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I have a habit of reading too much into things and when I read to pull and twist the spindle off I got it into my head that there were threads inside and I was worried I might damage them. Well, at least in the 2001 version, there are no thread. I ended up using a chisel and hammer to get the damn thing off! I am curious though, since there seems to be a range of difficulties in removing the spindle (if that's the right term?) is it connected to the year of the car? Before going down the brute force route, I did wonder if there was a hole in the top of the unit that I could use to hit the shaft off. Well, there is. I took some photos, so if anyone ends up where I was, dark out and no way to lock your car, it might be another way to remove the piece.



 

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Hi All,
So I tried to replace the actuator on passenger side door yesterday and I ran into a couple of issues. First was the bolt holding the white plastic cover to the door, it was glued solid. I tried using a soldering iron to see if it would weaken the glue but the bolt started rotating, so it had no resistance to fight against it. Ended up needing to drill it out.
But my bigger problem is that with the repair finished, its not working! I took everything apart and double checked it, twice - black cable to black socket; white cable to chrome socket. I even opened the glued piece again to make sure the motor was still working (and it was).
When I use the center console to open/close, there is no movement in the door knob. I can move the open and close door knob until I pull the interior handle to open the door. Then the knob is restricted in the closed position.
If I use my key in the door is can eventually open it (after getting it into this state) - it also opens the driver-side door and boot so I guessing the circuit is working (cos my first guess was that the passenger side wasn't getting the signal to open/close from the center console).
At least it's in a semi-permanent closed state, which is a lot better than the opposite. But I would like control of my passenger door back... Any suggestions?
 

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I'm fixing speaker issues in my 03, so I have no door panels on the car. I had inquired about fixing door locks before in another thread about a year ago when mine started to go bad, but don't recall anyone bringing up this EPIC thread! :/:

I was about 12 hours from ordering a set of re-manufactured locking assemblies (pair) for $280 when I stumbled on this thread.

I would like to confirm that the MABUCHIFC-280PC-22125 is the motor of choice.

I would also like to confirm that all Celica's (all years) have the same motor and specifications:



I'm looking to buy these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pk-MABUCH...d=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&mehot=pp&sd=121425065624

I will also be getting this: (to make my life easier :smoke: )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190712384615?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&rmvSB=true

This repair looks similar to replacing the power antenna mast, with slightly harder access.

I read this entire thread, and just want to be sure I get the right parts. I have read posts talking about 15mm shafts, 20mm shafts. I've seen links for collared and un-collared motors. I've seen info or inquiries about flat shafts and round shafts. Searching eBay from the first post gives me a huge list of motors, not all are MABUCHI... so I have basically gone into sensory overload. :wtf2:

So if someone with an 03' or is certain can confirm the above I'd be grateful.

I'm looking to buy ASAP and get this done!
 

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I'm fixing speaker issues in my 03, so I have no door panels on the car. I had inquired about fixing door locks before in another thread about a year ago when mine started to go bad, but don't recall anyone bringing up this EPIC thread! :/:

I was about 12 hours from ordering a set of re-manufactured locking assemblies (pair) for $280 when I stumbled on this thread.

I would like to confirm that the MABUCHIFC-280PC-22125 is the motor of choice.

I would also like to confirm that all Celica's (all years) have the same motor and specifications:



I'm looking to buy these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-pk-MABUCH...d=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&mehot=pp&sd=121425065624

I will also be getting this: (to make my life easier :smoke: )
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190712384615?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649&rmvSB=true

This repair looks similar to replacing the power antenna mast, with slightly harder access.

I read this entire thread, and just want to be sure I get the right parts. I have read posts talking about 15mm shafts, 20mm shafts. I've seen links for collared and un-collared motors. I've seen info or inquiries about flat shafts and round shafts. Searching eBay from the first post gives me a huge list of motors, not all are MABUCHI... so I have basically gone into sensory overload. :wtf2:

So if someone with an 03' or is certain can confirm the above I'd be grateful.

I'm looking to buy ASAP and get this done!
Well, since no one replied, I went ahead and bought the above motor and puller. Finished my first one tonight. Worked like a champ. Hardest part was opening the housing. Found that super glue worked fine to seal it back up, but put a bead of it around the perimeter to be sure it was sealed from moisture. SO if anyone else needs clarification, the above IS the correct part for the 2003 Celica.

I will add that the puller came with a small Allen wrench. This wrench turned out to be the exact size to use as spacer to measure how far to press the drive gear back onto the new motor shaft.

THANKS to the OP for this thread. I spent $30 to fix this, and I have 2 spare motor and a puller I can use for other projects. Sure beats the $280 I was looking at before....
 

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This is my next project, glad it goes easy. I didn't get a puller but I heard heating the brass part will let it slide off with minimal fuss and slide on easily.
 

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I'm still working on my passenger door. What I have noticed is that if I have the actuator unit open, it works. But as soon as I glue the top down (without over doing the amount of glue to stick everything solid :wink: ) the motor stops working. Any ideas on whats happening?
 

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This is my next project, glad it goes easy. I didn't get a puller but I heard heating the brass part will let it slide off with minimal fuss and slide on easily.
I got the puller, I wanted to make it as painless as possible. :smoke: I have a few remote cars and a heli, so it may also see use there. What ever you do, be sure to measure how far on the brass part presses back onto the shaft. In my case I had the puller, and it came with a small Allen wrench that was the exact same size as the gap, so when I pressed it back on with a vise, I pressed them on until it made contact with the Allen wrench.


