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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently I purchased a GTS because my old celi was destroyed due to a reckless driver on the road and this new one has been overheating since I got it earlier this week. At first it was overheating when I turned on the A/C but now it looks like it is overheating without the A/C. The symptoms so far have been that the needle gets to the middle and then eventually goes back down to normal, only once has it hit the "H" and then went back down. My guess is air in the system because 1. I already added coolant and 2. it cools back down eventually (fans stay running though so its still above normal temps) The problem with this though is that I was reading the manuals and I am unsure of where to bleed the coolant from and when should the bleeder plug be on and when should it be off to avoid more air getting in during the flushing process. If anyone has any tips on the procedure that would be very helpful. This is my 3rd Celi and all 3 of them have had overheating issues when I bought them.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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Did you look at the Celica Coolant Bleeding Procedure Sticky?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, I took a look at that, mainly I'm stuck on where to get the coolant out from more than anything. I don't know if there's a image out there on where to drain it from (pic worth a thousand words) but any advice would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It did go down, I'm hoping its not a leak but I do not believe so because I open the cap and it went back up. I just finished the flush, it overheated, sucked up the coolant and eventually the fans turned off and the car went to a normal temp. Tomorrow is the day I check for leaks. Thanks for everything! btw whats a SRI for future purposes? I don't know if im in the clear yet
 

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90% it was not bled properly. 10% there is a leak somewhere. Try bleeding it again, sometimes you get a very stubborn air bubble somewhere deep in the heater core or something and it takes a lot of effort to get it out. Raise the front end as much as possible before bleeding. It really does help.
 

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^ Use that one for setup reference. The reservoir must be higher than the engine, as high as the hoses will allow it to go.

Look at the arrow below, you bleed from there.

 

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To bleed air from the engine block and radiator, open the butterfly valve on top of the coolant reservoir.

Turn on the engine, alternately idle then rev up to 3000 RPM for 5 minutes to get engine hot, which turns on the fan and opens thermostat to let coolant (and air) from engine block to flow into radiator.

Once coolant and air bubbles start flowing into the reservoir, rev then idle engine a few times and watch coolant with air bubbles go into the bleed air chamber. When air bubbles stop coming in, close the butterfly air bleed valve. Check coolant level in the reservoir for a few days when engine is cold. Add if low.

If engine is still overheat after bleeding air, it could also be overheat if the radiator core is blocked. Only distilled water should be added to the cooling system. Most tap water have minerals like Calcium, which hardens and block radiator core or coolant lines in engine block.

Best thing to clean is treat the radiator with a bottle of radiator flush chemicals. Read the instructions. It usually require running engine hot for 1 to 2 hours for the chemicals to dissolve hardened calcium. Good luck.
 
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