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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
ECU relocation / Port&Pollish (56k warnng)

Just taken out the car battery as i'm relocating this to the boot, now looking at the ECU and possibly the fuse box too.
Has anyone relocated these 2 items into the cabbin before ? any tips ?, i'm hoping to take out the passanger side air bag and mount both in there if possible (Right hand drive 190 GTS 2002).
ref the ECU is there any plug and play extended cable available male / female so I can just disconnect drill access hole through the firewall then relocate using a extended patch loom. Else its gonna be using those strip terminal blocks and masses of wire.
 

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Hi Seven - celicauk has done it as well - I think his lived in the passenger air-bag slot and he said it was a right pain in the arse to move!

What on earth do you need that space for - or is that a secret ;)
 

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I relocated my... yup lots of work, all in all, took me 5 hours or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanxs for the advise and help everyone, ths is something i've been contemplating for a while now since i've got parts comming might as well just do what i can to create more space in the engine bay, no other reason apart from that. The ECU is defanately gonna be relocated still 50/50 ref the fuse box, but might see if it can be shifted up a little.
 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
Thanxs for the advise and help everyone, ths is something i've been contemplating for a while now since i've got parts comming might as well just do what i can to create more space in the engine bay, no other reason apart from that. The ECU is defanately gonna be relocated still 50/50 ref the fuse box, but might see if it can be shifted up a little.
Aren't you going to need seriously hefty wire to shift the fuse box? The ECU wires are mostly just low-current signal wires, aren't they?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Just bought 6 meters of transparent silver and blue 2AWG wire for the battery relocation, but you are right about the fuse box, im still 50/50 about moving that but the ECU is defantely going, just gotta get the wiring sorted out for that, but also looking at that poxy air injection system i've been meaning to take that crap out for a while now still havn't done it, Gravel is yours completly taken out or just blowing air in the bay ?

Tempted also to take out all the air bags, and that airbag ECU as well.

Kinda makes me wish sometimes that I bought just the gen 7 shell then added the bits I want so it didn't come with all the Toyota crap and wiring

01 Spectra GT-S have to admit I do admire your wiring on the other thread, but personally I would go for different coloured wires, still props to ya.
 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
Just bought 6 meters of transparent silver and blue 2AWG wire for the battery relocation, but you are right about the fuse box, im still 50/50 about moving that but the ECU is defantely going, just gotta get the wiring sorted out for that, but also looking at that poxy air injection system i've been meaning to take that crap out for a while now still havn't done it, Gravel is yours completly taken out or just blowing air in the bay ?

Tempted also to take out all the air bags, and that airbag ECU as well.

Kinda makes me wish sometimes that I bought just the gen 7 shell then added the bits I want so it didn't come with all the Toyota crap and wiring

01 Spectra GT-S have to admit I do admire your wiring on the other thread, but personally I would go for different coloured wires, still props to ya.
My air injection pump and electric valve are in a carrier bag on the floor, but my inlet valve is still on there - apparently it's closed when the actuator is disconnected, so it's harmless to leave it on there.

I do however have a feeling that the ECU is slightly unhappy about it being missing - I don't have any CEL's but I get the feeling that it's expecting the exhaust to be a bit leaner than it is due to the air injection, and is working to get the results it expects. I could be a million miles off though :shrugs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Gravel can you do me a favour and take some pics of the items you have removed and also of your engine bay ref the air injection system email them to me, just want to make sure i'm gonna pull out the right bits. I really should have got a base DYNO done before I started to pull bits off lol ah well, need the space in the engine bay anyway as that emmission crap is doing my head in no room to work.
 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
Gravel can you do me a favour and take some pics of the items you have removed and also of your engine bay ref the air injection system email them to me, just want to make sure i'm gonna pull out the right bits. I really should have got a base DYNO done before I started to pull bits off lol ah well, need the space in the engine bay anyway as that emmission crap is doing my head in no room to work.
It'll probably not be until tomorrow evening, but I will have a go.

I am very intrigued as to what the hell you need all that room for - you got a Lexus V8 or something to slip in :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just taken the majority of the air injection system out, bloody power cable is a bitch really tight lol, just got the top valve to remove now,

inlet valve is still on there - apparently it's closed when the actuator is disconnected, so it's harmless to leave it on there.
but both pipes I assumbe your mechanic has taken off as you said its sealed untill the smaller pipe activates for the larger air supply to be blown through . Temped in that case just to temporally keep it on till I can get a mig welder crush bend the alloy pipe other side and seal till which time I can afford a performance header.

Still trying to free up that damn wiring loom just to the right of the throttle body its covering the last bolt I need to take out to take off the intake manifold. Barsteward bloody thing :bang:
 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
Just taken the majority of the air injection system out, bloody power cable is a bitch really tight lol, just got the top valve to remove now,



but both pipes I assumbe your mechanic has taken off as you said its sealed untill the smaller pipe activates for the larger air supply to be blown through . Temped in that case just to temporally keep it on till I can get a mig welder crush bend the alloy pipe other side and seal till which time I can afford a performance header.