I'm still working on my passenger door. What I have noticed is that if I have the actuator unit open, it works. But as soon as I glue the top down (without over doing the amount of glue to stick everything solid :wink: ) the motor stops working. Any ideas on whats happening?
If you are getting voltage to it (don't see why you wouldn't be) it sounds like something is binding the gears. Did you press on the gear to far (or too little)? Perhaps one of the other gears is out of place? When I did mine and tested them before I glued them back, those motors have a bit of kick to them. I was afraid that the assembly would pop open as I felt the parts all shift in move under the new motors torque.

Tell you what, taking the assemblies apart was the worst part of it. I'm so glad I found this thread. I fixed both of mine for under $20 if I recall and have two motors for spares.
 

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Yea, splitting the case is flippin hard! I've been going at it here for 20 minutes and just got the blade worked into the case through the glue on one corner.

Woo there has to be an easier way!

FINALLY. What a pain in the ass.
 

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Ok, yea I need that little puller. That sucker is on there HARD, it doesn't slide off like the brass gears do.


Am I crazy or does it look like this $66 Tundra actuator would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Lock-A...?fits=Make:Toyota&hash=item463f24f248&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-Lock-A...?fits=Make:Toyota&hash=item463f24f26f&vxp=mtr

The one arm is a little different but it's just pinned in there by a little metal rod with a pinched end. Anyone think I could just take that pin out and swap the arms or maybe it would just work as it is?

OK, comparing the two diagrams it looks like the Celica uses all 6 pins and the Tundra uses 4 of 6. The Celica has two switches in the DLA and the Tundra only had one. So much for that idea. But it does have 6 pins on the connector so maybe it has both switches inside anyway and they're just not used in the Tundra? Only one way to find out, who wants to try this?

I sent a message to Dorman asking how many switches are inside the above DLA's, if there are two and the pinout matches then yes, cheap alternative!
 

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My puller came today, worked perfectly. It should be on the list of needed parts and tools if it's not already. I'll probably never use this tool ever again unless I start rebuilding other DLA's for people.

Do you think you could hot knife over the motor, take out the motor, then plastic weld the cut section back on?
 

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I took the risk and bought the Door Lock Actuator For Toyota Echo Scion Lexus GS300 GS430 GS400 on eBay for $16.49 from "reach_autoparts".

From their photos it looked the same. My photos of the original and new unit are below. I did put some tape to cover the opening on the new casing (similar to the white tape on the original).



The unit works! So for all those who do not want to mess with opening and changing the motor, this seems to be an option....
But, I have to add that my door is not fully working properly yet. I don't believe it is due to the door actuator though. It sounds to be a more mechanical problem.

Everything is working fine, the remote open and closes the doors, so too does the center console, but as soon as the handle is pulled inside the car there is a clicking sound and the lock/unlock switch in the door becomes stiff again and doesn't work properly until I open the door with the key. Any ideas?

I have also noticed that sometimes the door won't physically close (probably after this happens) if the lock switch on the door is in the open position. Instead of latching, the door bounces back open. As soon as the switch is moved to the locked position, the door closes as normal.
Has anyone else have this happen to them?
 

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It looks like the lever arm that the lock cable goes into is a different length, it may not be fully locking or unlocking or something. There's two switches inside the DLA, one stops the motor from running when it's hit the end of travel (I think) and the other tells the body ECU if the door is locked or unlocked (I think). If one of the switches isn't being moved far enough it could do weird things maybe.
 

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Thanks for the feedback. I will take the DLA out of the door tomorrow and measure the two, just in case its the angle of the photo.
 

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I just checked the lenghts of the arm and it is 2mm shorter on the new unit but still sits well into the part it is supposed to move. However, the other part of that arm (with the hole that connects the lock cable to the DLA) the hole is about 3 mm further away from the DLA. I think you are right in that combined they are the source of my current issues.

I did read a post a while back, where someone swapped the arms on a DLA. I need to look for that again. It could be an option, alternatively, I could open the new unit and swap its internals to my old unit and see if it work then.
 

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The video to replace the arm of the DLA... by Keith Celenski

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcQVWep1Gb0

He starts working on the arm at 8:30 min
That's pretty much what I figured was possible to do, glad to see someone confirm it.


My one assembled side I notice there's a little noise after the door locks or unlocks, I didn't notice anything till I had it all back together. Anyone else?
 

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I decided to open the new DLA and swap the tops, to get the old arm on the new unit. Well, that was the intention anyway. I was surprised when I opened the new DLA that there were no contacts on the top arm. See photo below...



When I put the old top on, the old arm isn't compatible with the new "bottom" arm because of the depth the old arm goes down. So rethinking the plan, I stripped the insides of the new unit and rebuilt the old unit (in case the old circuit board was the reason why my old unit wasn't working properly).

So in the end, I have my old casing and arms, the old spring, to which I added the new gears, motor and circuit board and glue it back together.

The outcome is the same as before! The remote and center console works perfectly until I pull the handle on the inside of the door. Then the lock/unlock lever on the door stiffens up and the door won't open until I open it with the key. Same issue with the door not closing (bounces back out) until the inside lock/unlock lever is in the lock position.

So does that mean the new "as is" DLA does or doesn't work as an alternative route - in that my issues don't seem related to the size of the arms.

Any suggestions on what might be causing the door to behave like this? I am trying hard not to have to buy a new complete assembly.
 

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I'm wondering if I have a second problem and the DLA part is fixed now. Does anyone know what else can go wrong with this whole lock assembly that may cause these issues?
I'm thinking the fact that after opening the door front the inside (pulling the inside door lever) results in the door lock mechanism going into the "locked" state after the door opens, so when you try to close the door it bounces back must give a clue to what is going wrong.
The door stays in that state until the lock/unlock switch in the door is moved into the locked position. That releases the lock mechanism, somehow, and the door will physically shut again.
 
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