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185 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I am just in the processing of installing my top block from the machine shop with new valves, springs and stems.

Everything went fine until i heard a loud click noise from install order # 8 arp head bolt.
Was a bit scared but didnt think much of it. It was only until when i was torquing the last head bolt #10 that i realized that it wont actually get harder to toque as i was torquing it.

note: I installed the arp head bolts in the correct order as ARP said. Using an 1/2 extension connector, i torqued the bolts all down to hand tightness -> extension + torque wrench = slightly tight -> extension + torque wrench = tighter -> then 70 ft pounds in order

The last ARP head bolt was just spinning freely over and over. That was when i decided to take the ARP head bolt out and have a look. It was then when i saw a strange spring thing (maybe thread) on the ARP head bolt.

Here is a picture of it after i turned the spring (thread) anti-clockwise so everyone can see better.

https://ibb.co/fS19WG
https://ibb.co/kmHirG
https://ibb.co/nBVgdw

Can someone tell me what this is? Is the ARP head bolts broken? or is it the leftover thread from the oem head studs?

Should I take all the ARP head bolts out and re-install them?

Is this normal? has anyone encountered something like this?
 

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Registered
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275 Posts
Hi guys,

I am just in the processing of installing my top block from the machine shop with new valves, springs and stems.

Everything went fine until i heard a loud click noise from install order # 8 arp head bolt.
Was a bit scared but didnt think much of it. It was only until when i was torquing the last head bolt #10 that i realized that it wont actually get harder to toque as i was torquing it.

note: I installed the arp head bolts in the correct order as ARP said. Using an 1/2 extension connector, i torqued the bolts all down to hand tightness -> extension + torque wrench = slightly tight -> extension + torque wrench = tighter -> then 70 ft pounds in order

The last ARP head bolt was just spinning freely over and over. That was when i decided to take the ARP head bolt out and have a look. It was then when i saw a strange spring thing (maybe thread) on the ARP head bolt.

Here is a picture of it after i turned the spring (thread) anti-clockwise so everyone can see better.

https://ibb.co/fS19WG
https://ibb.co/kmHirG
https://ibb.co/nBVgdw

Can someone tell me what this is? Is the ARP head bolts broken? or is it the leftover thread from the oem head studs?

Should I take all the ARP head bolts out and re-install them?

Is this normal? has anyone encountered something like this?
That, my friend is a stripped bolt. I don't even know what to say. Goodluck? Samething happened when I was installing new lift bolts. Only way to fix it is to drill / retap the threads, but I would recommend professional do this. Maybe even the machine shop, because you want to make sure the new threads are going to hold up in your block / head.
 

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Electromagnetic Wave :-h
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15,309 Posts
IDK. Looks more like the block's thread may have been previously stripped & someone installed a helicoil.
 

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Work Done, Sexy Time.
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2,835 Posts
No that's a factory strip. Definitely. I have installed this exact same set and to be honest I am having a bit of trouble understanding exactly what you did.

Did you torque the bolts down? I hope to God that you didn't because what they meant was that you torque down the supplied nuts to 70 in steps. The bolts just get hand tightened.

If you did the above I would remove the head and attempt a heli-coil repair on that #8 stud hole
 

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185 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I screwed up.

After looking on youtube the correct way to install ARP head studs, i install mine wrong.

I installed it as if they were OEM head "bolts" not as studs.

I did not put the head studs in first before putting the top block.

i put the top block after the head gasket install, with the arrow on gasket down and other side lifting up a little bit. Then i put the ARP head studs in with the nut and washer.

Esentally, i did not hand tight studs prior to putting top block on.

Made a call to get mobile helicoil mechanic guy to come next week to fix it. Gonna cost me around 100 for the 1, more if the others are screwed as well.
 

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Work Done, Sexy Time.
Joined
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2,835 Posts
I screwed up.

After looking on youtube the correct way to install ARP head studs, i install mine wrong.

I installed it as if they were OEM head "bolts" not as studs.

I did not put the head studs in first before putting the top block.

i put the top block after the head gasket install, with the arrow on gasket down and other side lifting up a little bit. Then i put the ARP head studs in with the nut and washer.

Esentally, i did not hand tight studs prior to putting top block on.

Made a call to get mobile helicoil mechanic guy to come next week to fix it. Gonna cost me around 100 for the 1, more if the others are screwed as well.
Damn dude, I feel for you so much right now. You basically put all the clamping force on the threads in the block which was absolutely the worst thing you could have done. Plus, based on the pictures you posted if I recall my install correctly there isn't that much stud thread sticking out of the head when you start the nut torquing steps. The ARP kit works in the opposite fashion, which is superior in clamping force and reliability. You were supposed to put on the gasket, then install and hand tighten the studs, then the head, then torque the nuts. I would check every last stud hole, this is how engines blow.

Good luck with the repairs. Also just in case you didn't know ARP has downloadable .pdf instructions for all their kits on their website. This is just a minor setback, stay positive and you'll be where you want to be with the Celica. If I listed all the things I've been through with this car..........

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/203-4302.pdf
 

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Registered
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185 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
at least there can still be repairs made to it.

we will see next week how it goes with a helicoil or watever fix
 

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185 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Why timeserts? whats better?

Will timesert be better or helicoil? I want a permanent fix. Will consider all 10 holes if its within reasonble price.

Around $200-300, dats my repair price range
 

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Work Done, Sexy Time.
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2,835 Posts
Google them, Time serts are definitively stronger but that would be steel in an aluminum block. I don't know how that would work out in the long run. D-Sport Mag did a great article on the differences. Might be on their website.
 
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