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Here are the basic steps I take when I install a header (this works for GT or GTS)

Before beginning allow car to cool down

Step 1 - Disconnect Negative Battery terminal on Battery (Tool - 10mm wrench)




Step 2 - Remove plastic valve cover shield (Tool - 5MM Allen key or allen socket and ratchet)




Step 3 - Unplug all 4 ignition coil packs (Tool - hands, or pliers of stubborn)




Step 4 - Unbolt and remove all ignition coil pack. (Tool - 10mm socket and ratchet)




Step 5 - Remove 2 10mm nuts securing wiring harness to valve cover (Tool - 10mm socket and ratchet)




Step 6 - Remove 10mm bolt securing harness to valve cover next to oil fill cap (Tool - 10mm socket and ratchet)




Step 7 - Remove 2 hoses form rear drivers side corner of valve cover. (Tool - angled needle nose pliers)




Step 8 - Remove all bolts securing valve cover (3 along back, 3 along front, 1 on passenger side and 3 on drivers side) (Tool - 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket, universal swivel joint, 3" extension and 1/4 drive ratchet)




Step 9 - Remove 2 10mm nuts from crankcase breather tube (Tool - 10mm socket and ratchet)




Step 10 - Pry upwards on drivers rear corner of valve cover and lift on tubes in that corner to lift cover sufficiently for oil supply pip to come loose. (Tools - long flat blade screwdriver and hands)




Step 11 - After rear drivers side corner is up and the oil supply tube underneath is free, push the entire valve cover back to release the 2 studs on the crankcase breather line. (Tool - Hands)




Step 12 - Remove the top 3 12mm bolts from the Upper header heat shield. (Tools - 12mm ratcheting flex head wrench *available individually at Lowes*)






Step 13 - Remove top 2 10mm nuts from firewall heat shield (bolts are underneath the lip behind the head - they are very difficult to see) (Tools - 10mm deep socket and ratchet or ratcheting 10mm wrench)




Step 14 - Unplug both oxygen sensor connectors. They are located inside the passenger side foot-well on the center console. It is necessary to peel back the carpet to gain access. After the connectors have been disconnected, push the wires and the attached grommets down through the floor of the vehicle.










Step 15 - Jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands for safety. (Tools - 2 ton or greater capacity floor jack and 2 ton or greater capacity jack stands)

Step 16 - Remove the 2 14mm bolts from the midpipe to header flange. (Tools - 14mm deep socket, 1 foot 3/8 drive extension, ratchet)




Step 17 - Remove 14mm bolts at midpipe to muffler connection. (Tools - 14mm deep socket, ratchet, 14mm wrench)




Step 18 - Spray black rubber midpipe exhaust hangers with soapy water or WD40 and pry hangers off with a prybar or two. (Tools - 2 prybars) *NOTE* midpipe will probably fall when you do this - make sure you have something supporting it.




Step 19 - Lower and remove midpipe.

Step 20 - Remove center heatshield over cat/midpipe by removing the 4 10mm nuts securing it. (Tools - 10mm deep socket & ratchet)




Step 21 - Remove 2 10mm nuts from bottom of firewall heatshield / shift cable bracket (Tools - 10mm deep socket and ratchet)




Step 22 - Pull firewall heatshield out through bottom. Angle top towards drivers side of car.










Step 23 - Remove the bottom 2 12mm bolts form the upper header heatshield.




Step 24 - Remove the upper header heatshield through the top of engine bay. Put the passenger side of the heatshield in the groove in the head as shown in the picture and pull up on the passenger side.



Then pull the bottom edge of the heat shield towards the passenger side.



Finally lift up on the heat shield and rotate it out into the upper engine bay.




