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You can buy Walmart's High-Performance 5-30 synthetic oil in 5-quart plastic bottle for about $13.00 or about $2.75 per quart,likely as good as or actually produced and bottled by Mobile as I dont know of any Walmart's offshore drilling rigs ... haha.

It's better to use Toyota's 2-stage oil filters, usually on sale for about $5 at the dealer.

For bros who dont have the hydraulic jack, nail together 3 of the 2x4 beams in staggered positions, to make a ramp for the front tires to grab and climb up, raising the front of the car about 6 inches for access. Add car jacks or 2 large stacks of hard wood under the front chassis hard points to make sure it wont collapse, and you are fairly safe to go under the car. Dont let anyone touch or go in or out of the car while you are under it!

The plastic baffles under the engine are a pain to remove and replace, but they are needed to keep airflow smooth under the car to reduce drags and improve handling stability at high speed. If you dont care, you can keep the middle baffle off for ease of access to the oil pan.

With a large funnel and duck tape, you should be able to drain oil, xmission and coolant fluids with limited opening of the plastic baffles, so you dont have to spend too much time under the car putting them back.

It's safer to take your supplies and spare fasteners to a shop with lifts and just pay them for their time, watching them reinstalling all the baffles back properly. Unless securely fastened, the bottom bafles may get knocked down by the force of wind at high speed and damaged.

Good luck, guys and girls....
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
I always lower the vehicle back down to drain it.
Is it also possible to drain all the oil while it's jacked up?
Yes of course..
nice write-up. What do you guys usually run? I have been running Royal Purple 10w-30. Is 10w-30 good? i heard it really just depends on the way you drive, what do you guys recommend?

go with 5w-30.. that is what the manufacture recommends.
 
New poster

Hey Clint,
Thanks for posting this. I am a new poster to this site, am a pretty darn good shade tree mechanic but is first time having changed own oil on my baby. I got tired of "professional" mechanics leaving clips off my cars.
I looked and looked online, in my books and on your post but cannot find a good place to put jack stands. I had to put them on the cross brace where the lower suspension arm attaches. I cannot find your video on this. Can you point me in the right direction?
I am also having a hard time buying the correct 3/4 in outside and 5/8 in inside clips/fasteners/nylon rivets: any idea where I can buy them easily?
Thanks,
G-Rider
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Always a good idea to remove the oil fill cap before starting to drain your oil...just in case. Same goes for the trans, fill plug comes out first. Sucks draining only to find you can't fill it!
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
Discussion starter · #70 ·
What a ****ing mess this was.



Forgot to do this. I had no problems draining it though?
you remove the fill cap not to aid in draining, but to make sure the cap comes off so you can fill it when you're done.
 
Very nice and accurate guide!
I changed my engine oil yesterday using this guide.
The position of the described bolts is exactly the same on my 2001 GT.
While the oil level was settling, I also checked the air filter and brakes.
So I did a small maintenance on my Celica, saving 100 Euros (140 USD).
Now I will use that saved money to renew the trunk hatch lifts :D
 
does anyone have part# for oil drain gasket bolt?
 
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