[turbo63]

Recently purchased a 00 Celica GT-S we are setting up to Lucky Dog Endurance Race. Lucky Dog Racing League | Road Course Endurance Racing…without the Bull.

Has anyone raced 24hr Lemons or Champ car or any endurance rate with this car yet? Looking for some basic recommendations. I have already done the WMR upgrade 2zz recommendations. Now looking at suspension and other wear items that I should worry about. I know about the CV boots. I am wondering if OE ones will even last a two-day race.

Thanks!
Kevin

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

Maybe.. check the sig line

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

Our suspension had to really std ish.. just bought new shocks and lowered springs.
We run 195/55/15 bridgstone 003. 240 tread wear. Slotted. Front towers and ground the front uprights to get more neg camber.

2 range colder spark plugs and std tips not iridium.

we run the redline race30 engine oil and mt90 gear .

I don’t know what upgrades you made but here is the biggest tip.. change the valves to mwr with the springs. We did 41 hours on an unknown wrecker motor before dropping a valve and locking up the engine, pulked


get the best front brake pads you can, these things are awesome under brakes. Rears just ask for hard taxi material. Get drilled
Not slotted.. we got 11 hours from our first set. Still ended up metal to metal.. after that we were getting about 6 hours

sway bars are hollow tube.. get plumbers expanding foam and fill them up.

put a switch on the speed sensor so you can switch it off .. that way you keep people under 7500 rpm ..

More later

 

[turbo63]

I was so confused trying to decipher how my mum's basement doors had to do with racing. Then I hit the down arrow...
Your car looks great and love the livery. We are thinking of going with Kazoo Racing as our name and doing a Gazoo Racing spoof.

At any rate any recommendations? I've ordered valves, springs, and stage 2 cams. Along with the basic suspension stuff. Sway bars (whiteline appears the only ones in production still) and new bushings.
Need help deciding on...

• Coilovers (sounds like Koni's would be better but can't find any) looking at BC and KW. But need to know spring recs as well
• Clutch reccomendations. Only have stock right now.
• Fuel cell - how long with stock tank last? I heard 1.5 hrs max
• Items I am trying to wait until after the first race at least. Just trying to have fun and be somewhat competitive first race
  • Ecu - I know I'll get more mid band but any limitations stock ECU to hold me back? I don't see a speed limiter
  • LSD - heard it makes a huge difference.

Or anything else so we race more than we are in the pits?

 

[turbo63]

Overlapped replies! Thanks! That is all very helpful

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

We can’t run coil over without penalties.. nice but you don’t need them.. it’s about fun and entertainment for the organiser not you..

Std everything will be fine.. you will be quick but cheaters abound. We had a Peugeot 206 with home made ground effects that shot flames going into 5th on the straight. Std .. yep.. sure.

mere ecu is great..

Fuel, it’s a 60 litre tank , we ran 2.5 hour stints, when the fuel light comes on.. and only added 40 litres each stint.. we are planning to run 3 hours plus.
Love to know or confirm the light flashes when almost empty..

Buy a good 2,way set up.. I bought a kit , cost me a grand here landed from USA but it’s not great.. I think it is rugged brand.. yemv..

do you run a destructor in the filler neck? Remove it..

You will need 10 rims and tyres min.. rotate front to rear every 2nd fuel stop rear goes to truck except the first set.. keep ttem aside for the front later.
Get the alignment to check and fix wheelbase left to right.. ours was 8mm shorter one side.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

The more you modify the more to go wrong.

std clutch is fine, there are no racing starts..

Make sure you have the 1zz sump... make sure you stuff some scoured pad in the top crank breather hoses. The rocker cover can fill on direction change..

You don’t ‘need’ the lsd.. but I think it would be nice. Take a spare gearbox.. any crunching in 2 3 4 will mean it may not last. But it’s a shit to change.

you will be amazed how many brokencars will be there.. try not to be one of them.

 

[turbo63]

Thanks this is helpful. When you say buy a good 2, what does that mean? I think I follow everything else.
Also forgot to mention we got the Moroso oil pan and MWR oil pump so should be good there as well.
Also thinking of adding in an oil cooler. Any issues with temps?

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

2 way radio kit.. in helmet speakers and mike. Pit headset and radios

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

I’d love a cooler but I would run it on the gearbox..

Ours never got hot, remove the air cond and buy a shorter belt to suit.

we toyed with running a pump and the std little oil cooler creating a seperate oil cooler system in place for engine oil but didn’t.. just run a high spec oil. Do all testing and storage on cheap diesel 15/40 like rimula. Drop it as soon as you get home.. use cheap oil filters and replace each time.. only run good oil and genuine oil filters to race.

ditch the noisy exhaust, it’s hard enough to sit and concentrate for 2 hours passing shit slow v8’s and Hyundai’s without a numbing drone in your ears.

Remember as Ken miles said.. careful of the. Gearbox temps around 5 am.. air temp drops about 5-6 degrees..

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

Oh.. best brake fluid you can.. motul600+. Ate super blue or project mu..

We had glowing brakes std and cooked the temp paint on rotors.. never had fade..

We could out brake 99% of cars, hold a tighter line and out pull them.

I am saving up for an alloy flywheel.. I think that will be better than the lsd. But 500usd is a bit rich

 

[turbo63]

Thanks. Yeah brakes and handling is usually better than power.
No fade that entire time is a big deal. It's nice having a light car.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

I reckon we are under 900 kg with fuel and driver

we were racing without lift and still 2nd or 3rd quickest.

we only got lift fixed after covid started. Now we will run the switch so no one can rev it to peak.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

More.. fark not working much today.

Don’t know your regs.. we must only have water in cooling.. no coolant no water wetter, no additive..

Most importantly.. after race meeting drop some water and add corrosion inhibitor.. then drive onto trailer.. unless you are pulling it down soon. Alway leave it with inhibitor in the system.. and change it night before the meeting.. the blocks corrode and gunk up real fast sitting.

 

[turbo63]

Yeah the rules are almost wide open. Can use weter which is nice. Heck we could turbo it for Lucky Dog or Lemons. Mostly just safety regs.
We are doing a 4cycl racing at a local Nascar series track with one right hand corner.
That is a full stock class so we will have to be good at hiding things.... Though we will switch out the suspension.

 

[Sheik Ya Bootie]

I’m interested to know what things were on that list of stuff you said you had already done.

 

[turbo63]

I’m interested to know what things were on that list of stuff you said you had already done.

1. Moroso oil pan
2. MWR oil pump
3. MWR stage 2 cam
4. MWR valve springs
5. MWR valves
6. White line sway bars
7. Shifter bushing upgrade
8. Stainless brake lines (rotors and pads coming)
9. Bushing upgrade
10. Motor mount inserts
11. Lift bolts
12. A decent amount of just basic service stuff and gaskets

I am sure I am forgetting some stuff but that is the big stuff other than the safety stuff which cost more than the above.