Step 25 - Remove passenger side under plastics (Tools - flatblade & Phillips screw drivers and a 10mm socket and ratchet)

Step 26 - remove the 14mm nut and bolt securing the header support bracket to the cylinder block. (Tools - 14mm deep socket and ratchet) *NOTE* May be difficult to break loose*




Step 27 - Remove the 14mm bolt connecting the header support bracket to the header. (Tools - 14mm socket and ratchet)




Step 28 - Remove the 2 12mm rear lower heatshield bolts (Tools - 12mm socket and ratchet)




Step 29 - Remove the 14mm header to cylinder head fasteners (3 bolts 2 nuts). Use the studs and various body curves on the underside of the car to brace the extension. (Tools - 1/2" drive breaker bar, 1/2" to 3/8" drive Impact adapter, 2 foot long 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive impact swivel, 14mm deep socket)












Step 30 - Pull header off cylinder head and reposition to gain access to front 2 12mm lower heat shield bolts. Remove the bolts. (Tools - 12mm socket, 1 foot extension, ratchet)




Step 31 - Lift header up higher than normal location and remove lower heat shield from under it out through the hole where the midpipe was.




Step 32 - Turn header so flange is facing rear of vehicle and remove header through the hole in the subframe where the midpipe was.




Step 33 - Remove donut gasket from old header and swap to new header. If you are installing a new exhaust manifold flange gasket replace it at this time.

Step 34 - insert new header in through same hole used for removal - insert it with flange facing to rear and then reposition once through hole in subframe.

Step 35 - lift up on header and slip lower heat shield through underneath. Reposition header and install lower heat shield. Once owner heat shield is securely bolted to header, mount the header to the cylinder head and tighten.

Step 36 - reinstall all components in reverse order from removal.

__________________


Thats all for now - please feel free to ask any questions you want or to offer other advise or alternate methods.

My thanks to Klutch for the use of his car and his assistance in documenting the steps of this install!
 

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Comments:

- It is possible to do this without removing the valve cover, but will lead to increased sweaing because it will give you much less room to work. Removing it will make your life much, much easier.

- Remove the battery and the bolt holding some coolant line to the corner of the head. This will give you better access to things and will make the job easier.

- When you take all the bolts out of the lower header heatshield, you won't be able to remove it because it won't clear the lower bracket boss on the header. Stick a pry bar in there and pop it over the boss. Don't worry, the heat shield is pretty flexible. Then get the heat shield out of there.

- The upper heat shield is the spawn of Satan. Once you get it loose from the header, its absolutely sucks to try and remove. It someohow manages to hang up on everything. Just move it to the side and work on removing the header.

- Spray the bolts/nuts holding down the header with WD40 ASAP.

- The two nuts on the outside of the header and the bolt in the center can be removed from above with just a 3/8 drive flex-head ratchet and standard sockets. I use a 14mm deep well on the two outside nuts and a standard 14mm with a short extension (deep well hits on of the manifold runners) on the center bolt. If any of these hang up, I was able to get a breaker bar in there from above with no problem.

- The other two bolts will need to be removed from below. There is very little room to work and I like to bust these loose with the "ghetto breaker bar". What I do is take a standard 14mm combination wrench and stick the box end on the bolt head. Then I slip a 17 or 19mm wrench over the open end of the 14mm wrench (use the box end of the big wrench for this). This locks the second wrench against one side of the open end of the 14mm wrench, effectively extending the wrench and giving you more leverage. This setup is much flatter and takes up way less space than a breaker bar or ratchet, which is why I occassionally use it. I also use some really cheap wrenches I have for this (a $14 set from Wal Mark), as there is a slight chance that you'll break the 14mm wrench doing this.

- Once the header is loose, you should be able to move things around enough to get the upper heat shield out of there without a problem. Once that's gone, pull the heder out the back where the midpipe should be.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jesse IL said:
Comments:
- The upper heat shield is the spawn of Satan. Once you get it loose from the header, its absolutely sucks to try and remove. It someohow manages to hang up on everything. Just move it to the side and work on removing the header.
With the valve cover off it comes out the top pretty easy - I'll post pics and explinations of how you have to move it to accomplish this.

