Actually the loadbearing side is under compression in a turn, so for them to "disentegrate" You would have to destroy a chromoly tube thicker and stronger than the factory mild steel. Which, come to think of it, the ALUMINUM lower control arms on the Zs and Audis seem to hold up allright....only way that would happen is if the welds fail. i have taken a few tight turns and mine are still strong. i check mine regularly
i cant think of the correct terminology for it but as long as the weld beads are smooth, consistant and look like a wave after all the pieces are welded togethor then it should hold fine. the only way i can see for maybe a spot of the welds to break is if you are in a side impact crash at the wheel or you hit or get hit at the headlight area
The ONLY thing I would suggest is maybe running a boot of some sort to protect the spherical joint from corrosion, or at the very least a scheduled maintenance routine to make sure they stay compliant (every oil change or something). This is just one of the things that goes with using spherical bearings that many who are switching over from urethane or rubber just don't do.Any additional feedback from any of our testers out there?
Since no-one is complaining I ASSUME everyone still running along without issue?
Thanks for doing that! That is great news, and I willd efinitely have my fabricator read this - he should be proud. I'm not suprised however. His welds never fail.The ONLY thing I would suggest is maybe running a boot of some sort to protect the spherical joint from corrosion, or at the very least a scheduled maintenance routine to make sure they stay compliant (every oil change or something). This is just one of the things that goes with using spherical bearings that many who are switching over from urethane or rubber just don't do.
As far as breaking at the welds is concerned you may be interested to know that I went ahead and flux'd and x-ray'd the arms at work a couple weeks ago along with an engine head and some TiAl turbine shafts. Like Boosted mentioned I was getting these second-hand and I was interested in seeing how the fatigue on Jason's car had affected the arms. I wish I had images, but they don't allow us to carry phones into the lab and since I was getting this done on a favor I didn't argue :gap:. Anyway, the welds and the area around them were magnafluxed first to see if there was any surface crack propagation. Generally, if cracks form you'll see them in the metal around the weld rather than in or on it due in part to the high heat concentration from the welding process. Most of the time a "cracked weld" will result from a transverse or toe crack and this (and surface cracks on the tubing itself) is what the magnaflux is for. I flux'd all the welds on both arms and everything looked good. I had been worried about the areas where the spherical bearings affix to the arms due to the obvious stresses there but everything checked out. Next the lab-rat and I spent an obscene amount of time x-ray'ing each arm (getting the angles right on a tube so you can actually see wtf is going on on a flouroscope is an absolute PITA). Whoever welded these things did a great job: zero blowthrough, generally good penetration, and low porosity (all the tubing was properly notched before welding as well as the radii and wall thickness were constant around the perimeter of each weld). There was no cracking evident on the interior of any part of the arms and the welds themselves showed no cracking. Again, if there was cracking to be found I expected it to be where the spherical joints screw in the arms/inserts but there were none. There were a couple welds that had some kind of non-metallic inclusions in them but from what I could see there was no propagation from them and they were contained within the weld itself. The only trouble spots I could find was where the "pads" for the ball joint was affixed to the arm, there 2-3 spots along the inner weld where the penetration wasn't consistent. This could have been the result of stopping the weld and starting again or just a slip up. Regardless, there were no glaring inclusions and the porosity was still acceptable indicating that the area was either cleaned before continuing or that it got "doubled-up" during the process at some point.
All in all I'm impressed with the overall craftsmanship. The only gripes I have are that I can't get aluminum ones and that I have to make my own provisions for an aftermarket ball joint. If you guys could make a version that could accept a universal screw-in style ball joint I'd call you boss.
Can you get 7075 or 2024? 24 might be hard to weld though...Thanks for doing that! That is great news, and I willd efinitely have my fabricator read this - he should be proud. I'm not suprised however. His welds never fail.
You reall want an aluminum set? I have the jigs - I can make that happen, but you would have to cover my costs.
I dont notice any more noise, just better steering response. What else would help is to ditch those springs and go full coilover. By far the best suspension upgrade ever. Sorry Dave, yours of second best.Back from a break.
I'm considering getting these before getting the DD manifold. How would these hold up in dusty conditions? What measures would be necessary to keep the spherical joints in prime condition aside from what Shizuma mentioned?
Also looking to reduce wheel hop further. Have ES mount inserts already, am dropped on TRD springs and running 215/40R17 tires with 18 lbs wheels. I am aware that solid bushings will transfer more noise and vibration through the frame but would those that have them recommend these for use outside the track?
i need you to take the bushings out and measure them. with a micrometer if possible. this is very simple, there are only 3 dimensions here, the width of the ball joint itself, the spacer width, and the ID of the tabs on the sub frame,hey dave i have a slight issue and after months of trying to figure it out i finally did today as i always thought i was having spring slap. what it is im having is the metal bushings on the drivers side arm are showing wear from slapping against the sub frame. the passenger side is fine from what i could tell. the only way i found this was i took a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the arm to try and recreate my sound that ive been having. as i did so the noise was coming from both bushing locations as if the bolt wasn't tight enough or the bushings were just short enough to create a gap. each time ive tried to diagnose the problem i always checked the bolts and they have always been tight. is there a site or a place that i can get the bushings?