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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd like to get some input from you folks before I start tuning my engine timing.

Questions...
What revolutions should it be at when at a standstill? 1200 rpm?

My neutral and Drive (standstill) RPMs are about 500 revolutions off from each other. That doesn't seem right so it's one hint that I should time it well.
I'm also feeling some hesitation coming out from 0-5 mph.
My mpg is not what it should be.
The steering wheel shakes because the engine is almost shutting off due to RPMs being below 1000 at standstill. (Stops when I shift to neutral at a red light which will be at about 1400 RPMs)
The ac also seems to be robbing a lot more power than it should. I've read on here that's "normal" or could be due to the ac compressor seizing up which it shouldn't because I just replaced it.
The rest of the car checks out so it should all be being caused by this one issue if I'm correct.

Any help or commentary is appreciated! Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I could also use some help on the exact process to properly adjust the timing. It could be more complex than simply twisting a screw until lines match up.


2000 Toyota Celica GT 1.8L (R) 1ZZ-FE w/ 125k miles
+K&N cold air intake
+Carbon fiber bonnet
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you referring to ignition timing or valve timing? Ignition timing is non-adjustable. It is set by the ecu.

You can have a look at this thread to see how to check valve timing.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=359985

Oh cool I'll take a look at that thread, thanks! I guess I do mean valve timing. I don't think the ECU has been messed with since it's not as easy.


2000 Toyota Celica GT 1.8L (R) 1ZZ-FE w/ 125k miles
+K&N cold air intake
+Carbon fiber bonnet
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you referring to ignition timing or valve timing? Ignition timing is non-adjustable. It is set by the ecu.

You can have a look at this thread to see how to check valve timing.
http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=359985

I took a look at the thread you linked but I'm not sure that's something I want to get into. I don't think my issues are serious enough to warrant that. I was referring to a bolt that you can adjust with an Allen wrench.


2000 Toyota Celica GT 1.8L (R) 1ZZ-FE w/ 125k miles
+K&N cold air intake
+Carbon fiber bonnet
 

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There's no other way to "adjust" timing aside from redoing the timing chain (as far as I'm aware). Why did you suspect your timing is off?

You should probably check for vacuum leaks, especially around the intake manifold. Clean your MAF and IACV as well. These two will definitely affect your idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
All that is taken care of. Those were items I did as part of a tune up when I bought the car a few months ago. Ran a pressurized gas through the system and everything. I already mentioned why I suspect my timing is off. My family has already played with what I'm calling the "timing" (I could be referring to that incorrectly) and it's slightly worse now so it's just adjusting that. It's simple to play with it but I just wanted feedback from the forum to be more productive about it. I just need to adjust the engine revolutions. Could be the idle or cam chain tension that I'm talking about that's adjusted with an Allen wrench.
 

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All that is taken care of. Those were items I did as part of a tune up when I bought the car a few months ago. Ran a pressurized gas through the system and everything. I already mentioned why I suspect my timing is off. My family has already played with what I'm calling the "timing" (I could be referring to that incorrectly) and it's slightly worse now so it's just adjusting that. It's simple to play with it but I just wanted feedback from the forum to be more productive about it. I just need to adjust the engine revolutions. Could be the idle or cam chain tension that I'm talking about that's adjusted with an Allen wrench.
sounds like you and your "family" know nothing about this car. there is no timing adjustment. PERIOD! you cant adjust the cam chain. once its tight, its done.

I cant tell what your problems are because you are describing the wrong things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sounds like you and your "family" know nothing about this car. there is no timing adjustment. PERIOD! you cant adjust the cam chain. once its tight, its done.

I cant tell what your problems are because you are describing the wrong things.

Well if I was an expert I wouldn't be asking for help on this forum would I now. Fine by me if you can't provide any worthwhile commentary to this thread. There's no guarantee you know what you're talking about anyway and eventually somebody will provide the answers I'm looking for regardless of me being unable to accurately describe things. The people who know their stuff know how to ask the right questions to get the proper information out of me.
 

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adjusted with an Allen wrench
Sounds like the Throttle stop screw? Shouldn't mess with that, either. Idle is completely ECU controlled.
There's no guarantee you know what you're talking about anyway
Yeah, he does & then some...
My neutral and Drive (standstill) RPMs are about 500 revolutions off from each other.
Idle spec for an Auto is 750 RPM +/- 50 RPM (in Drive).
The steering wheel shakes
Automatics are notorious for having busted motor mounts. This could be an indication of that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·


Yeah that has to be it. Throttle stop screw sounds right. I haven't messed with it but I'm pretty sure the last owner had and my brother and father adjusted it also in attempts to better the problem. I'll leave that alone in the future but does that setting look right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Automatics are notorious for having busted motor mounts. This could be an indication of that.
I think my motor mounts are fine. It isn't excessive shaking that I feel warrants that kind of damage. It's only when I first start the car and sometimes at stops. I have to accelerate/raise the RPMs for it to stop. It's the kind of shaking that happens when it's a rough idle and the engine on the brink of shutting off. But I'm no expert so I don't know what you think with that being said.
 

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To check your engine mounts put it in drive, hold the brake, and gently rev it up while someone outside the car is looking at the engine. If it looks like the engine is trying to jump out of the engine bay then the mounts are worn out. If it stays pretty solid with a little give then they're fine.

As for idle/timing adjustments, there are none so to speak. You can tighten or loosen the throttle cable which will increase or decrease the idle, but timing and everything is controlled by the ecu based on the various information that the sensors send to it, such as amount of air flow, throttle position, etc.

Good luck with getting it to smooth out though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
To check your engine mounts put it in drive, hold the brake, and gently rev it up while someone outside the car is looking at the engine. If it looks like the engine is trying to jump out of the engine bay then the mounts are worn out. If it stays pretty solid with a little give then they're fine.

As for idle/timing adjustments, there are none so to speak. You can tighten or loosen the throttle cable which will increase or decrease the idle, but timing and everything is controlled by the ecu based on the various information that the sensors send to it, such as amount of air flow, throttle position, etc.

Good luck with getting it to smooth out though.

Hmmm ok. Thank you for that valuable information!
 

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While this throttle stop adjustment is for a 2ZZ, the procedure is the same:
 

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Did this ever get fixed? What was it. I had a similar problem with a 96 celica 1.8 engine with a non adjustable timing through distributor. I had to get a timing light to be able to stop the hesitation during 2 and 3 rpms. I had timed to initial timing instead of total timing. If you pulled your distributor out at all and move spun the rotor your ignition timing will be like that. To fix that you have to re line the mark/groove on the distributor rotor with the mark on the side of the distributor. This is number 1 spark mark. Then go down to the crank pully and turn it clock wise to top dead center or at the 0 mark. Make sure its in the compression stroke or your car will hiccup a lot when started. Next put the distributor back in lined up with the bolt holes. Be careful not to spin it to much when re installing. After that you have to mess with the timing to get it right but my total timing was advanced to 13 and initial stayed at 10. I hope this helps anyone who still has these cars.
 

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1ZZ & 2ZZ don't have distributors. However, 10 BTDC is/was the base setting for older Toyo engines.
 
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