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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok this is how I do this. Its pretty much like the TSB with my own twist

I forgot to take pics of removing the coils but thats pretty self explanatory.



Unplug the power steering sensor


Coils removed and harness lifted out of the way


Unbolt engine breather






Remove (9) 10mm bolts around valve cover. dont for get the (2) 10mm bolts above the lift actuator that hold the brake booster line and fuel rail








Lift up on the PCV valve to pop the valve cover up and wiggle it off the engine breather hard pipe




Valve cover off


These are the "Lift Bolts" actual name for them is flange bolt. Most dealer parts guys have no clue what a lift bolt is




This is the exhaust side, it usually does not break but you can see the wear on it




Loosening the intake bolt


Yep broken as usual


Its hard to see in these pics but the intake shaft has rotated all the way out of range and started to slide toward the cam gear




Clean the cam gears off really good with brake cleaner on a rag




Mark the cam gears and the chain so you can re-align them and keep the timing set








Unbolt the cam caps. I only did the intake cam first but you can do the exhaust also. just make sure that you secure the chain if you do both now.


























Remove the intake cam, you have to finagle it out, this is where if you take the exhaust cam out first, its easier to get the intake cam out.










Intake cam out


Here you can see how the shaft has worked its way out




Remove battery

Its easier to make room with the brake booster line out of the way, unclamp it off the intake manifold and move it out of the way


These are the ECU grounds. remove both of them off the lift actuator

Unplug the lift OCV and oil pressure sensor. It also help to unplug the water temp sensor on the head under the lift actuator




remove the (3) 10mm bolts and (2) 10mm nuts holding the lift actuator on the head


You can see the lift oil filter screen here




Life actuator removed, here you can see the gasket, remove that and save it for later




Using a 3/8 drive extension, tap on the shaft to push it out of the head












Make sure you out a rag under the shaft to prevent the broken piece from falling into the engine


Here you can see the broken bolt exposed




The broken bolt


This step is a little difficult, carefully use a prybar to push the shaft back in. Since this shaft had also rotated I had to use a screwdriver in the notch in the shaft and turn the shaft at the samt time I pushed the shaft back in.












The new bolts


Using my highly calibrated hads, tighten the new bolts good and snug, these newer lift bolts are pretty strong so you can torque them good and not strip them, but be careful, the head can still strip.




This is the point I realized that I had to remove the exhaust cam. You need to get it out of the way to reset the timing chain tensioner. Ill get on that soon.










Secure the timing chain with a ziptie.


Looking down under the timing chain guide, you can see the chain tensioner. This is a difficult part. What you have to do is unbolt the tensioner behind the engine. Push it out untill it hits the belt tensioner. Rotate the chain tensioner so you can see the catch and teeth. Push the tensioner back into the engine and use a single nut to hold it in place. (sorry i have no pics of this) using a long screwdriver you will push the plunger back in. Use a long skinny flathead screwdriver to push on the catch so the plunger will slide in. Once you get it pushed back in, use the flat screwdriver to move the hook in place.








The is another tensioner, here you can see the plunger and catch that needs to be pushed in.




Here you can see pushing in on the catch will let you push the plunger back in




Hook latched in, This is what you want to acomplish. Once you get the plunger reset, you have to remove the nut holding the tensioner in place and carefully push it back out of the engine, careful not to make the hook slip or you will have to do it all over again

Note: If you have a 6 sided 17mm wrench you can loosten the belt tensioner, and the 12mm nut on the top of the tensioner and slide it out of the way. This way you can remove the chain tensioner and to it like in the above pics.






Once you push the tensioner back out, re-install the cams and make sure you timing marks are lined up












Start installing the cam caps. they are labeled I2 I3 I4 and E2 E3 E4 etc. with arrows pointing to the front of the engine. make sure you install them in the right order




Use some assembly lube if you want




Tighten the cam caps just hand tight starting from the middle out










Torque the cam caps from the center out to 15lbs














Once the cams are tight, push the chain tensioner back in and tighten it back down. put the car in 6th gear and let off the parking brake. rock the car untill you hear the chain tensioner pop out and the chain gets tight.

