NewCelica.org Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
181 - 195 of 195 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Yes motor spins both ways. But look at the little pin on the arm. it doesn't go in a slot, it just kinda goes in that large open area on the gear. I can see where the cam would kick it up, but nothing makes it follow the cam in reverse. So what gives the actuator "down" power?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,329 Posts
the body ECU is what switches the polarity, nothing in side the lock actuator does. Those are just limit switches to tell the body ECU where the lock is in terms of locked or unlocked and to tell the body ECU where the motor has ran the lock to so it can shut the motor off or turn the motor on so it doesn't break things.
 

·
Celica Enthusiast
Joined
·
306 Posts
I did this not too long ago. Below the round gear, there is a "spring" but it's more to keep the gear from moving too far in either direction. When I took the actuator apart, and pulled the motor off, it decided to take the gear with it and the spring as well. Took me a while to figure out how it went back on. Luckily I had one more chance. So when I did the second actuator I took it apart very carefully and saw how it's supposed to be underneath the gear. Don't try the motor while it's apart because it will torque out of place. I would hold it closed and even then, screw it back down first to make sure that it sounds like it's working.

This guide is pretty awesome and saved me some money. The motor you will have to be careful though. Even though I searched for exactly what the description said, the shaft was round on the new one that I purchased versus having a "groove" in it (if that's the right term). So instead of waiting for another motor since now I had it all apart, I took the brushes off and just replaced those. Not fun, but it works. A little ABS cement and screwed back on. Good for another few years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
There is some kind of spring under the large gear/cam. it starts to load when the gear is turned from the "neutral" or resting position. it allows the gear to turn slightly less than half a turn (either way) before it locks up. at that point it is fully loaded and will turn the gear back to the neutral position as soon as power to the motor is shut off. The door stays locked or unlocked until the motor is powered in the other direction to cam the lever to the other position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,329 Posts
Huh, I don't remember mine having a spring inside. But I only touched on the motor parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
the new motor showed up today. I tried to pull/pry off the gear driver off the old motor with no success, so I decided to take the plunge and cut the old motor shaft off right were it comes out of the case. I used an abrasive disk on my dremel tool. then I was able to lightly clamp the shaft in a smooth jaw bench vise, which supported the bottom of the gear driver. I made a pin driver from a small finishing nail by grinding the point flat. I was able to drive the old shaft out very easily. luckily it went on the new motor with a few hammer taps. The gear driver piece on my 2002 is metal, appears to be steel as it is magnetic.

New problem is the arm coming off the actuator is a bit sloppy on the shaft. these parts are all plastic, held together with a metal pin. Maybe there is enough slop and lost travel to not push the door lock all the way?

Got the pin out, and it looks like the holes in the plastic are egged out a bit from use. It looks like I can find a larger diameter pin to tighten it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Found a cotter pin just a tad larger than the original metal pin. Drilled out the hole so the cotter pin had to be lightly pressed in. Now the arm is tight on the shaft. Installed the new $5 Ebay motor, and glued the housing back together with RTV. plugged into the car and it cycled the door lock crisply, except BACKWARDS to the other 3 doors.

Took a look at the wiring, and it appeared the motor had 3 wires going into it, red, white, and blue. Using my mutlimeter while cycling the door lock switch, I thought the red and blue wires were the ones that needed to be reversed, so I cut the harness and swapped them.

Lucked out and it now locks/unlocks in sync with the other doors.

I can't believe they don't sell these actuators aftermarket!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hey guys, long time lurker...
This info is awesome. If you screw up like me and break the little metal gear, you can also purchase:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111652236934?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
It's a kia lock actuator with a metal twist style gear already pressed on. I tried this and it's been working perfectly for the past couple weeks. Only thing is you need to reverse the polarity. Its the blue and blue/white on the end of the harness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi all, brand new to this forum and came across this amazing post. Just wanted to clarify on a few things before I dive into this weekend project.

My passenger door will not lock via key, center console, or keyless remote. It will unlock after hesitating the first time, so I basically turn my key to the right twice to ensure that it unlocks fully. Does this sound like a good use case for this DIY?

If so, then is this the part that I need?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-DOOR-LO...ash=item1c4e12daf4:g:oTIAAOSwhOVXfqe8&vxp=mtr

The listing specifies that it is for a 10mm round shaft. Is this the correct shaft for a 2004 or would I need a flat or ribbed shaft? I don't want to have to pull the old one off. Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Actuator motor help

Hi, I'm getting ready to work on my drivers' door actuator on my 2001 GTS with 140k miles. This is a great thread! Lots of excellent pictures and information.

In post #30 what Artimis008 suggested
changing out the end cap with the brushes rather than change the whole motor and switch out gear on the shaft.
I think that will be my course of action, if I can do that.

I bought a couple motors on eBay. Thought it would be good to have the motors on hand before beginning
and that I'd already have the cap off before taking the door apart.

I had a lot of difficulty getting the cap off.
Tried numerous tools, tiny screwdrivers, but that cap was really crimped on there hard.
What I ended up doing was to use a 1/16" drill, and remove a tiny amount of plastic inside where the case was crimped.
I was very careful not to drill too deep, I did not want to take out any more plastic than needed.

Where I drilled is marked in green
[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

Then, using a heavy pin inserted into the depression I had drilled,
I was able to push up and back the crimps.

I was able to wriggle the end cap off,
but when I experimented getting the end cap back on, it was difficult.

I thought there must be an easier way than carefully wriggling.
After all, how did they put it together at the factory?
I noticed two tiny curved slits.
Hmmm . . . .
So I found the tiny slits are just a little smaller than a straight pin.
So if you push a straight pin through the hole,
the pin will be held by the tension of the slightly smaller slit.

So, put a straight pin in the slit,
and slide up so the brush is held back until the cap is in position,
then pull out the straight pin.

Straight pins on back side of cap
[/URL][/IMG]

Straight pins holding brushes in place
[/URL][/IMG]

When I take apart the motor from the actuator, I'll use straight pins to hold back the brushes before pulling off the end cap too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,466 Posts
Great and welcome!
 

·
Knuckleheaded Wrencher
Joined
·
2 Posts
Can't wait to try this out and fix my door lock. My Cellie really wants some random degenerate to just walk up slowly and open the driver side door with no effort since it won't lock the door with the power locks.
 
181 - 195 of 195 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top