Still trying to free up that damn wiring loom just to the right of the throttle body its covering the last bolt I need to take out to take off the intake manifold. Barsteward bloody thing :bang:

Yes, all the rubber tubes are off - the big valve thing is still on there but its input and control input are unconnected.

Be careful with your connectors, and especially gentle around your MAF which isn't miles away. I think I damaged my MAF removing my throttle-body...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The MAF sensor is ok removed it many a time in the past, its currently resting in the RMM intake ends capped up so dust does'nt get in.

Well eventually got the intake manifold off now. Gravel (or anyone else) ref your Greddy SC intake manifold what have they done with the top 3 pipes which were on the stock inlet manifold right hand side above the throttle body ?

I'm just wondering if these were blocked up would this do any harm or is purely to oxygenate the rocker cover cam top cover plate. If I go custom intake manifold obviously I wouldn't want to have to 3 pipes present unless they were needed and critical components of the air system.... Also that top pipe on the Throttle body before the flap is that actually needed what does it do... I'm just trying to understand these things before I can decise what my next steps are gonna be.......... help....... anyone.

Edit:- Pics added below







Above air pipe conparison on a Blitz SC

 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
The MAF sensor is ok removed it many a time in the past, its currently resting in the RMM intake ends capped up so dust does'nt get in.

Well eventually got the intake manifold off now. Gravel (or anyone else) ref your Greddy SC intake manifold what have they done with the top 3 pipes which were on the stock inlet manifold right hand side above the throttle body ?

I'm just wondering if these were blocked up would this do any harm or is purely to oxygenate the rocker cover cam top cover plate. If I go custom intake manifold obviously I wouldn't want to have to 3 pipes present unless they were needed and critical components of the air system.... Also that top pipe on the Throttle body before the flap is that actually needed what does it do... I'm just trying to understand these things before I can decise what my next steps are gonna be.......... help....... anyone.

Edit:- Pics added below







Above air pipe conparison on a Blitz SC


Wow, you're brave seven - that's exaclty what I was doing when I ended up with crazy AFRs after I'd put it back together - but you're keeping your MAF safe, so you should be fine.

I believe you need those 3 vac lines on the manifold - I believe there's a 4th tiny one on there somewhere too. Some of the may be for the brake-assist, but I think the others are for EVAP and PCV. The Greddy kit duplicates the three connections on the intake, but puts them before the supercharger - which IMHO is far more sensible, as they will never be above atmospheric pressure - which is what Toyota intended:




The PCV tube on throttle body is still there in the Greddy install, but as I've said in the F/I forum, my s/c is already getting gummed up with oil-vapour from the PCV's, so I'm tempted to add an oil catch can.

I might be interested if you are doing a custom intake manifold - it is something I've thought about. However, I would have thought that you could just use your current one as your blower is quite small.

I've been reading a good book on supercharger setups, and it says that the throttle body must be before the charger on a roots or twinscrew setup as there is no way air can flow back through the charger when the throttle body shuts, wheras centrifugals, like turbos have nothing to stop reverse flow!

PS, I think the small hole inside your throttle body leads to the Idle Air Control Valve - the throttle flap is shut at idle, so the engine would conk out if the IACV didn't let a small, controlled amount of air through. :)

Nice of foxtrck to post those porno-closeups of his Blitz, wasn't it? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just used his pic as a ref to show what I mean, :wiggle: . lol knew you would recognise that lol.
I still can't understand why those +3 top + 1 bottom holes on the intake manifold are needed, i'm trying to do a JAPSPEED / BLITZ combo SC. I know Simon had a custom intake for his 140 which didn't have those 4 pipes which was why I questioned this as I kinda "guessed" this would be the same for the 190 and they could be blocked (not needed).

As for that small pipe on the intake manifold, I think that was also part of the Air injection system, before I changed to the RMM, the stock air box had this going into the T-piece which was fed along to the Air injection pump to a air pressor sensor. Having taken off the inlet manifold all 4 pipes lead into the main chamber, there is no control as such or pressure apart from that generated by the intake and flow. I can see how oil would get into the system also a bit of hot air from the top pipes on the rocker cover, the only reason I can think perhaps this is to lubricate the pistons with a trace of oil as air is being sucked down into the intake manifold via those pipes similar to the pipe on the TB. I know I looking at this from the wrong angle guessing things, but I need to be sure as i'm learning as I go.. Was hoping to get a custom manifold made up, but this will have to be for later on.

I had a close look at the stock TB. IMHO even with slight porting it won't give that great a gain not alot of material to play with, ideally a completly new unit is needed Simon suggested one from a Supra or 300ZX. Obviously the main bore increase is done considerbaly larger than stock, but the rest of the electrics needs to be looked at (compatability), also custom flange. I'm still keeping my options open.

Have to see how things go.
 

