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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been covered hundreds of times, but after searching the forum, I can't find the correct answer for my question.

I have a South Bend TZ clutch with Fidanza flywhell. After finally finishing the break in period (around 1.200kms) I took the car the the track (not quarter mile, but real track). It was a hot day, around 33-34 degrees Celsius. In the evening, after heating up the car, I got clutch slipering when hitting lift. Once I cooled down everything went perfect, but with the car hot (115-120
 

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Was the clutch system fully bled after installation of the clutch/flywheel? Might want to check your clutch slave cylinder and see if there is any type of leak around there. Same with the Clutch Master Cylinder and see if the reservoir is properly filled. Usually, the first signs of these going out is when the car is driven and warmed up for a good 10 mins or so and then the clutch starts slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
rogergts said:
Was the clutch system fully bled after installation of the clutch/flywheel? Might want to check your clutch slave cylinder and see if there is any type of leak around there. Same with the Clutch Master Cylinder and see if the reservoir is properly filled. Usually, the first signs of these going out is when the car is driven and warmed up for a good 10 mins or so and then the clutch starts slipping.
I took the car to do the installation, but I think they did not bled the system. But as you said, it starts slipping after warming it up.

I have ordered the extended push rod anyway, to try to solve the very high catching point for the clutch.

But from what I read you, I think that the system is the problem. It should get a liquid change, I guess...
 

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I would bleed it if I were you. I doubt the pushrod would help a slipping clutch. All it would do is help to disengage easier, so it would actually make it worst! If it disengage more, obviously it might be less engaged when the clutch is depressed.

One suggestion I can make is to avoid the extended pushrod when possible.

Trying to solve your problem ... Is it possible that some sort of liquid was spilled on your clutch disk at the installation? Does it smell something? It is really weird to me that a new clutch would slip!

I assume that if you lower the adjustment inside the car, you loose disengagement, right? Cause if not, you can try lowering it, that would help the clutch to engage better. However, this would indicate that the bearing spins all the time which is not good. Do you feel it on the pedal when the bearing starts to spin while engaging the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
danGTS said:
I would bleed it if I were you. I doubt the pushrod would help a slipping clutch. All it would do is help to disengage easier, so it would actually make it worst! If it disengage more, obviously it might be less engaged when the clutch is depressed.

One suggestion I can make is to avoid the extended pushrod when possible.

Trying to solve your problem ... Is it possible that some sort of liquid was spilled on your clutch disk at the installation? Does it smell something? It is really weird to me that a new clutch would slip!

I assume that if you lower the adjustment inside the car, you loose disengagement, right? Cause if not, you can try lowering it, that would help the clutch to engage better. However, this would indicate that the bearing spins all the time which is not good. Do you feel it on the pedal when the bearing starts to spin while engaging the clutch?

There are two things to check about the clutch, the slipiness (or whatever you call it) and the high engagement point. This last thing is what I would like to correct with the extended pushrod. I have tried to adjust it from the pedal but it doesn't seem to help it.
 

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I have a south bend TZ clutch too, but this is on a Corolla with 1zzfe and i have the same problem. I just had it installed recently and after 600 miles break-in. When I launch it for a while the damn thing will burn up and smell bad and slip. The clutch is perfectly fine driving around town, no slipping. But if I launch it in 2.5 rpm or above the damn thing will slip like crazy before it caughts and go. There is no wheelspin on the tires, nor do I burn any rubber. My problem with this clutch is that it is not consistent. Sometimes I will burn rubber and sometimes it will slip when I launch. I only had this thing for 3 weeks now, hopefully it will be better or I will buy another clutch kit. This kit is perfectly fine when not launching don't get me wrong.
 

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Thats weird - is that on the factory flywheel? If so did you get it resurfaced?
 

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Boosted2.0 said:
Thats weird - is that on the factory flywheel? If so did you get it resurfaced?
yep factory flywheel resurfaced. does everyone here always screech their tires when dumping the clutch from 3k rpm? I am running 6 month old Yokohama 205-45-16 AS300 tires.
 