Install the lift actuator , gasket first and the filter








Install valve cover, the way I do it is first get the breather hard line studs started, then set the valve cover down. Attach the ECU ground and sensors that you unplugged






Tighten valve cover down with the (9) 10mm bolts


Attach the breather hoses






Reach behind engine and plug in the power steering sensor


Install the coils and tighten them down






Finish putting plastics back on and re-install battery.






 

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good stuff Smaay. I may finally attempt to fix my busted lift bolt now.
 

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This really is an excellent guide - thanks Smaay for putting it together - all those pictures are a fantastic help!

As it turned out, I don't have broken lift bolts, but I did need to take the cams out to inspect the rockers.

As I suspected I had a great deal of trouble resetting the timing chain tensioner with it still in the engine - I could reset the plunger but I couldn't latch the hook. I think I've found a really easy way of getting it out of the engine though:

The problem is that the belt-tensioner arm is in the way, solution - move it out of the way by removing the belt, and then undoing both the fasteners on the tensioner spring so that you can simply slide that out of the way. The main bolt on the tensioner is torqued to 100Nm and is a PITA to get at, but these bolts aren't too bad at all. Once the tensioner spring is off, you can rotate the tensioner arm to clear the timing-chain tensioner and pop it out.

Reassembly looks simple, but I've not tried it yet.
 

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My bolt is broken as well..and I want to try doing this method to save myself some money on labor charges. I've been reading this method and "Phillycheese's" thread and still alittle confused. Do I need to jack up the engine? I'm still a little baffle on the belt tensioner and the plunger reset sequence. If anyone has some more info on this, that'll be helpful. It appears that the other steps I could do except for the ones mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick
 

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Turbo 2zz
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My bolt is broken as well..and I want to try doing this method to save myself some money on labor charges. I've been reading this method and "Phillycheese's" thread and still alittle confused. Do I need to jack up the engine? I'm still a little baffle on the belt tensioner and the plunger reset sequence. If anyone has some more info on this, that'll be helpful. It appears that the other steps I could do except for the ones mentioned.
Thanks in advance,
Nick
No the engine doesnt need to be jacked up.

For the plunger you must dissengage the teeth from the shaft by pushing of the edge of the lock mechanism.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
tight but not too tight. i think the TSB has it listed
 

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i also want to know do you have to do thsi while its in the engine? or oyu take it out? do that method then but it back into the engine.. iam confused with that part
 

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No the engine doesnt need to be jacked up.

For the plunger you must dissengage the teeth from the shaft by pushing of the edge of the lock mechanism.

do you have to do this method while it is in the engine? or take it out do it then put it back in the engine cause iam very confused at this part
 

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I made the simple mistake of dropping the broken piece down inside by the crank and chain. I wonder if it went into the oil pan ( I hope so) because I couldnt find it.
 

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I made the simple mistake of dropping the broken piece down inside by the crank and chain. I wonder if it went into the oil pan ( I hope so) because I couldnt find it.
I was working on lift bolt replacement in my garage and did the exact same thing. That's when I called the tow truck and sent it to Toyota. Nifty, eh?
 

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I started the motor up and ran it for about 5 miles. No issues so far. To much of a hassle to get it out. If it fell into the oil pan then its staying there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
you might get lucky and it will come out on your next oil change
 

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I put a filter in front of the first oil change and it didnt come out. Its been over 3,000 miles with 2 oil changes and I havent had any issues so its staying there until I need to rebuild the motor.
 

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If you have any check engine lights get those fixed 1st or your ECU may deactivate your lift.
 

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Anything as little as leaving a sensor unpluged will kill your lift. Not saying thats your issue but you need to look at the code your getting.
 
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