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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, first post on this website. decided to upgrade recently from my 90 GTS to a 2000. im very pleased with it so far and have plans of tweeking it in the future. though i have noticed once the car has been warmed up to operating tempeture i shut it off and come back while it is still warm it takes excessive cranking of the engine and sometimes a shudder or two before it fires up. once fired up it runs like a champ. just wondering if anyone has had a simmilar problem. look forward to posting again here, great site!
 

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Celicamazing said:
Hey everyone, first post on this website. decided to upgrade recently from my 90 GTS to a 2000. im very pleased with it so far and have plans of tweeking it in the future. though i have noticed once the car has been warmed up to operating tempeture i shut it off and come back while it is still warm it takes excessive cranking of the engine and sometimes a shudder or two before it fires up. once fired up it runs like a champ. just wondering if anyone has had a simmilar problem. look forward to posting again here, great site!
Don't know if this might help, but have you checked:
1. fuel filter
2. injector seals - could be leaking
3. spark plugs

good luck
 

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yeah. i get that too.

the guys at the workshop attached a computer to pull codes from the ODBII and they say the AF mixture is alittle screwy. i can't remember if it's lean or rich though.

couple of years back, had a similar issue.. but it was traced to a weak battery.
 

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so ur saying its a bad battery? cause im getting it too, there are times when it mine starts great, and there are times when it seems like its not gonna starts, mainly when i park it in the sun
 

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yeah.... my car was just back from the workshop due to many problems:
1. hesitation
2. rpm would not go up from 3000 rpm during idle
3. engine dies while coming to a stop at traffic or intersection
4. difficult cranking

So the car spent about 1 week in my friend garage who tune drag cars he found the following (surprised that Toyota is a dumb @$%, they could not figure out what):

1. Hesitation - caused by very dirty IACV
so he took off my CAI completely, remove the throttle body and cleaned up the IACV, they look so nice when they are clean

2. crazy idles and engine dead- contributed to damaged MAFS & dirty O2 sensor
I paid about USD 150.00 to get the MAFs replaced, and he did me a favour by cleaning the O2 sensor, it is now perfect, idling at 730-750rpm.

3. He also replaced the Fuel Filter (surprised that the manual said that the filter should last a lifetime). i can't believe it how dirty the filter is, and more surprising the local Toyota workshop did not have a clue the location of the Filter in our Celica (well it is grey import anyway)

4. difficult start / cranking is caused by Lean A/F mixture (according to my friend), so he checked the Iridum Plugs, all 4 were carbonised and looked cooked (haha... guess what I just got the Greddy Iridium plug last year!!!) , so i got the OEM Denso IK20 Iridium plugs....

5. Make sure you check the Fuel injector seals..... mine was found to be leaking. the seals are dirt cheap but it was a pain in the #$% to get them out..... Luckily i didn't have to go through that, cos' the garage did.

i think that's all i could tell you at the moment..... good luck anyway
 

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zuoom said:
yeah. i get that too.

the guys at the workshop attached a computer to pull codes from the ODBII and they say the AF mixture is alittle screwy. i can't remember if it's lean or rich though.

couple of years back, had a similar issue.. but it was traced to a weak battery.
Could be true... cos' last year i had start up problem too, so i changed into Optima Red top batteries, and fix my alternator..... works fine until 3 weeks ago when i had major problem i discuss previously... when i sensed that it's more than battery / alternator problem
 

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where are the fuel injector seals? are those the the 4 "O" rings right underneath the valve cover? cause i remembered changing 1, and it took us 15-20 mins just to get one out
 

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I am not pretty sure the exact location of the injector seals, because it was the workshop who did the works, but yes you must open the valve cover, and yes it took about 15-20 mins just to get them out
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well recently changed plugs thought i had this problem before the swap, toyota says the fuel filter is in the tank and im just too lazy to check that out right now so ill prob take a look at the injectors when im in the shop at school this week, i agree it seems to me like the excessive cranking and hard starting is fuel related
 

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Celicamazing said:
well recently changed plugs thought i had this problem before the swap, toyota says the fuel filter is in the tank and im just too lazy to check that out right now so ill prob take a look at the injectors when im in the shop at school this week, i agree it seems to me like the excessive cranking and hard starting is fuel related
yes, i think so.... they said the fuel filter should last a lifetime, but that's
BS. the easiest way to check if the injector seals are leaking, is to smell the area near the engine cover. if you could smell fuel odor there, big chance that the seals are leaking.
 

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Also, if they are leaking, they will only do so with the engine running, and you should be able to see it with a flashlight.
 
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