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Replace your Oil Squirters, the original Squirters require higher oil pressure to activate, Get the MWR Oil Squirters, they are much better, and replace the oil pan from a 1ZZ Engine because those pans have a oil baffle at the oil pick up to avoid oil starvation on hard cornering. The 2ZZ engine oil pans are just a cereal bowl. Get the Billet oil pump, don't replace with the sintered metal oil pump. A new TRD oil cooler would be a consideration. I used a used oil cooler off a 96 Camry, but ordered the threaded connecting oil filter tube from Japan. I've never had any problems with it, my engine never gets hot and it cools my oil down. Much cheaper than a TRD oil cooler that were standard equipment on overseas Celicas....Just my two cents worth.
I hear you, my Celica sat in my garage for 4 months until I could afford all the parts needed, but I wanted to make it dependable too. I figured since I had it opened up, I’d do the most I could do with the finances I had at the time, I’m glad I did. That oil cooler ran me about $10.00 at a junk yard. But spent about $20.00 for the threaded tube for the filter. Good luck in getting your Celi back on the road, they are fun to drive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I hear you, my Celica sat in my garage for 4 months until I could afford all the parts needed, but I wanted to make it dependable too. I figured since I had it opened up, I’d do the most I could do with the finances I had at the time, I’m glad I did. That oil cooler ran me about $10.00 at a junk yard. But spent about $20.00 for the threaded tube for the filter. Good luck in getting your Celi back on the road, they are fun to drive!
That's looking about my time frame for this rebuild, still waiting on the socket, and just hoping that all my tolerances check out and the cylinder walls aren't destroyed. So far I for sure need a new Intake Cam, Rocker Arms, VVT Sprocket, and Main Bearings. I'm hoping the valvetrain is otherwise fine, and that nothing else is abnormally worn. The engine only had 160k miles, has no sludge and minimal signs of wear so I don't see an urgent need to replace things that can easily last another 160k miles. I also don't want to change much of the inherent design of the car since it performs more than well-enough for my needs, and I don't want to add more things that would make it harder to maintain.
 

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I think you want big end or con rod bearings NOT mains.

mains require you drop the crank out of the web.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I think you want big end or con rod bearings NOT mains.

mains require you drop the crank out of the web.
Wouldn't they both be trashed if I pushed the engine with no oil? I get that it's extra work, but I probably should at least inspect them.
 

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Wouldn't they both be trashed if I pushed the engine with no oil? I get that it's extra work, but I probably should at least inspect them.
Yes, pull it inspect the crank replace bearings.

I think there is an odd size hex you have to remove when pulling the caps to get to a few bolts on the cradle i cant rember what size it was but i know i didnt have it in my toolbox

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You can strip most of what you want withe the Engine still insitu.. if you want to pull the crank and look at mains, it’s engine out.
Then, even if they are ok you’ll need to replace them.
It’s not like the common older motors where you’d pop a centre main cap and number 4 big end to judge the rest from them
 

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You can strip most of what you want withe the Engine still insitu.. if you want to pull the crank and look at mains, it’s engine out.
Then, even if they are ok you’ll need to replace them.
It’s not like the common older motors where you’d pop a centre main cap and number 4 big end to judge the rest from them
Yeah id strong recommend pulling the engine anyway it only takes like 2 hours tops, ur first time pulling it may take longer but hell if u got the tools u may as well so it to make life easy.

Iv had done it so many times i can do it under an hour

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah id strong recommend pulling the engine anyway it only takes like 2 hours tops, ur first time pulling it may take longer but hell if u got the tools u may as well so it to make life easy.

Iv had done it so many times i can do it under an hour

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I've pulled and torn down engines before, and I'm pretty experienced with the layout of the 2ZZ/C60 combo, so it wouldn't be too much extra skin off my back. The biggest issue I will have is not having an engine lift, nor engine stand, but I have workarounds for both of those. I looked up the tools necessary, it seems like I have everything I need except for the headbolt socket (which is otw now), as soon as that comes in the head is ready to come off as everything else has been removed except for the head bolts. Then I'll be able to check out the cylinder walls which atm are my biggest concern, since if those are trashed I might as well replace the entire engine.
 

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No . Sleeving is a viable option for your case. But that’s all hypothetical for now. You’re not building a race motor so price up sleeving locally then decide on pistons if required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
No . Sleeving is a viable option for your case. But that’s all hypothetical for now. You’re not building a race motor so price up sleeving locally then decide on pistons if required.
Sleeving isn't a route I really want to go down considering that if anything needs to be machined, I'll be running well into the 2k range price-wise, and way more if I have to replace the pistons and rods as well. By that point, I just can't afford to salvage it and will be better off selling the chassis and getting a new car to hold me over. Otherwise, she isn't going to be running for quiet a while. That's why I'm doing my best right now to figure out what exactly is still within tolerance and I'm going to reuse as much as possible after a thorough inspection and cleaning.