Also - trust me - 14mm deep, impact swivel, long extension and a breaker bar and you will get ALL the header flange nuts and bolts from below with relative ease.

Oh yeah - PB Blaster or Nutsoff > WD40 for loosening rusted / seized nuts and bolts :D

Oh - Toyota also sells a great product - its called like High performance penetrating lubricant - its better than just about anything for getting the rusted on bolts loosened up.
 

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Boosted2.0 said:
Jesse IL said:
Comments:
- The upper heat shield is the spawn of Satan. Once you get it loose from the header, its absolutely sucks to try and remove. It someohow manages to hang up on everything. Just move it to the side and work on removing the header.
With the valve cover off it comes out the top pretty easy - I'll post pics and explinations of how you have to move it to accomplish this.

Also - trust me - 14mm deep, impact swivel, long extension and a breaker bar and you will get ALL the header flange nuts and bolts from below with relative ease.

Oh yeah - PB Blaster or Nutsoff > WD40 for loosening rusted / seized nuts and bolts :D

Oh - Toyota also sells a great product - its called like High performance penetrating lubricant - its better than just about anything for getting the rusted on bolts loosened up.
If I remember waaaaayyy back when I did the Trial header on my Celica, I had the valve cover off and took the heatshield out the top. I just did a header on a car two weeks ago and I did the job without removing the valve cover. I can't remember how, but I got the top heatshield out the bottom. Its like some trick of a certain combination of movements to get it around everything it likes to hang up on.

Thanks for the info on the impact swivel...I'll look into one next time at Sears. I just posted a method for ghetto individuals such as myself with a mere $1200 in tools ;) :chuckles:

I'll have to look into that Toyota penetrating lube. I'm so freakin lazy, I don't usually even have anything as good as WD40 sitting around. I just use my braun to break things loose :p: When I need to pop the rubber hangers off the exhaust, I just grab some motor oil and grease up a flathead screwdriver :chuckles:
 

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I'm more intimidated than ever to do it now. Thats alot of NUTS! But I get to buy more tools too and thats always fun.
 

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thanks for the write up but pics will be better once its posted....but hey i still have the AMSS header install by 00CericaRuss on pdf if anyone wants it i can send it to them...or show me how to upload it here
 

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wow thats a lot of work...crazy. its easier to install a full turbo on a 2000+ Mr2 than remove the header on a celica LOL.

Fun stuff. Congrats on the new business boosted :)
 

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yeah these installs are so fun....lemme tell ya


we took all kinds of stuff loose trying to get that damn header out
 

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I removed old and installed new header in less than 2 hours with hand tools, and WD-40 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Power tools are in no way required, but they sure help speed things up. And yeah, the GT header is like 10x easier than the GTS - tons more room to work with and whatnot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
When removing the header to cylinder head bolts and nuts I use the following Combo:

1/2" drive breaker bar
1/2" to 3/8" reducer (black impact style)
2 foot 3/8" extension
3/8" impact swivel (black one from craftsman)
14mm deep socket (6 point)

You brace the extension against the various studs and whatnot that hang down off the bottom of the car and haul off on the breaker bar.
 

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Boosted2.0 said:
Power tools are in no way required, but they sure help speed things up. And yeah, the GT header is like 10x easier than the GTS - tons more room to work with and whatnot.
:werd: I've removed a few GT headers and each time only required me removing the valve cover.

Went something similar to this:

1. Remove valve cover
2. Remove top heat shield bolts and then remove top heatshield (comes out the top)
3. Loosen & remove exhaust manifold nuts (where it connects to the engine)
4. Jack car up
5. Remove bottom heat shield bolts
6. Remove exhaust manifold support bolts (triangle piece)
7. Remove exhaust manifold spring-loaded bolts (connects to midpipe)
8. Remove bottom heatshield (comes out the top)
9. Remove header (comes out the top)

Takes about ~30 minutes total now with no air tools. I've done it a few times though.
 
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