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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
That hp isnt a whole lot to get too, it needs to be running first tho

2000 GTS Turbo
So very true, I'm still waiting on the headbolt socket, it's estimated to be here in a few days.
 

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It’s a std 10mm double hex key. It wasn’t hard to get here. Just my local tool shop.. not your harbour freight type place.
Hand Automotive tire Wood Finger Nail


make sure it’s about 4-6” long overall. They do a Stubby one and it’s too short to reach down on some
 

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It’s a std 10mm double hex key. It wasn’t hard to get here. Just my local tool shop.. not your harbour freight type place.
View attachment 55237

make sure it’s about 4-6” long overall. They do a Stubby one and it’s too short to reach down on some
Its not common here in the states i had to special order it too. My tool trucks didnt even have it.

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Wow.. want to buy a double hex key 1/2” dr set .. and some sleeves?? Ha!
 

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Wow.. want to buy a double hex key 1/2” dr set .. and some sleeves?? Ha!
Lol i wont need them i got ARP studs on everything in my engine including the engine cradle and oil pan.

Double hex or what ever is not used for really anything on our cars. Most our bolts and stuff are metric now but damn near everything is hex

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Engineering Auto part Circle Symmetry Metal
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Head's off, but I dont see what failed here, time to drain the pan and look underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·

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Do you mean if I can crank it by hand? Yeah, it does so very smoothly.
Pull the pan ima guess ur bearings r toast on the rods. Chances r ull need a crank too. Most likely chewed it up.

And if ur up for it i can port an polish the head depending on how long the car could stay downed.





2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Pull the pan ima guess ur bearings r toast on the rods. Chances r ull need a crank too. Most likely chewed it up.

2000 GTS Turbo
Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I figure my best bet at this point is removing the sump, propping the engine, removing the transmission, and then having a helper lift out the block with me. Current replacement list looks as follows:

Intake Cam
Intake Rocker Arms
VVT Acuator
Head Bolts
Head Gasket
Main Bearings
Connecting Rod Bearings
Connecting Rod Bolts

We'll see how the crankshaft ends up when I get to it, if I'm replacing it, I'll try the knife-edged one and see how it does with the flywheel and pullies :cool:. Of course ARP Bolts all around, and OEM for everything else. I hope my pistons and connecting rods are fine though, if they aren't that will change the nature of the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
And if ur up for it i can port an polish the head depending on how long the car could stay downed.
How much of a gain will I see from that? If the total cost is under 2k I can get the car running again relatively soon, anything more and I'll be tarping the car for a few months.
 

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How much of a gain will I see from that? If the total cost is under 2k I can get the car running again relatively soon, anything more and I'll be tarping the car for a few months.
In realistic terms id say 5-8% depending on supporting mods.

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
In realistic terms id say 5-8% depending on supporting mods.

2000 GTS Turbo
Not bad at all, would be nice to pair that with a fresh valve train. I'll have to pass on it for now, and just clean everything for reassembly. Weather willing, I'll have the sump and transmission off tomorrow.
 

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I wouldn’t bother with the porting myself, any gains are not worth the expense. Yamaha heads are top notch from factory, most times you get a decrease when this is carried out, especially if you do it yourself.
If you pay someone with a flow bench and they spend a lot of time your gains will be negligible. A bit more when you add cams and compression to the build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Ur engine out?

2000 GTS Turbo
Not yet, I need the sump and trans off first, I already know the amount of work I have ahead to get the engine out. I got two jacks, and wood ready to prop the engine so I can pull the trans off, then the block should be free.
 

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I wouldn’t bother with the porting myself, any gains are not worth the expense. Yamaha heads are top notch from factory, most times you get a decrease when this is carried out, especially if you do it yourself.
If you pay someone with a flow bench and they spend a lot of time your gains will be negligible. A bit more when you add cams and compression to the build.
The exhaust casting flash really needs cleaned up and between the ports is so thick its insane. i open the exhaust a bit and bring the ports closer together and knife edge the area between the ports then clean the bowl and casting up and bring it closer to gasket size but still keep it about a 1/16 inch from the gasket to keep the nice seal and polish it out.
The intake is pretty well done other than cleaning up its casting flash and deposits. i normally just clean up with 60grit rolls.

The chambers have some sharp edges i channel those down to prevent knock and bring it to a nice shine.

None of that is going to decrease flow. Ur makong it easier to put air in and out.

2000 GTS Turbo
 
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