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Not yet, I need the sump and trans off first, I already know the amount of work I have ahead to get the engine out. I got two jacks, and wood ready to prop the engine so I can pull the trans off, then the block should be free.
it comes out easier as an assembly. Motor and box..

Goes in the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
it comes out easier as an assembly. Motor and box..

Goes in the same way.
In my case I don't have a hoist, gonna be using muscle power and a dolly to get the engine to where i need it to be. I might have a hoist when I go to drop the entire engine in however. For now, I'm reducing as much weight off the block as possible to make it easier to lift by hand.
 

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In my case I don't have a hoist, gonna be using muscle power and a dolly to get the engine to where i need it to be. I might have a hoist when I go to drop the entire engine in however. For now, I'm reducing as much weight off the block as possible to make it easier to lift by hand.
I dont much care for harbor freight but theyre engine lift works pretty good for under 200$. But yeah engine an trans all at once makes life alot easier with a engine level... its nice to beable to ease the trans down to get into place.

2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I dont much care for harbor freight but theyre engine lift works pretty good for under 200$. But yeah engine an trans all at once makes life alot easier with a engine level... its nice to beable to ease the trans down to get into place.

2000 GTS Turbo
I'll definitely need one for reinstallation since I want to drop it all in together.
 

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Short block & rebuild the head. If there is any issue with the MMC cylinders, it isn't worth messing with rebuilding the bottom end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
So Update guys: I won't be getting the engine pulled til Saturday, but it's pretty much only bolted to the transmission and then it can come out.

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Also, a problem I encountered was the f*****g head bolt tool left small gouges in each of the camshaft races

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Short block & rebuild the head. If there is any issue with the MMC cylinders, it isn't worth messing with rebuilding the bottom end.
A couple of cylinders have some obvious scratches along the wall, it feels smooth to the touch.

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Bore is Normal normal. For use

I mentioned there were long and short tools. Yours was too short. Live and learn. Try to buy a longer one.

you would just clean the journals with some 1000 or 1200 wet’n’dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Bore is Normal normal. For use

I mentioned there were long and short tools. Yours was too short. Live and learn. Try to buy a longer one.

you would just clean the journals with some 1000 or 1200 wet’n’dry.
How long did it need to be?

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This was basically the only one I could get my hands on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Well that looks the length of mine but I wasn’t touching the journal.
Yours appears to have a slimmer profile. The issue with this one was it was too thick and even though it reached the bolt fine, it wouldn't seat properly unless it rested on the cam journal. I tried my best to reduce the damage, but it was inevitable given the tolerances.
 

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Do you have access to a lathe or uglier.. a grinder to reduce the socket?
Another option might be to heat the hex key middle st soften the araldite glue and knock the hex out of the socket . Then space it down with a magnet or some small washers (anything) drop the hex back into the socket it maybe a 3/8 dr socket??

but you can’t assemble your motor the way it currently is.
 

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Socket touches the journal just as the tip touches the actual head…. it’s close but allowing fit the bolt cap and washer it has good clearance.
 

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Shud b fine if you just clean up, i used a rag to prevent damage on that off chance somthing were to hit it. I do recall my exention rolling the inside edge, not actual surface the cam sat. but either way it cleaned up just fine.

Urs looks to be half inch, if memory serves my 3/8 socket fit through the journal and i used an extention. That or mine was the short one and i put in on the bolt and just inserted my extention through the journal. Its been over a year sense i looked at that socket... and i never plan to use it again.



2000 GTS Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Do you have access to a lathe or uglier.. a grinder to reduce the socket?
Another option might be to heat the hex key middle st soften the araldite glue and knock the hex out of the socket . Then space it down with a magnet or some small washers (anything) drop the hex back into the socket it maybe a 3/8 dr socket??

but you can’t assemble your motor the way it currently is.
Well iirc, the ARP bolts are standard 12-point bolts, so I won't need this socket anymore. I'll just leave it in the toolbox for any future engines that may need it and if it's problematic still, I'll modify or replace it. I very much prefer the style of yours anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Shud b fine if you just clean up, i used a rag to prevent damage on that off chance somthing were to hit it. I do recall my exention rolling the inside edge, not actual surface the cam sat. but either way it cleaned up just fine.

Urs looks to be half inch, if memory serves my 3/8 socket fit through the journal and i used an extention. That or mine was the short one and i put in on the bolt and just inserted my extention through the journal. Its been over a year sense i looked at that socket... and i never plan to use it again.



2000 GTS Turbo
Yeah, it was a 1/2 drive, fortunately with ARP bolts I can use a 3/8 socket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
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Engine is out, dropped out the bottom and dollyed it to the shed. Tear down starts soon enough.
 

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Do you live home with your mum and dad?
Just guessing from the oil and water all over the place.
 
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