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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Failed center console lights description/fix

This document describes the problem and solution of the 2000+ Toyota Celica center console lights failing. After months of research, personal diagnostics, and taking my car to 2 dealerships, I have found the solution to the problem of the center console lights failing. The second dealership found the solution and explained what is described in this document.

Description

For me and several other 2000+ Toyota Celica owners the problem is as described: the center console lights have failed, more specifically the lights for the temperature, fan, and air blower redirection knobs. The light behind the hazard button also does not work. There may be different lights that do not work which are connected to the dimming system but I haven
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Hey Larry let me know you if notice anything that I need to change. Well that goes for anyone. I don't have a BS in English and I'm not an electrical engineer so there are probably mistakes in there somewhere.
 

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2way said:
The real problem is a break in the Wht/Grn wire that leads to the combination meter & is controlled by the dash rheostat dimmer. The "real" solution is to track down which wire it is & where it is broken.

If someone who has this problem does that... it is probably a common location that is somehow scraped or otherwise subject to damage when the console or combo meter is removed.... then please publish the location you find & it will become the 1st place to inspect.
Yes.... it could be an internal trace or connection in the combo meter. Thanks patesgt for publishing your "findings".
patesgt said:
I personally believe this is a flaw in the car itself which can result in certain conditions. Most cases are caused by an aftermarket electrical component installation or
 

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FYI to others, that^ just grounds the console lights in a different location and does not restore the dimming ability for the center console/radio lights.
 

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2way said:
FYI to others, that^ just grounds the console lights in a different location and does not restore the dimming ability for the center console/radio lights.
I thought dimmer worked.... I'll try it out again to make sure...
 

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Dooly said:
I didn't want to cut the stock wires so I went around and did this... :D
I have one gauge cluster that disables the light in the center console....
This did the trick, but when I turn on the head light radio remain lit at full intensity... I guess this is the down side of this... dimmer works though....
Or maybe it's just my gauge cluster??
Dooly said:
That's good... My stock radio is bright as hell now at night time....
It's blue and red combo....
LCD section is red, so it's sticks out like sore thumb...
This would be good if you don't want to cut through stock wireing..

Just little bit of soldering, but it's reversable back to original....
Umm... you already did. Dimmer will work on the gauge... but not on the center console lights. You just grounded the center console/radio lights... that's why they are on at full brightness. If you can spare that USDM combo meter that has the bad center console lighting... I can try troubleshooting it.
 

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You wanna mess around with the gauge cluster(one that cause center console light to turn off)??
You can try if you like.. I can ship it to you.....
 

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Sure, I'm willing to give it a go... I'll return it. Just need a failed one to trace out where it goes bad...

I'll pm you an e-mail address.
 

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Yea.. PM me your information, so that I can ship them out to you....
This one has TRD Center Tach Gauge Face on it.. :D
You can have the real experience with them....
 

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when jumping the wire across the cluster why not use a rheostat from a comp fan conrtoller or a radio shack special? i think ima go try it tomorrow and see how it goes... hell could be an extra "bling" knob

thank god for my PhD in "Afro Engineering"
 

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The real solution is replacing the faulted MOSFET dimming transistor on the Combination Meter's board (circled in red). I bought extras & will sell them off. I'm waiting for Dooly to confirm the fix. [EDIT: THE FIX HAS BEEN CONFIRMED]

 

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i got same problem but i dunno wich one to follow.... hehehehe
 

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Replace Dimming Circuit Transistor

Well, pending Dooly's actual confirmation that I solved the problem with his spare Combo Meter... I'll put out what I found & the repair process.[EDIT: THE FIX HAS BEEN CONFIRMED]

1st, the schematic of the dimming circuit is crude and not exactly factual. In any event, on Dooly's spare Combination Meter (gauge cluster) that exhibited the problem with the center console lights not working, I found that the power MOSFET dimming transistor (highlighted in red in my previous post) for those lamps was shorted from Gate to Drain. Failures of power MOSFETS is not uncommon. They are electrostatic sensitive.

If you've ever done LED mods, you can do this repair.

What you will need:
(1) 2SK2231Q-ND or 2SK2231TE16LCT-ND MOSFET N-CH 60V 5A 2-7J1B transistor
fine tip soldering iron
small amount of solder
sharp tipped small flathead screwdriver, x-acto knife, or other small knife

After removing the gauge cluster from the dash, removing the white back cover, and separating the rear board; flip the rear board over to locate the transistor highlighted in the pic. With the heated soldering iron, heat the metal tab until the solder underneath the tab flows. Once the solder flows, carefully pry up the tab away from the board about 1/8"-1/4" using the fine tip flathead or knife. Now heat the remaining small legs one at a time and lift them from the board with the screwdriver or knife. The transistor should be free from the board after the 2nd leg is lifted & you can remove the transistor. Replacing with the new transistor is almost the reverse. Put the transistor in place so that the 2 lower legs line up with the pads. Heat the metal top tab & apply a minimum amount of solder until the tab sinks & attaches to the board. Ensure that the 2 lower legs still line up with the pads. Now solder each one of the 2 legs to their associated pads. Put the boards back together. Replace the rear white cover and re-install in the dash. DONE

The 2SK2231Q-ND transistor is available from http://www.digikey.com. However, I bought a bunch of extras and will sell/ship them to anyone in the US for $5.75 (via PayPal) while my supply lasts. After that, you'll have to buy them from Digi-Key for more than $7. PM me for further info.

NOTE: The specific transistor noted above is no longer stocked by DigiKey. My supplies have dwindled. It appears that https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/toshiba-semiconductor-and-storage/2SK2231-TE16R1NQ/2SK2231TE16RQTR-ND/1217683 is a suitable replacement part. But, I have not tested it.
 

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Update:

I have purchased one of the transistors from 2Way and have installed it and tested, it does appear to be the proper fix. My dimming is fully restored just like factory. The actual number on the transistor was the same as the factory one as well.

Props to you 2Way, you have supplied us with a proper fix.
 

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:thumbup:
Thanks for confirming the fix :wave:
 

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can someone please post a full guide with pics for this problem. I have encountered exactly the problem explained above, and I believe it resulted from me cutting the white/green dimmer wire while the batter was still attached. I want to fix this asap and want to know exactly what I need to do. I am completely amazed that 2way went through all that trouble to pinpoint this problem, thank god for him. So if anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!!!
 

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can someone please post a full guide with pics for this problem. I have encountered exactly the problem explained above, and I believe it resulted from me cutting the white/green dimmer wire while the batter was still attached. I want to fix this asap and want to know exactly what I need to do. I am completely amazed that 2way went through all that trouble to pinpoint this problem, thank god for him. So if anyone could help, I would greatly appreciate it!!!
There is no guide for this, you just need to swap out the mosfet....
 
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