Most everything removed so far looks basically new. Everything that was on the outside of the engine IS brand new. This is a daily-driver that will likely not see any track use, and is kept mostly within it's limits. It's performed perfectly fine so far outside of this freak failure, and most of the performance parts offer very little in meaningful gains for the price they're at, especially in a DD situation. The only thing I'd really want is the knife-edged crankshaft and that's mainly cause it's still OEM. Everything else makes no real sense unless I'm building the block to make major power, or outright thrashing the car on a track.
 

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Sleeving isn't a route I really want to go down considering that if anything needs to be machined, I'll be running well into the 2k range price-wise, and way more if I have to replace the pistons and rods as well. By that point, I just can't afford to salvage it and will be better off selling the chassis and getting a new car to hold me over. Otherwise, she isn't going to be running for quiet a while. That's why I'm doing my best right now to figure out what exactly is still within tolerance and I'm going to reuse as much as possible after a thorough inspection and cleaning.

Most everything removed so far looks basically new. Everything that was on the outside of the engine IS brand new. This is a daily-driver that will likely not see any track use, and is kept mostly within it's limits. It's performed perfectly fine so far outside of this freak failure, and most of the performance parts offer very little in meaningful gains for the price they're at, especially in a DD situation. The only thing I'd really want is the knife-edged crankshaft and that's mainly cause it's still OEM. Everything else makes no real sense unless I'm building the block to make major power, or outright thrashing the car on a track.
Ur better off with a lightweight flywheel than knife edging. I didnt even do that on my build.

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Ur better off with a lightweight flywheel than knife edging. I didnt even do that on my build.

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Already have it, I figured a lightweight crankshaft would be a nice gain without changing anything inherent to the engine and would pair well with the flywheel.
 

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I priced up sleeping and decking one of my blocks today. $880 . I think your pricing will be cheaper as it will be more common over there. That’s just using the engine shops usual sleeves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I priced up sleeping and decking one of my blocks today. $880 . I think your pricing will be cheaper as it will be more common over there. That’s just using the engine shops usual sleeves.
That's pretty good, over here it costs nearly that much just to get the block measured and machined. I don't live in an area that does that kind of thing often so everything is inflated.
 

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That's pretty good, over here it costs nearly that much just to get the block measured and machined. I don't live in an area that does that kind of thing often so everything is inflated.
Im right there with u, when i called for quotes on getting my block sleeved they wanted 1500 just in labor. Plus the sleeves were 4 or 500

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Im right there with u, when i called for quotes on getting my block sleeved they wanted 1500 just in labor. Plus the sleeves were 4 or 500

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Yeah.... Exactly why I'm trying to risk cheaping out here where I can, but I just want to be smart with how I do it.
 

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Holy cow..

12 months ago I asked another shop who said $760 .
Yesterday’s said 165 per hole sleeve & hone plus 220 to deck the block. I asked plus sleeves? Nope including sleeves . As I won’t be reving much to 8 grand ( 7 -7500) and running a little sloppy on clearances I’m not too worried about what sleeves.
 

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Holy cow..

12 months ago I asked another shop who said $760 .
Yesterday’s said 165 per hole sleeve & hone plus 220 to deck the block. I asked plus sleeves? Nope including sleeves . As I won’t be reving much to 8 grand ( 7 -7500) and running a little sloppy on clearances I’m not too worried about what sleeves.
Yeah i would have had it done but the sleeves at the time were on a 3 month backorder. So my block is unsleeved atm. But i wont be pushing more then 275hp on autocross and maybe 325 on drag mode.

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Yeah i would have had it done but the sleeves at the time were on a 3 month backorder. So my block is unsleeved atm. But i wont be pushing more then 275hp on autocross and maybe 325 on drag mode.

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Man, I'd be ecstatic with just 230hp since the car only weighs 2300lbs rn. A P/W ratio of .1 is very nice and would make my Celi a serious contender on the street. It's too bad I can't afford to build it to that spec just yet, but it's something I'd love down the road. That's why I was leaning towards a knife-edged crankshaft for now since it'd go well with all my other current mods (in the sig, btw). Of course, new internals all around would be awesome, but if I had to pick one, it would be the crank.
 
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