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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not that this will stop the seemingly endless stream of questions regarding how to build a NA (Naturally Aspirated) 7th Gen, but here you are - this is the recipie and order that makes sense. Feel free to ask logical questions and make any relevant suggestions

If you have a GT, buy a GTS or swap in a 2ZZ. It will make more power stock than your GT will with $8K in mods

OK - now that we have that established - here is the rest of the formula. The dollar amount represents a rough estimate of the total amount you will have to sink into the car to get to that point.

Daily Driver $50 - $3500
Step 1 - Injen CAI (AEM or E-bay w/ Blue bomber mod if you don't intend to continue to step 5 and beyond.)
Step 2- Exhaust - Magnaflow - RSR, something free flowing. TRD is not free flowing.
Step 3 - DD Performance Research Intake manifold with Q45 Throttle Body
Step 4 - Ceramic coated PPE race header with NO cat.
If you can't afford PPE then Ceramic coated ported stock header with decat
Step 5 - Lightweight flywheel


Weekend Warrior $3500 - $5500
Step 6 - Power FC w/ higher rev limit
Step 7 - Cams - piper stage 3s.
Ferrea or MWR valves and springs
Circuitworx oil pump gear
Underdrive pulley on alternator

Entry level race spec $5500- $9500
Step 8 - Ported & polished head
Bored out throttle body port matched to intake manifold
DD performance Research short runner Intake manifold port matched to head
Header port matched to head
Mahle 12.3:1 pistons
Polydyn or Swain ceramic coating on underside of head and valves & top of piston
Polydyn oil dispersant on crank and rods
A/C delete
Underdrive on water pump
Injectors
Fuel Pump
MWR bearings
Head and block studs
Crower rods (lighter than stock)

Serious Race spec $9500 - $16,500
Step 8 - Custom Race spec Intake manifold (ITBs optional)
Carillo rods
lightened crank
13.0:1 or higher CR wiseco pistons
Darton / MWR sleeved block
Custom CAI / air delivery system

Pro race / Baller
Step 9 - MWR Dry Sump
Lighweight clutch disc and pressure plate
Electric Power Steering conversion
Custom Electric water pump
Titanium Valves, retainers & keepers
Titanium Rods
Custom race header with Burns collector and straight through titanium exhaust or open non merge header
 

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00 MRS - 2ZZ NA
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The Ebay CAI/Boosted2.0 Ported Header/Ebay Exhaust (with or without resonator) will all cost under $800 versus going with the more brand name oriented setup that grows to just about $2,000.

:)

Where would the street manifold you're making go? Stage 2?

Nice thread!!! But here's the big question...will we be able to hit 200 whp at stage 2 instead of stage 6? :rofl:
 

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Is there a known possible destroke for the 2zz?

and something to note... removing the A/C from the car just removes weight. It's not really a hp stealer unless your compressor is seized. the pully will freewheel as if it were a second idler pulley unless you have the A/C activated and the clutch engaged. Also, Even if it were activated with the A/C on max, It would deactivate on WOT.
 

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Is there a known possible destroke for the 2zz?
why would you want to destroke the motor?? There is a balance you need to keep...Keep in mind you're moving a car...you need some torque, believe it or not
 

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Step 2- Exhaust - Magnaflow - RSR, something free flowing. TRD is not free flowing.
Care to explain a little bit? I thought TRD was a decent exhaust?
 

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would you know how much roughly hp would be if you did all the way to step 6?
190-200 WHP properly tuned
The Ebay CAI/Boosted2.0 Ported Header/Ebay Exhaust (with or without resonator) will all cost under $800 versus going with the more brand name oriented setup that grows to just about $2,000.

Where would the street manifold you're making go? Stage 2?

Nice thread!!! But here's the big question...will we be able to hit 200 whp at stage 2 instead of stage 6? :rofl:
I am aware of the pricing differences - hence the price spread.

Street manifold isn't on there because it doesn't exist yet. When it does we will see. If it works well enough with the stock ECU will determine its placement.