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Seven-Of-Nine said:
Just used his pic as a ref to show what I mean, :wiggle: . lol knew you would recognise that lol.
I still can't understand why those +3 top + 1 bottom holes on the intake manifold are needed, i'm trying to do a JAPSPEED / BLITZ combo SC. I know Simon had a custom intake for his 140 which didn't have those 4 pipes which was why I questioned this as I kinda "guessed" this would be the same for the 190 and they could be blocked (not needed).

As for that small pipe on the intake manifold, I think that was also part of the Air injection system, before I changed to the RMM, the stock air box had this going into the T-piece which was fed along to the Air injection pump to a air pressor sensor. Having taken off the inlet manifold all 4 pipes lead into the main chamber, there is no control as such or pressure apart from that generated by the intake and flow. I can see how oil would get into the system also a bit of hot air from the top pipes on the rocker cover, the only reason I can think perhaps this is to lubricate the pistons with a trace of oil as air is being sucked down into the intake manifold via those pipes similar to the pipe on the TB. I know I looking at this from the wrong angle guessing things, but I need to be sure as i'm learning as I go.. Was hoping to get a custom manifold made up, but this will have to be for later on.

I had a close look at the stock TB. IMHO even with slight porting it won't give that great a gain not alot of material to play with, ideally a completly new unit is needed Simon suggested one from a Supra or 300ZX. Obviously the main bore increase is done considerbaly larger than stock, but the rest of the electrics needs to be looked at (compatability), also custom flange. I'm still keeping my options open.

Have to see how things go.
Seven, have you had a look through the repair manuals on here? - they should tell you what all the tubes are for. I don't think you can plug the PCV - it's Positive pressure, so it needs venting somewhere - I think it vents to the manifold to prevent pollution - Fensport's car had breather filters to the engine bay and it kept puffing out hot oil - nasty!

I think that there are 2 PCV tubes - though why one is on the TB and not with the rest, I couldn't say.

I think one of the others is for the EVAP system (it stops fuel vapours from your tank killing the planet).

I think the last 10mm tube is for brake assist - remember the maifold is the only source of vacuum in the car ;)

I have some new bits in mind, and I was going to carry over all those vac inputs - but probably with a catch can in there too.

I may be wrong, but I don't think a new manifold for F/I is rocket science - you will be forcing air in, so it doesn't need to use acoustic effects to help pump air through it. I strongly recommend a visit to Amazon for a copy of Supercharged! by Corky Bell - it is very interesting and informative :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
You are probably right in what you have said, admitantly I havn't looked at the workshop manuals which I should have done, i'm just going by what I see at the moment. The 2 top outlets from the rocker cover which vent into the inlet manifold I still cannot see the purpose of this, to me this is loosing pressure and venting hot air + traces of oil into the inlet manifold, the current position they are in forcing this trace oil + hot air ontop of the main air supply in my book will only distrupt the flow proove me wrong.... I can only guess this to lubricate the cylinders / pistions if it serves any other purpose please explain this to me also the hot air will also have a warming effect upon the cold dense air be it minimal I would rather have NO hot air in the inlet manifold at all.. As for the 3rd pipe pass.... I just don't know at this moment in time. Books can only generilise for a certain ideal application since there are many variables and outcomes I need proof why this was done and espected results proven. As for "acoustic effects" if this is inrespect to sound i'm not really that bothered TBH, but speculation can be given for space, air circulation characteristics (spelling) of flow, densisty etc etc.
The bottom line I guess all i'm interested in is that if I go for a custom intake, for maxium flow from the SC will this be ok or do I need the other air inlets to be present ? and why ?. i'm a newbee to this I just dont know.

The air injection system i've taken out, this does nothing for me, but in my view causes loss of performance as the exhaust gasses will find their way back up the pipe rather than out the exhaust as per a non air injection system. TBH I'm not bothered about emmsions, for me tunning and flow is more important.
THere are many unknowns at the moment I may be wrong with what I have said I don't know what do you think ? I just see this a project and lerning curve.
 

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well the big port on the throttle can be plugged its the breather for the pcv system, you will want to route the plug on the valve cover[both ports are on the back side of the valve cover behind the oil cap(the breather is the one that is to the front of the engine, it does not screw in to the valve cover)] to an oil catch can with a filter on top.

The PCV the big port on the intake manifold will need to see vacuum it helps to seal piston rings, reducing blowby; when in boost the PCvalve will close preventing you from boosting the block crankcase area.

One of the smaller ports second larges I think is for the brake booster, it needs to see manifold vacuum.

the other one simillar in size at the moment dont remember what it is for but also needs manifold vacuum, maybe this one if for the evap and I have it confused with the last one, this one leads to a vacuum-switching valve and then to a port with a green cap

and the smallest is vacuum in your case for the emision pump and was also for the butterfly valve on the stock intake box that both you have removed so it can be pluged or be use for a boost gauge or pressure sensor if needed.

The fuel evap port should have been on the intake tube if you had a CAI, if not on the intake box
 
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