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man this sucks........i have the same combo. and you guys make me scared. there was a lot of liquid on top of my tranny/under the battery, where the spedo sensor plug was. is this where the master cylinder for the clutch is? if so, how would i check if this is the problem. the tranny is off right now cuz i have to wait for my flywheel bolts on friday. the last thing i want is to install the tranny to find out i have to repair the master cylinder. i'm sure theres no leak from the release cylinder. thanks

-arnold
 

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btw, when the clutch gave out, it seemed like the clutch would not ingage. i would be able to start the car, shift gears without pressing the clutch.
 

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00gtsGETemHIGH said:
btw, when the clutch gave out, it seemed like the clutch would not ingage. i would be able to start the car, shift gears without pressing the clutch.
How was the pedal feel?
 

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thanks for the info looks like i wont be buying no damn South Bend clutch i had a feeling those people who kept advertising those thing were sounding a bit fishy
 

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rogergts said:
00gtsGETemHIGH said:
btw, when the clutch gave out, it seemed like the clutch would not ingage. i would be able to start the car, shift gears without pressing the clutch.
How was the pedal feel?
mushy! i checked the brake fluid, and its mostly there.. i hear they share the same fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
ZenoGenProducts said:
thanks for the info looks like i wont be buying no damn South Bend clutch i had a feeling those people who kept advertising those thing were sounding a bit fishy
Actually I don't think my problem is related to the clutch quality. When the car is not that hot it grabs perfect.

All I have to say about South Bend are good things for their service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
00gtsGETemHIGH said:
mushy! i checked the brake fluid, and its mostly there.. i hear they share the same fluid.
This is important... is the same fluid for brakes and for clutch? Or do they use diferent fluids?
 

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Same fluid. The hydraulic side of the clutch system is basically like a VERY simple brake system. The pedal pushed a rod that pushes the piston in the clutch master - creates pressure in the clutch lines and that pressure acts on the piston in the slave.

Thats why its do important to make sure the system is properly bled out and also to check if the clutch hose is swelling with the higher force required to push the slave. if it is you may want to get a SS clutch line - they do wonders for pedal feel anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Boosted2.0 said:
Same fluid. The hydraulic side of the clutch system is basically like a VERY simple brake system. The pedal pushed a rod that pushes the piston in the clutch master - creates pressure in the clutch lines and that pressure acts on the piston in the slave.

Thats why its do important to make sure the system is properly bled out and also to check if the clutch hose is swelling with the higher force required to push the slave. if it is you may want to get a SS clutch line - they do wonders for pedal feel anyhow.
But, if they share the same fluid, why then I did not have any problems with the brakes? Ok, they are upgraded, but I should have had problems with them if it was a liquid problem, right?
 

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EDV11 said:
Boosted2.0 said:
Same fluid. The hydraulic side of the clutch system is basically like a VERY simple brake system. The pedal pushed a rod that pushes the piston in the clutch master - creates pressure in the clutch lines and that pressure acts on the piston in the slave.

Thats why its do important to make sure the system is properly bled out and also to check if the clutch hose is swelling with the higher force required to push the slave. if it is you may want to get a SS clutch line - they do wonders for pedal feel anyhow.
But, if they share the same fluid, why then I did not have any problems with the brakes? Ok, they are upgraded, but I should have had problems with them if it was a liquid problem, right?
They use the same fluid resivoir, but the sealed pressure side of the circuit (where the air would be) is totally different.
 

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:werd: Also, there are brake lines and clutch lines. There should be two reservoirs in the engine bay, one on the brake master cylinder which connects to the brake booster and the other is the clutch master cylinder which connects directly to the firewall. If there is any air trapped in the clutch line, the clutch pedal can feel very soft or won't let the clutch engage/disengage properly. A faulty clutch slave cylinder which is bolted near the transmission can also cause this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yesterday I adjusted the bolt on the pedal completely clockwise and the feeling was better. The pedal free play is very short, so it seems that the release point now is in the middle, but with the handicap that there is not much free play to make gear changes smoothly... And again, yesterday I did not have any problems with slipping and I reached about 110
 
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