200 WHP at stage 2? What exactly have you been smoking? :D
and something to note... removing the A/C from the car just removes weight. It's not really a hp stealer unless your compressor is seized. the pully will freewheel as if it were a second idler pulley unless you have the A/C activated and the clutch engaged. Also, Even if it were activated with the A/C on max, It would deactivate on WOT.
Removing the AC dies add power - its been proven on a dyno. You still have to spend energy to spin the pulley on the AC unit even if the A/C is not running. Additionally removing the condenser slightly improves the cooling ability of the radiator.
All that with the stock clutch!!?? lol! Not that it can't handle N/A power but it grabs so softly ..
I'm talking about power production ONLY - not drivetrain or suspension or anything. If you want to talk abotu putting it to the ground then yes, uprated clutch, LSD, light wheels, better tires, etc would all be good choices. But this thread is simply about power production.
now how much of this will be pointless if you decide to go turbo or s/c?
that's what i'd like to know (which stuff on the list i can go with that i can still use on the turbo)
The ONLY thing that is pointless for turbo is higher compression pistons
I thought TRD was a decent exhaust?
It is a decent exhaust at the 160-170 WHP level. Above 170 you really want something less restrictive. It will of course be louder - thats the tradeoff with exhaust. Power = noise. (Noise does not always = power though)
 

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So a lighter flywheel DOES add power then?

There was talk recently on a thread about flywheel being useless (in terms of power and speed)
 

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So a lighter flywheel DOES add power then?

There was talk recently on a thread about flywheel being useless (in terms of power and speed)
Id doesn't ADD power - it takes less away. The flywheel is mass that the engine needs to use energy to accelerate. The more mass the engine needs to move the less power is ultimately available from any given power stroke. Lighter flywheels allow faster acceleration. Same holds true for underdriving or eliminating various accessories.

Is the decat really a must? How much would the trade-off be if I chose not to decat, with the ported stock header?
Nothing is a MUST. Decat is worth 5 HP at I/H/E level. Its worth even more when you add in ECU, cams, head work, etc. Its a flow restriction and flow = power.
 

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i thought you couldn't use a ppe race header with a turbo?
can you also answer why the ppe header for the 00 won't work with the 03+?
i wanted to get a ppe header for my 00, but it'd be pointless if i traded my celi for a 05 celi.

or is it possible to modify it to work right?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i thought you couldn't use a ppe race header with a turbo?
can you also answer why the ppe header for the 00 won't work with the 03+?
i wanted to get a ppe header for my 00, but it'd be pointless if i traded my celi for a 05 celi.

or is it possible to modify it to work right?
Correct - but you can easily take the header off and sell it - high compression pistons are a royal pain in the rear to replace.

The 03+ uses an air injection system - the PPE header is not equipped with the distribution pipe to make that system functional unless you custom order it like Kortik did.
 

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so cold air intakes would require the bb mod, is this with or without a cell? and whats the story about short rams, i have a KN short ram and it never gave me a cell. would i be loosing power if i dont do the bb mod?

the power FC would work well with any intake bb mod or not right?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
so cold air intakes would require the bb mod, is this with or without a cell? and whats the story about short rams, i have a KN short ram and it never gave me a cell. would i be loosing power if i dont do the bb mod?

the power FC would work well with any intake bb mod or not right?
The BB mod sucks for making power, but the larger diameter custom or Injen CAI really require a tuneable ECU to avoid bogging. If you never intend to install a tuneable ecu then the BB mod or AEM are the way to go.

Short rams are what they are. They tend to suck plenty of hot air from the engine bay and a lot of them have issues with proper metering of air due to the MAF's proximity to the bend in the intake. That being said, no, the BB mod will probably not make more power for you unless your fuel trims are really bad at the moment.
 

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What would you say is the best performing exhaust that would still let your mom ride in the car with you occasionally? Last I was reading TRD seemed to be the best to get some performance but not be a cop magnet, but does one of the higher flowing exhausts at least damp some sound?

And I'm assuming the decat is only for states with no emissions tests, right?
 

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What would you say is the best performing exhaust that would still let your mom ride in the car with you occasionally? Last I was reading TRD seemed to be the best to get some performance but not be a cop magnet, but does one of the higher flowing exhausts at least damp some sound?

And I'm assuming the decat is only for states with no emissions tests, right?
TRD is probably the best for a quiet ride, although Magnaflow is not horrible. RSR and the straight through stuff is all very loud, but this thread is about making power NA. NA power is loud. End of story.

Decat is not legal anywhere except for racing applications. Same thing with the Power FC. The decat is illegal, cheap and makes power. You make the decisions from there - I'm not your conscience, I'm a gearhead.
 
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