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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, so with my Clarion APX1300 amp installed, the headlights dim ever so slightly on loud beats, and dim like mad during the song "This Could Be Anywhere In The World" by Alexisonfire (the part at the beginning, right after the drummer does his little snare roll and starts on the Zil-Bel or LP-ICE bell, whichever it is). Tomorrow Im going out and getting some 4ga cable to redo the ground wires in the engine compartment, along with the alternator -> battery cable.

I was just wondering, does anyone have a picture of the alternator -> battery cable connection on the alternator? Im pretty sure I know what one it is, but I just want to be sure. Im using the Tuned Innovations Groundwire Kit guide as my basis for upgrading the ground wires. If anyone else has any tips, I wouldnt mind hearing them, but Im pretty sure Ive covered what I need, other than upgrading the alternator or battery.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Upgrading the wire = cheaper than a cap, alt, or battery. Trying not to spend very much money, as I still owe my parents on the car. Thanks for the links too, more pictures of the same thing make it easier to see what Im bolting to :)
 

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Caps aren't worth it and do basially nothing. They are more of a decoration unless they are high powered ones. Even then they are more of a way to bandage your problem not heal it. The Big 3 is always the first step, then battery, and alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats what I figured. My cousin went to school for car audio and swears by them, but even doing the big 3 is a lot cheaper than a cap. The only way Id use a cap is if it was given to me, or someone proved to me that it works (showed me the dimming without the cap, connected it, and it went away).
 

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Cap might help the "dim ever so slightly"... but won't help much on "This Could Be Anywhere In The World".
 

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SpikedCola said:
What's a red top, and what are they worth approximately?
A battery made by Optima. Price ranges from $120-160 depending on where you shop.

For all that audio, you'd be better off with a yellow top. But judging by your posts, I don't think you'll have the cash for either.

Can someone explain to me what "the big 3" is? This is the second time in a week I've seen someone refer to this method. Just curious, thanks.
 

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Big 3 is upgrading the 3 electrical wires that are usually not very good in stock cars. They are: 1. The wire going from the negative battery post to a chasis ground, 2. Positive battery post to positive alternator, and 3. Engine to chasis ground. By upgrading to a larger gauge wire it allows the current to flow better throughout the car and electrical accessories benefit from that...
 

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Caps can fix the problem of dimming in some cases, but like I said it is more of a way of bandaging the problem. It is not the correct way to go about fixing it. There is plenty of discussion still on all of the car audio sites.

A better battery is always the next step and a much better way to go. A yellow top is a better way to go for someone with a system as it has deep cycle and generally more CCA. There are many other great batter brands to look at too.

Here is a good explanation of the Big 3.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801

And here is some good reading on capacitors.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t88047.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6806&highlight=capacitors
 

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Caps are used widely in all electronics including your amplifiers. Yes, they do not always dismiss the dimming on headlights if your running crazy wattage > 500 watts at full.
They are very nice since they level out your Voltage instead of getting a really ripply type of voltage input to your amplifier.
The cap is in the most part always providing a nice clean steady voltage for your amplifiers which in many manufactures designs is very reliant on voltage .. example why they claim e.g. 200 watts at 12 volts, then 250 watts at 13.8volts. So for a SQ persepctive, the cap will alwyas try to maintain a steady voltage level for your amplifiers.
The reason why they appear not to always diminish the dimming on lights is that the cap will yank its power to refill its plates when the stored power was given to your power demnading amps.

Therefore, in talking electronics and all you worry about is dimming lights, the CHEAPEST way to get rid of dimming is simply installing caps (does not need to be a huge 1 Farad rocket) to the wiring connection of your Headlights ...
 

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evil eye said:
A battery made by Optima. Price ranges from $120-160 depending on where you shop.

For all that audio, you'd be better off with a yellow top. But judging by your posts, I don't think you'll have the cash for either.

Can someone explain to me what "the big 3" is? This is the second time in a week I've seen someone refer to this method. Just curious, thanks.
We should make it a sticky, along with the why caps don't work thing. Very useful info.
 

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kkrkeith7 said:
Big 3 is upgrading the 3 electrical wires that are usually not very good in stock cars. They are: 1. The wire going from the negative battery post to a chasis ground, 2. Positive battery post to positive alternator, and 3. Engine to chasis ground. By upgrading to a larger gauge wire it allows the current to flow better throughout the car and electrical accessories benefit from that...
Ahhh, I see. Good to know. Thanks!

RekD0514 said:
Very nice. Thanks for the link!
 

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I have a 1 farad Lightinig Audio cap(80$ CAD) and unless I've got my system cranked, my lights are fine. And I'm running 1000watts to 2 competition subs. My system cranked equals my rearview mirror not staying put, not being able to talk to anyone in the car, and all the dishes in the house rattling, hahaha. That's too loud :gap: Power delivery is smoother with a cap. However, I will be getting a yellow top soon and I want to try this big 3 as well. I've never heard of that. Might as well smooth it out even more!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright, Ive done all the ground wires, however, Ive disconnected the wire from the alternator, isolated it, and hooked up a brand-spankin'-new run of Kicker 4ga wire to it. Where does the other end go? Ive found the old wire (white with silver stripes) goes into the fuse panel. Should I try and splice into it (seems dumb, since then it would be running the crappier wire back up to the battery) or fuse it and connect the wire straight to the battery, ignoring the fuse in the fuse panel?
 

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wtcnbrwndo4u said:
evil eye said:
A battery made by Optima. Price ranges from $120-160 depending on where you shop.

For all that audio, you'd be better off with a yellow top. But judging by your posts, I don't think you'll have the cash for either.

Can someone explain to me what "the big 3" is? This is the second time in a week I've seen someone refer to this method. Just curious, thanks.
We should make it a sticky, along with the why caps don't work thing. Very useful info.
Already done. It's called the "Audio FAQ" thread. :thumbup:
 

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SpikedCola said:
Alright, Ive done all the ground wires, however, Ive disconnected the wire from the alternator, isolated it, and hooked up a brand-spankin'-new run of Kicker 4ga wire to it. Where does the other end go? Ive found the old wire (white with silver stripes) goes into the fuse panel. Should I try and splice into it (seems dumb, since then it would be running the crappier wire back up to the battery) or fuse it and connect the wire straight to the battery, ignoring the fuse in the fuse panel?
You will want to send a new wire from the Alt + to the Battery + with a fuse on it like you were saying. Electricity always follows the path of least resistance. The bigger wire has less resistance, so it will go through it.
 
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