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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Alright, so I got a new engine off E-bay from an 03 Celica GT-S with 93k miles. It should be arriving tomorrow. I've been reading up on the different engine types and correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the only difference between the 00 and 03 engines was the DBW correct?

And if that's the case since I already have a 2000 I should be able to swap over an intake manifold that has the throttle cable and throttle body correct?

Of course I'm probably completely wrong and have bitten off more than I can chew. Thanks for any help guys.
 

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look to see if it has air injection in the head. if it does you can tap the holes with 1/8 NPT and run a plug in there. tap it with the engine upside down so the chips dont fall in the ports
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
That took awhile...

Well, that took longer than I thought it would. :ugh:

Wanted to give an update. Just finished putting the car back together with the new engine and everything seems to be OK. However, I seem to be having the same issue as the guy in this thread after putting a new engine in. Engine is overheating after a few minutes of driving, and when I put the heat on I only get cold air. So looks like I have to bleed the coolant system.

Had a few gotcha moments while doing this, like the previous owners stripping bolts for the exhaust pipe, and of course bolts breaking and having to be re-tapped. Other than that, and the over heating, the car seems to be running fine.

Oh, and to anyone asking, yes I replaced a bunch of stuff while I was in there, including the head gasket, intake/exhaust gaskets, water pump, oil pump, front and rear main seal, checked the bearings, replaced the lift bolts (which this was an engine that had the original lift bolts but somehow they weren't broken??), and other stuff I'm forgetting to mention. A fun time was had by all involved. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Well, the car made it past emissions today and is now running fine... sorta. The only problem is I get a P1693 sometimes when going into lift. If I don't go past the lift engagement RPM then there are no problems. I say sometimes because lift has worked when I tested 2-3 times, and then sometimes it just doesn't.

I followed the threads and made some wiring to test if the OCV was working. When I engage it the car doesn't completely cut out, but just starts running rough like it's about to cut out. The oil pressure switch is the one that came with the engine and looks a bit rusty so I'm wondering if that might not be working correctly?

Can I just get an oil switch from a parts store and swap it on to test? Looks like they're about $13.

Thanks for any help!
 

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You could, worth a shot. Have lift bolts been checked? I would assume you did that before installing the head and being a later year part should have had the revised ones, maybe.

Just read that those were replaced, my bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yep, new lift bolts were installed. Picked up a new oil sensor. I'll try that and report back.

BTW, any idea what I should do with the old engine? I'm thinking of keeping it just to learn more about engines, but at the same time don't know when I'd get around to actually doing that. lol
 

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Well, the car made it past emissions today and is now running fine... sorta. The only problem is I get a P1693 sometimes when going into lift. If I don't go past the lift engagement RPM then there are no problems. I say sometimes because lift has worked when I tested 2-3 times, and then sometimes it just doesn't.

I followed the threads and made some wiring to test if the OCV was working. When I engage it the car doesn't completely cut out, but just starts running rough like it's about to cut out. The oil pressure switch is the one that came with the engine and looks a bit rusty so I'm wondering if that might not be working correctly?

Can I just get an oil switch from a parts store and swap it on to test? Looks like they're about $13.

Thanks for any help!
Not sure if you're still having that problem. Check the ocv filters, aka: vvt filter, aka: engine oil filter (not the one you replace every oil change). They're 2 little screens in the engine block that tends to throw the ocv code when they clog up. One is right behind the the alternator (you have to remove it) you'll see a 14mm bolt that's holding nothing, remove it, the screen is inside that bolt hole. And the other one is on the driver side of the engine block, you need to remove the battery and maybe some hoses out of the way to access it; there's like, 6(ish) nuts and bolts holding the ocv unit there, remove it, and you'll see the screen inside one of the holes. There's a couple YouTube videos on it, be prepared for a little oil mess to come out from the driver side filter, and remember the orientation when you are removing them.
 

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I forgot to add - I found and removed them, cleaned them up (brake/parts cleaner) nicely, waited for them to dry, and put everything back... The code went away and i was able to hit lift. I believe they need to be checked/cleaned every 15,000ish miles.
 

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I forgot to add - I found and removed them, cleaned them up (brake/parts cleaner) nicely, waited for them to dry, and put everything back... The code went away and i was able to hit lift. I believe they need to be checked/cleaned every 15,000ish miles.
That's not normal, at all. I checked mine at about 90K and they were clean as could be and had never been out. If they're clogged it's either lack of oil change frequency causing sludge or there's something in your engine making debris. You need to see why you had clogged filters, it's not normal.

Sent from my SM-G892U using Tapatalk
 
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