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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
can you explain why not? just curious thats all.
the chemicals in green coolant are hard on the componets. Even if the bottle says safe for toyota, Red is what you should use. There is a reason that Toyotas come with red coolant
 

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Work Done, Sexy Time.
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Smaay, you forgot pose like a greased up pimp in front of your work for pics after you're finished. :chuckles: Great stuff for those that haven't done it .
 

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Nice write up. I do basically the same thing with a few variations.

1 - I don't pull the hub - I simply unbolt the 2 17mm bolts and one 17mm nut from the lower ball joint to the lower control arm and pop the control arm down and away. This way the camber settings don't change, and I also don't need to take the abs line or brake lines loose - simply popping that lower control arm gives enough range of motion to get the axles in and out.

2 - I set the A/C compressor up on the strut tower. Less chance of scratching the paint that way.

3 - Coolant is both poisonous and carcinogenic. But much more importantly is has a nasty aftertaste despite the sweet smell. I don't wrap my lips around the coolant bottle if I can avoid it - I simply let the vehicle drain longer and use a wide-mouth drain pan. You can also put a small hose on the coolant block drain (petcock) on the back of the engine block if you want the engine to drain more fully prior to popping the hoses and T stat.

4 - I purchased a specialty tool for serpentine belt tensioners that uses a ultra slimline 6 point socket instead of wrenches. As a result I don't strip out tensioners.

5 - I leave the harness on the engine. I simply pop up the 2 fusebox sections and disconnect the harness there and lay it back onto the engine - it is much quicker and the engine comes out more cleanly that way IMO.

6 - I don't remove the injector rail - I disconnect it at the quick disconnect back by the firewall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
2 - I set the A/C compressor up on the strut tower. Less chance of scratching the paint that way.
it can reach that far?

6 - I don't remove the injector rail - I disconnect it at the quick disconnect back by the firewall.
the head was going to come off, gets things out of the way
 

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motor noob
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great write up... unfortunately the guy who rebuilt it last time wasnt the smartest guy... well at least its getting done right this time. Dude i always wear an in n out shirt when working on my **** XD. ill hit you up tomorrow dude. Thanks again!
 

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Lurking06 Celica07 Join08
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Thank you so much for taking the time to do this... awesome write up man!

As far as removing the belt and moving the tensioner to get the new belt on or off.. I had a problem with that because of the stupid bolt ... I kinda made my own method and it worked so easily.

This is most likely the easiest and fastest way of getting the belt off...

Time needed: 1-2 minutes to get the belt tension off.
People needed: 2 preferably.
Tool: wedge type hammer as shown (not sure of exact name)


Ok.. you tried the stupid stupid stupid hex bolt (that isnt actually a bolt) and you cant get your tension to budge right?.. Now your probably stripped it.. or its nearly stripped.. Surely it cant last more than a few belt\ changes.

Well, Here ya go.

1.First thing is to take the plastic thing off. to gain access to the belt area (duh)

2. Slide in the wedge type hammer in there with the flatter end facing towards the fire wall and have about half of the flat end rest on the frame and the other half on the bottom of the tensioner piston.




3. Now stand in the front of the car and pull down on the hammer so that you press the piston up. While your pulling down on the hammer , you cause the piston to go up and the belt will lose just a bit of tension and thats when your handy man\ woman can slip the belt off the alternator.

The pulling down of the hammer would be the same as pushing the wrench on the hex spot .. exept that you wont ever strip that hex thing , your just pushing it at a different spot!


*heres what it will look like if you just let the hammer go while its in place between the frame and piston*



:thumbup:
 

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good write up, will come in handy some day
 

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Beauty. Wow that actually doesn't look too bad at all. I guess you'd use the same method to pull just the tranny as well?

Smaay what kind of hoist u using??
 

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4 - I purchased a specialty tool for serpentine belt tensioners that uses a ultra slimline 6 point socket instead of wrenches. As a result I don't strip out tensioners.
Any chance of a pic of it? IMHO getting the belt back on (especially with a supercharger) is the tricky bit. I'm currently using a 6-point socket (12 points eat those crappy lugs for breakfast) with a short (~14") 3/8" drive bar, but I'm a bit worried that the wiggle required to get the socket on in the first place is rounding the nut.
 

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motor noob
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you could always go the ****ty way if you do strip it out. cut head of bolt off. drill and re-thread :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
the belt tensioner isnt designed that way. its not really a bolt, its a bolt head shape. once its stripped its done, its cast with the tensioner
 

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New Mexico Representative
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This would have saved me some "oops" moments when i swapped out my motor lol.
 

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i have 2 question first of all i am a girl working on my car the first time i just replaced the water pump on my 00 gts and where do i get the red coolant? and 2nd i diconnected the lower rad hose to drain my coolant but im scared the is still some in it...barely any drained and i know it should have alot more but my car did overheat so i dunno if it flushed out on the road or not but i want to be sure ..where is the petcock is it on the bottom of the radiator? and how do i get coolant out of there i know its a dumb question but i got this far on my own and figured id just ask thanks!

p.s good write up i am actually taking out a gt motor that i want to sell IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED out of my 2nd celica i bought w no title on sunday!
 

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motor noob
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THanks for all your help man. Cant wait for instal pix. or the test drive after :)
 

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This thread has inspired me to give pulling my motor myself a go. I was worried I'd bitten off more than I could chew but this thread will help enormously. Thanks guys, Smaay, you're an absolute legend! :bowdown:
 

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the GT axles do not have an internal snap ring holding the CV together and it will come apart. It will need to be tried out of the transmission
Can someone explain to me in detail exactly how to pull the axle off the tranny (driver side)? if it can't be pull out like the GTS.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
use a prybar between the transmission and the axle. find a good pivot spot. then have someone hold the axle straight and turn it while you try to pop it out with the bar
 

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Thank you sir, Ur steps on "how to" is great!
 
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