No, the Tour was at Qualcom Stadium...aging asphalt. DL1 is a gps data logger by Race Technologies. Front tires going dead would probably explain lack of rotation. No easy way to evaluate a tire. But swapping them front to rear should tell the tale.Were you running on concrete? Peru and Nationals were my first two concrete events just last year and lack of rotation was a problem. Especially at the first event in Peru. I don't really experience that issue on asphalt. I daily drive so I couldn't get away with lots of toe and camber. What's the DL1?
I like SOP. I'm going to make marks on the cam for 1/2" out, 1/4" out and zero. I agree it won't be very repeatable or precise but I'm not sure how important that is.I don't think we ever measured the numbers on the rear, we just eyeballed about as much as we could get on one side, then matched that on the other. As I recall, one side got more than the other, so we did our best keep it even. Brian Priebe was the guy who helped me with this the first time, but it was all very "seat of the pants." The car was spooky on the street, and would shred rear tires that way, so you had to change it at the event. It's very easy to change, but doing it accurately and repeatably is going to be a challenge. The notches on the washer don't really mean anything, because there's so much slop in the system.
What rear shocks are you using? Are they DA? Have you tried a rear bar?
I've had pretty much no problem with alignment slipping to any great degree, I'm not sure why yours is moving so much. Perhaps there's some rust on the gripping surfaces of the struts, and that's causing things to slip?
Actually no. Driver's side was more toed-in than passenger. First thing I'm going to do is put accurate match marks on the strut to spindleplate and then loosen bolts and see if it's still at max negative. Maybe just a small amount of slip occured and maybe even a small slip has large effect on toe. Just something to check out. Makes as much sense as anything else I can come up with.was loss equal on both sides?
That works. I have some more accurate ways and some quicker ways. How about we start a separate thread?What methods does everyone here use for measuring and changing the alignment? Personally I use a level with digital readout to check camber and jack stands with string plus measuring tape to check the toe. However even though this is rather economical it wouldn't be a very practical way to go if I realized that I needed changes "on the grid".
My initial setup was max possible camber all around. (about -3 F/R) While that might be too much, you wouldn't know it from the tread scrub, which looks really good front and rear.What is your rear camber set at bill? Ive kept mine about 1.5 negative with close to factory toe in. I've never had a problem with rotation but I also don't run a square tire setup.