 80% of the broken off bolt. I think from the write up's I've seen I can take the cam wheel off and turn the rocker shaft back into the proper position to expose the bolt and then pull it out with an easy out.

The reason I'm not sure if I'm going to use the proper TSB method is I don't know if it's sitting in the shaft flush and I don't want to scratch anything while trying to push it out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,227 Posts
its not the camshaft, its the crankshaft balancer. it is very difficult to get the crankbolt off and you might need a puller to get the pulley off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks Smaay, updated the title of the thread. Thanks everyone for the help.

Ended up working on other stuff as well. Worked on the lift bolts first, and found that they were never replaced. I got the broken bolt out, but now I'm having trouble getting the timing belt tensioner reset.

So to take a brake from that I worked on the pulley, and wow the mechanic was right, this thing looks messed up.



Anyway, my problem now is that when I was going to replace the crankshaft pulley with a new one the size was different. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct size? I got one from Advance Auto and it's larger then the one that came off the car.



The one Advance gave me measures in around 133mm. I actually went back with the one I got from Advance and the one from the car and the guy said, "Nope, that's what's listed for the car." So I'm not sure if the one off the car is the correct size, or if Advance has the wrong part listed.

Thanks for any help!

Oh, fun surprise, when I took the passenger wheel off (to try to get to serpentine tensioner bolt from underneath) I realized that two of the bolts on the wheel hub were broken off. The wheel was only on with three bolts and they weren't on opposite sides of each other.
:mad:
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,305 Posts
Wow, I thought I had seen everything hahaha.

The reason why the old pulley is smaller is because it is missing the outer ribbed ring entirely. The belt was just turning around the rubber vibration absorber that sits between the inner pulley and the outer ring.
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,305 Posts
Here's a pic from Smaay's write-up for your reference.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, so that means the previous owner just slapped a new different sized belt on there and went their merry way to sell the car.

Nice!

:marky:
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,305 Posts
Yep.

With age the rubber becomes hard and starts breaking. The outer rings eventually comes loose. I would never imagine someone would slap a belt on that but there is at least one other thread on here where someone had a similar experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys, with your help and the how to guides I was able to put on a new pulley, fix the lift bolts and install new injectors. But then I was an idiot.

I took the car out for a test drive and decided to see if the lift was working, ran it through gears one and two when a check engine light came on and then the engine started making a knocking sound.

Drove it back home (about three minutes), and hooked up the scanner. I can't remember the exact code but it was something to do with the OCV I think.

Anyway, if it turns out to be a spun bearing I guess I'm going to have to get a new engine. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Thanks guys, with your help and the how to guides I was able to put on a new pulley, fix the lift bolts and install new injectors. But then I was an idiot.

I took the car out for a test drive and decided to see if the lift was working, ran it through gears one and two when a check engine light came on and then the engine started making a knocking sound.

Drove it back home (about three minutes), and hooked up the scanner. I can't remember the exact code but it was something to do with the OCV I think.

Anyway, if it turns out to be a spun bearing I guess I'm going to have to get a new engine. :(
lol did you remember to put oil back in the car? if it's rod bearings, just pop off the oil pan and place the new bearings from the oil pan area. if it was an RPM Based time knock (Increased with engine RPM) then yea, it's a spun bearing. if it's a steady knock at all RPM's then I would look somewhere else. good luck, post your findings here.
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,305 Posts
Get a new oil pump if you are rebuilding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, finally got around to taking it apart today. I'm guessing it looks bad?



I don't know, but for some reason the sides are more deformed on the bearings?



So my question is, if I smooth out the surfaces and put in new bearings will it last long enough until I can rebuild or get a new engine in the spring time?

Thanks again for any help.
 

·
Electromagnetic Wave :-h
Joined
·
15,636 Posts
Probably not. In my case the main bearing was worn, causing low oil pressure to the rod bearing. It just ate up the replacement rod bearings. But, you can try.
 

·
Daddy Daycare
Joined
·
20,305 Posts
The bearing spun, that's why it is deformed. Polishing isn't going to help you, it will spin the new bearing again the moment you get on it a little harder than light throttle to 3000 rpm.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top