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Discussion Starter #1
I've been researching the lift vs. vtec functions. I've found that in the vtec engines the high cam solenoid is controlled via changing voltage in the one wire leading to it. For the 2zz-ge engine there are two wires leading to the high cam solenoid. What is the second wire for/why are there two wires (OVL+ & OVL-)?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is one wire to keep the solenoid closed and the other to keep it open? Anybody?
 

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shrumdude said:
VTEC is an electronic function and VVTL-i is triggered by oil pressure.
wrong, if that was true the Power FC would not be able to contol lift change over


Actually the oil control valve is an on/off switch just apply the 12v and the other is ground, but their is another point to not triggering the CEL and going into limp mode. Easy to figure out! I will doit soon but need some cash first
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So a MSD window switch would not work then? What sets the CEL off?
 

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http://www.celicas.co.uk/valves.gif

http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/thecar/engine/toyota.html



The VVL portion of the system is similar to Honda's VTEC system, incorporating two distinct cam profiles. However, the actual mechanism is quite different. Both cam lobes operate a single wide rocker arm that acts on both intake or both exhaust valves. A needle-bearing roller on the arm follows the low-rpm, short-duration, low-lift lobe, forcing both valves to open and close on that profile. The roller design and roller bearings on the rocker arm pivot help to minimize valvetrain friction. The high-rpm, higher-duration, longer-lift lobe rubs on a hardened steel slipper follower mounted to the rocker arm with a spring. Even though the high-rpm lobe is pushing down further than the low-rpm lobe, the spring absorbs the extra movement. At 6000rpm, the ECU sends a signal to an oil control valve at the end of the camshaft that puts oil pressure behind a lock pin in the rocker arm, sliding the pin under the spring-loaded slipper follower, locking it to the rocker arm and forcing the arm to follow the high-rpm cam profile.
 

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So...i broke the bolt by over tightening one of those wirings on the solenoid after changing the ocv filter thing..i am an amateur mechanic, very amatuer, i barely know the names of many parts. But i love learning. Could i use jb weld to put it back on or do i need a new solenoid? The info about this specific part is hard to come by. Id post a pic but phone is dying and not wanting to start the car with that wire off. Will update with pic soon.
 

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So...i broke the bolt by over tightening one of those wirings on the solenoid after changing the ocv filter thing..i am an amateur mechanic, very amatuer, i barely know the names of many parts. But i love learning. Could i use jb weld to put it back on or do i need a new solenoid? The info about this specific part is hard to come by. Id post a pic but phone is dying and not wanting to start the car with that wire off. Will update with pic soon.
JBWeld wont provide the clamping force that you're likely to need if it's an oil control valve. You're going to have to carefully get the broken bolt out of there.

What I would do in your place would be to carefully clean and seal any open holes (chips are bad, m'kay).

If you have a little bit of bolt sticking out, use a Dremel to gently and carefully make a screwdriver slot and use a screwdriver to unscrew the stub.

If it broke off below the surface:
Carefully use an automatic centerpunch to make a well centered starting spot on the broken bolt.
Obtain a set of left-hand twist drills - 1/16-3/8 or 1/2 by sixteenths would be everything you'll likely ever need.
Using a drill about 1/4 the diameter of the broken screw, start carefully drilling along the centerline of the bolt - don't wander and damage the threads in the head casting. You shouldn't have to go very deep.
Jump up to a drill bit about half the diameter of the screw - at this point, drilling in reverse with left hand drill bits, the screw should just back right out.
https://www.newcoproducts.com/jis should have a replacement fastener if you can't get one from the dealer.
Go get a set of 2-3 decent torque wrenches and use them religiously from now on. All the places where something needs to be tightened have a torque value in the FSM. My set are 22Nm, 200Nm, and 340Nm, and also have lb/in and lb/ft scales.
 

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I got lucky, even though it broke below the surface, it did have a ridge to be able to get it out with a tiny screw driver. It took a while but i got it. With my ocv filter replaced my car isnt lagging as much, the oil change helped too i bet.
 
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