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This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
I think you should do some more research.
 

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lol no. E153 has long gears which would make the 1ZZ even slower and your 170tq is totally off the rockers as is your 1/4 time.
 

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This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
Has 1 post guys. Must be trolling
 

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Daddy Daycare
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This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
A stock 1ZZ makes 128 lb-ft of peak torque. You will not be adding anywhere close to 40 lb-ft of torque on a N/A 1.8 liter engine with those mods to bring it to 170. No offense but what you are saying sounds like the typical ricer math of summing up numbers for CAI/Exhaust/pulley etc. It doesn't quite work that way.
 

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you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water ,
No way on the torque. As for the WHP, welcome to having a stock GT-S with 500$ of mods! Plus the 2zz is made much stronger and efficient from the start.

but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
No way. Low 13 is build N/A 2zz territory.

Good luck!
 

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This has been bugging me for a long time, there is nothing wrong with the 1zz motor, in many ways it is better than the 2zz. People always think that horsepower is what makes the motor, or the car fast, smh, trust me when I say that if you want good N/A power you can get it from the 1zz, do a tranny swap to an e153, with a light weight flywheel, put in your standard CAI, go header back with 2.5 " piping mandrel bent, cat delete and no muffler, do your pulleys and upgrade your valve springs, retainers and such, you will have around 170 to 175 hp and you will also have around 170 tq not only will you blow the 2zz out of the water , but you will run 1/4 times in the mid to low 13's
I use to own a GT. I had intake/exhaust/header, plus Crower stage 2, spring and retrainer. it was a waste of money!!!! AND I had a custom 2zz intake manifold fitted on my 1zz. FEELS strong, but not as fast as what you said.

NOW, i have a GTS. Intake, exhaust, and header alone feels a hell lot faster then what i use to drive.

GTS FTW :)
 

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Discussion Starter #213

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Daddy Daycare
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I use to own a GT. I had intake/exhaust/header, plus Crower stage 2, spring and retrainer. it was a waste of money!!!! AND I had a custom 2zz intake manifold fitted on my 1zz. FEELS strong, but not as fast as what you said.

NOW, i have a GTS. Intake, exhaust, and header alone feels a hell lot faster then what i use to drive.

GTS FTW
It didn't help you with the art of quoting though. I still don't know how you managed to pull it off and quote me saying the stuff that the other guy said.
 

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So what should be bought first... Dd performance IM or stage 3 cams with valves springs and retainers ??? I'm in the market for either but I want both in the future but I can only get one first haha.
 

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Daddy Daycare
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First would be a standalone ECU (if you don't have one yet) as both of those mods would need proper tuning to take advantage of what they offer. Once you have the ECU it won't matter which one you get first.
 

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First would be a standalone ECU (if you don't have one yet) as both of those mods would need proper tuning to take advantage of what they offer. Once you have the ECU it won't matter which one you get first.
Just bought a Pfc sooo ok yeah either one is fine, I'm probably going to go with the cams and stuff first :)
 

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I imagine they'll be easier to find than a DDPR IM.
 
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